Paloma published her book on Amazon!

Before we left last year, Rachel challenged me to be the girls’ teacher. I didn’t know how to teach middle schoolers, so I gave them a grad school assignment: pick a topic you care about and write a book. Both girls did it! Anika’s book tells bedtime stories and poems about animals, and Paloma’s tells the stories of many of the children she met around the world.

Paloma gets today’s prize for “really leaning in.” Last year, she learned page layout, typesetting, and how to edit your piece 15 times until it is good. I’m so proud that she just self-published Sharing The Luck on Amazon, and is brave enough to share it with the world.

I love you, Paloma – YOU GO GIRL!

Around the World in 303 Days: A Report of Global Technology Use

This past year I traveled with my family to 25 countries across 6 continents. In each place we visited, we cooked, ate, shopped, attended school and spoke together about daily life. I talked to people about their technology use and learned how people really use our products around the world.

In this talk, I make bold claims like “No one uses Google in the developing world” and tell you why. Then I provide counterexamples, like why a Cambodian Tuk-Tuk driver streams YouTube to his customers in Siem Reap. I talk about what everyone was doing with their phones, and how infrastructure affected people’s lives in different places. I also talk about what it was like to travel at an insane pace with my family.

This Year…

At the end of our trip, we captured some reflections, including some advice we might give to another family considering a long trip.

Paloma

This year has shown me how many was there are to live, and we are only living one of them. I know I will remember seeing children everywhere in different living conditions living such different lives all over the world, but they are all happy and playful, some more than others. Children pick up on their culture more strongly than adults so observing them shows me more about that country’s culture. I hope I will clearly remember all of the experiences I have had this year, because I will never have those same experiences again.

I think that the things that worked were:

  1. The busy schedule (at least for me) worked, but we took such a long break from europe and I think once you are in leisure mode, you’re stuck.
  2. Visiting local villages
  3. Cooking classes
  4. Playing with babies
  5. Packing the countries with activities so we don’t have to be in a particular country for a long time
  6. The break in spain was good; maybe the rest of europe is optional, didn’t add much to the trip.
  7. I want to spend less time in asia, more time in africa and south america.
  8. I love passion fruits!!

What are you grateful for about this year? What has it brought to you, and what do you hope to remember?

  1. The time with family
  2. The ability to see so many different ways to live
  3. The babies and children all over the world are always excited to connect
  4. We visited hard countries, ones I may never visit again
  5. It showed me that the things in the news are not on another planet. They are right in front of us, waiting for people to help change them.

If a friend were going to do a trip like this and asked for your advice, what should they do the same?

  1. The packed schedule (although mom didn’t like it, i did)
  2. The cooking classes
  3. The local activities
  4. Visiting developing countries
  5. Do the exact school year; leave summer open

What should they do differently?

  1. Don’t go to Europe; the break in Spain was good though. Once you are in leisure mode, you’re kind of stuck
  2. Less time in Asia—more time in South America and Africa.
  3. More exercise throughout the countries (hikes, biking, running,) The gyms aren’t the most fun

Anika

What are you grateful for about this year?

I am grateful for so many things. One of them is my family.

  1. Paloma. Annoying, catastrophic Paloma. She has been equivalent to my punching bag this year. Any anger I have, any things I have to say, I hurdle them at her, and she catches them with not very widely open arms. She has also defended me against anything my parents had to say.
  2. Dad. As the financier, he should have a mention anyways. I want to thank him for getting us out there, even though I didn’t want him to. Also for the amazing activities and accommodations that we have had.
  3. Mom. The complainer in the family. I want to thank her for listening to my complaints. She has been a great advocate for me as well, and I am grateful for that.
  4. Pirate. She is still back at home, and I miss her. I want to thank her for being my cheerleader, even in my head. 2 months until I see Pirate. Pirate wouldn’t complain.
  5. Sam. Our travel agent has helped us in so many ways. From booking plane tickets to getting us a spot at Machu Picchu’s best hotel, she has been a lot of help.
  6. Malar. She has helped me a lot with my writing skills this year. She looked over almost every piece I published to the blog, and gave helpful critiques.
  7. My friends. All of them. They have chatted on the computer with me hundreds of times, and kept me present to myself.
  8. Kevin Bacon. Thanks for bringing me a smile.

If a friend were going to do a trip like this and asked for your advice, what should they do the same?

  1. They should use packing cubes. A travelers greatest weakness is lack of space. This way, you can have a small bag you can carry with you and isn’t too heavy. Trust me. It helps.
  2. Get a small suitcase. This way, you can carry it on the plane, and it is not too heavy to be unpleasant to carry.
  3. Have an extra cube of emergency candies, because you will need them.
  4. Bring your own small pillow. I brought one, and used it at airplanes, airports, hotels, tents, and so many other places. Make sure to bring an extra case for one as well. One to put your head on, and one to get dirt on.
  5. Have at least one small backpack in the family. This way, you can use it to carry stuff like groceries, where it would be inconvenient to bring a big one.

What should they do differently?

  1. I can’t think of much that went wrong this year, but if you are a kid, get in the action early. Then you can help plan and go to the places you want.
  2. Skim over the plan from day-to-day to make sure you aren’t going to places you don’t want to without you knowing. (I have been to way too many religious sites this year.)
  3. Go in more of a pattern, instead of hopping from Asia to Africa to Australia and back to Asia again.
  4. Plan at least a year in advance. Then you can make sure to go to all of the places you want to go, and probably can get cheaper prices for them too.
  5. If you are doing a whole year, leave towards the beginning of the summer, so when you get back you have lots of time to play with your friends.

Hayes

I’m grateful for…

  1. It felt like forever at the time, but 10 months is short in hindsight. Thank goodness for photographs and writing along the way! At this moment, 2 days from the end of the trip, I’m so happy we did it.
  2. Having a travel agent was awesome. Expensive, but worth it not to have to figure out all the details, get to do a lot of exciting things, and probably do 2x or 3x the quantity of learning than we could have done ourselves. It was also extremely helpful to have someone else to “blame” when things were tough. I think if I were the target of every complaint it would have been a lot more difficult emotionally.
  3. I love my girls and my wife even more (is that possible?). I’m very grateful for the time with them, and to have gotten to know them all a bit better. They are great people and I’m proud to be a part of this family.
  4. I’m glad I have had them work on year-long-projects. I hope they take their books further, either working with a publisher or self-publishing them before the summer is over. I hope it has helped them learn more and remember more, as well as find some of their personal passions.
  5. I’m feeling a bit nervous about going back home! I have to find a job. I’m not sure yet what I want.

I’d do differently…

  1. I’m not sure if this would have been possible in our case, but it would be better to have had more time to plan.
  2. I would have liked to spend more time with friends around the world.
  3. It would have been a good contrast to spend a fair amount of time in one location (like 2 months contiguous) to make friends, be forced to assimilate local customs, etc.
  4. While the travel agent was wonderful, the value was not always 100% evident. Sometimes it seemed I could get something similar by choosing the top rated everything on tripadvisor. They do have local guides and drivers who are awesome, and know what is available and what it’s actually like, so that was a valuable service. Because they prebook things, they also helped get things like permits with short notice, which would have been impossible alone. They also save a lot of time and decision-making, so I don’t really have regrets here. 
  5. I’d add more group trips with other families where possible. We had a lot of very personal, and often private, tour experiences. On balance this was better, because it let us focus on our interests and not feel like we were part of a herd. But it got lonely, and groups, especially with other families, would have been nice for the social interactions. It would have been interesting to add in a Backroads tour or two during the school holidays, for example.

Rachel

What makes me grateful about this year? What has it brought me, and what do I hope to remember?

I am grateful for the time with Hayes, Paloma and Anika. I am grateful for the incredibly rich and intense learning. I am grateful that I made it home alive. I am grateful for all of the time with friends and family. I am grateful to have a reprise from our life in Palo Alto and the opportunity to witness so many different ways to live.

I think this has brought me  greater awareness of my children – Paloma is alive exploring the world, connecting with people, and strategizing hacks to make people’s lives easier. Anika loves animals. Hayes is an amazing man who has an idea and can put it into action and follow through at a very high level for an extended period of time. It was so hard for me and yet I am in awe of how much we did and how rich each experience was. I understand world religions better. I understand the desperation for sufficient supplies of clean water in every community. I understand that tribalism is one of the core drivers of the human experience. I better understand how incredibly difficult it is to be an adolescent girl in most places in the world and how lucky we are to be alive right now right here – even in such divided times.

I hope to remember how alive Paloma looks when interacting with people all over the world. I hope to remember what rock star dad Hayes has been to the girls and how generous he was with me when I was so uncomfortable. I hope to remember how lucky I am to be alive right now right here.

Things I learned this year

People have asked me things like “what were the big ‘ah-hah’s’?” Or, “any big take-aways?” As part of my reflections on the year, I wrote down some things which seem like “big learnings.” There were a lot of them so stay tuned for a few different posts about Politics, Empires, Infrastructure, Economics, Religion and Human Rights, Technology in Developing Countries, and some good Books. It will be interesting to look back on these later and see how many I still agree with. 🙂

I hope you enjoy!

Politics

Communism is dead. While some countries still claim to be communist (China, Vietnam, Cambodia) they have market economies, so it’s not clear what communism really means there. It seems to mean that they have a big, deep totalitarian government that is involved in all aspects of life.

The Khmer Rouge still runs Cambodia. It’s really hard to get rid of bad people.

Corruption is everywhere – it’s just a matter of degree. When the richest people are in government, you know the government is corrupt. When the cops demand bribes instead of enforcing laws, you know it’s bad.

Government really matters. When I was younger I used to ignore it and think it didn’t matter. I was wrong. Different kinds of governments can really make life easier or harder for people. Taxes are one thing, sure. So is corruption. But it’s different when people disappear and no one can say anything. People live with anxiety and fear in such places (Vietnam, Cambodia, South Africa, Egypt). It’s not a nice feeling to have all the time.

Democracy is hard work. In Egypt a few people independently told me they don’t think Egyptians are ready for democracy, because they don’t know what it is and how to vote intelligently. Their recent democratic elections led to radical islamists coming in to power and trying to change the government to be religious and totalitarian. They said Egyptians should be educated in democracy before they have the freedom to vote. \\ In South Africa someone told me that South Africans don’t know what freedom means, and that’s why things are so broken there. Many people think it means “I get things for free” like free houses and free welfare. They don’t understand that it means that people can choose their own (economic) path, but they are accountable for their own actions.

A secular government is really, really different than a religious one. Religious governments use religious mantras to justify anything they wish to do – and because of this, religion makes the leaders too powerful. Secular governments seem to control fewer aspects of life, whereas religious ones want to control all aspects of life. This becaume clear when we visited Turkey: We expected it to be similar to Egypt or the middle east, but instead it was much more similar to the US or Western Europe, with a secular democracy – even though they are 99.8% muslim. Granted, they have their problems with President Erdogan seizing power in the press and the courts, and eroding the checks and balances, but because they have a notion of checks and balances, and the culture seems much more European as a result.

Western democracies seem to struggle over a central tension between equality and liberty. Equality, at its most basic, means everyone has the same thing. Liberty, at its most basic, means everyone may choose their own path. In some ways they are contradictory, and this may underlie a lot of political disagreement in the West.

Empires

China is taking over SE Asia. China seems to be in control of Vietnam, and Vietnam seems to be in control of Cambodia. They have already claimed Tibet, Taiwan, Hong Kong, and are rapidly expanding into many islands of the South China sea, including ones that used to belong to Vietnam. (Vietnam is not even complaining – perhaps they owe favors from when the Chinese armed the Vietnamese communists during the civil war.) Bhutan is afraid of China, and has allied with India to have some protection.

Chinese tourism is completely taking off – it’s huge. There is a lot of middle-class disposable income in China now and people are traveling more. Chinese are not interested in supporting local economies – they want familiarity and home comforts. So they bring their own tour companies, their own cooks and restaurants, their own chinese-run hotels, etc. The locals make little money from this arrangement. This may be a sign of China as an upcoming economic superpower that wants to bring Chinese culture throughout the world.

India is big, disorganized, but powerful. They have a lot of food, and lot of people – 1.4 Billion right now! That’s a lot of “human capital.”

Language reveals history. Why do we speak English in the US? Because the British conquered our land. Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Kenya, and India also speak English because the British invaded those lands at one point and made people there learn English (and sometimes killed people who didn’t). Similarly, Brazilians and Uruguayan speak Portuguese because Portugal invaded them in the past and forced them to speak a new tongue, or die. Central and South Americans who speak Spanish do it because the Spaniards forced their ancestors to, or were Spaniards themselves.

I think the Spanish were the most brutal of the European conquerors. The Inquisition came to the Americas with the glory of God and proceeded to massacre millions of natives, stole their gold, their land, their food, and their history from them. They left the Spanish language behind though, and lots of churches. The British built their empire differently, using businesses and private capital to extend the empire (although the crown often chose to step in later). They were not always so nice either, for example in the opium wars the British navy attacked China in order to keep opium legal in China and keep British opium businesses alive – even though addiction was basically an epidemic there and the government really wanted to do the right thing for their people.

Genghis Khan, who I always knew as a brutal warlord, is celebrated as the hero and founder of Mongolia. He united the tribes in Mongolia, and then within 25 years he created an empire controlling half of Asia (it took Rome 350 years to get as big). In empire-building, expanding through fear seems to be faster than through influence.

Infrastructure

If a country can make enough food, they are OK. Everything else is secondary. (In part this is because having food requires having water.) In countries that were agriculturally rich, like Vietnam and India, people live with a certain ease and comfort, despite worries they may have about politics. People are worried about politics almost everywhere.

I used to think infrastructure was king of boring. Now that I see how many people live without things like water, toilets, electricity and internet, I appreciate it a lot more. It seemed to me that the priorities for infrastructure went something like this:

  1. Shelter and clothing.
  2. Food. If you have food, you are ok. If not, you may have a revolution.
  3. Water (need this to make food). If it’s not clean people survive but suffer. People with bad water will not revolt (they may be too weak to revolt).
  4. People. Friends, community.
  5. Jobs. People revolt over this too. We all need a purpose, what to contribute, and need money for the basics listed above. This is especially true in cities where people can’t live off the land (everything is imported into cities).
  6. Electricity
  7. Entertainment.
  8. Education. Low on the list because it really matters, but people are often sort of lazy and would rather watch TV than learn something useful.
  9. Internet. It’s still a novelty in the developing world.

When the power went off in Spain, I noticed that a modern city without electricity is quite similar to an East African village. Electricity brings light at night, a modern kitchen with things like refrigeration, time-saving devices like washer/dryers, and the internet. In rural Zimbabwe many people would have a solar panel for their cell phone and maybe a light bulb. It’s quite transformative.

Economics

Money is everywhere – it is almost like a global language. Everybody uses money, and everybody pretty much uses it in the same ways. Market economics have taken over even the few communist countries left.

The US Dollar is the king of currencies – everyone wants it and it works everywhere (some countries like Cambodia and Zimbabwe will even offer USD along with local currency in the ATM machines.)

English is “the language of trade,” as a Jordanian put it to me. It’s valuable to know English – more and better jobs are available.

In some countries money controls power. In other countries power controls money.

The central concept in modern economics is growth. This concept has enabled investment capital to give rise to startup companies, the stock markets, and the population explosion since the industrial revolution. Countries that prioritize growth are rewarded with foreign investment and trade.

Despite the global success of market economics, some older traditions still hold. In East Africa, most people measure wealth in cows. Dowries are paid in cows (and there are conversion rates for different kinds of cows to dollars). Cows have intrinsic value (milk, cheese, meat) and also can be moved to follow the changing landscapes. This has been important because weather changes demand migration. (Fun fact: the Maasai told us they own all the cows in the world – even the ones in California. Some day they will come claim them!)

Corporations are the second most powerful entities in the world, after governments. They both have the power to shape and change lots of people’s lives.

Capitalism, left unregulated, can lead to horrible outcomes such as the Atlantic slave trade. Slaves were brought to America because businesses were financing most of the European expansion and investors in Europe wanted larger profits. Free labor helps increase profits. So companies started importing lots of slaves. Africa was a big source because germs killed most of the American natives, and Africans already had an established trade of malaria-resistant slaves who survived in the tropics. This sort of thing happens because corporations’ only responsibility is to maximize profits, while human societies also value ethics and morals. The lesson is that capitalism needs some limits/regulation/balance or else some people can suffer horribly.

Religion and Human Rights

Religion is a really big organizing force all over the world. Nearly everyone seems to be religious. The Abrahamic religions (Judaism, Christianity, Islam) are all fairly similar, even though people fight over the details. Some religions, like Hinduism and Buddhism, are really different. Christianity and Islam, two “universal” religions (one god for everyone, everywhere) are competing, via proselytizing, to be the dominant religion in the world.

Lots of people mix old (often animistic) religions with newer ones: shinto + buddhism in Japan; Hinduism+old gods and spirit worship in India; Christianity and witch doctors in South Africa.

Some people, like my wife, are atheists – atheists I met either come from a liberal democratic foundation in which reason provides an ethical foundation and liberalism is the community, or from communist foundations where communism itself was viewed as the religion.

Hinduism and the caste system are alive and well in India. They support each other and they don’t seem to be going anywhere, because everyone seems to play along with the rules.

The UN has this concept that peace requires basic human rights to be fulfilled: food, clean water, jobs, education, community. When these things get disrupted, people will stop being peaceful.

People seem to be tribal everywhere. Sometimes this leads to racism. Racist governments are the worst because governments have the ability to make life horrible for certain people.

Women have few rights and little power in most of the world. They also do most of the work in most rural developing areas we visited (cook, clean, fetch water, birth and raise children, farming), and it was not uncommon to hear about husbands who were drunk or just lazy.

Human Rights, as a concept, is a liberal western invention from the enlightenment. But it’s helping the world be more peaceful, safer and healthier for a lot of people.

The Millennium Development Goals from the UN outline the basic needs everyone should have to enjoy a peaceful world. They are pretty awesome. Check them out if you haven’t.

 

Technology in Developing Countries

What people do with their phones

I asked people all over the developing world, what do you do with your phone? People everywhere use it to contact people. Phones are about people.

Every single person I spoke to mentioned Facebook, WhatsApp or Instagram as the first thing they do with their phone. Facebook owns all 3! Why these apps? They work. They work off the grid, with crappy networks, on crappy phones, and they are super pleasant to use, even when the network is unreliable.  In some places (like parts of India) Facebook is the whole technology experience. People use the Facebook Business pages for business, the friends features to support their communities. Google doesn’t matter in these places – it is more of a convenience than a necessity, and not something people think of when they think “my phone.”

I asked people, do you use Google? “Oh, yes, uncle Google!” People may use search and they probably use YouTube if they can afford the bandwidth. But in some places Google Search seemed more like a novelty, like the truth really needed to come from a human being, preferably someone you knew (and in these places sometimes YouTube was preferred to Google Search, because there was a person delivering the answer). Maps is sometimes used if there is local data (traffic is reliable many places). Many other Google products (hangouts, photos) are basically non-functional on unreliable networks. Gmail is reliable, but email is not popular compared to messaging apps like WhatsApp.

Learning with tech

When people teach “technology,” they are teaching Windows Office: MS Word, Excel, and Power Point. (I assume they are somehow getting this for free, but I’m not sure.) They may have the internet, but not know how to use it for learning. For example, most technology educators I met did not know there’s free education online with things like Khan Academy, nor do people know about or use Google Apps for Education.

Handsets + Mobile Infrastructure

People still do a lot of voice and SMS, in part because old Nokia infrastructure exists and works in rural places. Good 4G infrastructure will unlock a lot of latent markets in which people currently often own 2 phones. (Heard in Indonesia: “This is my Nokia for calls and texts – it works everywhere – and this is my Instagram phone.”)

People do business with their phones everywhere. Sending money around is part of this, and even in southeast Africa where smartphones are rare, people exchange money with GSM codes on networks like Ecocash. Most communication there is phone/SMS but I can imagine Facebook may take over as they are doing in places like India.

The prices of internet varies widely. In Cambodia, it’s $1 / month for unlimited 4G. In Kenya the prices are equivalent to the USA, so no one can afford it. (People have satellite TV for $20 / month in Africa, though.)

People don’t know about Android, and that Google made that. The phone comes from the hardware manufacturer: people never say I have an Android phone, they say things like, I have this cheap Chinese phone… someday I want an iPhone because they are more reliable.

No one seems to be making the “Honda of cell phones,” i.e. something targeting consumers that is reliable and well designed, which “just works” and which doesn’t need to be replaced after 3 years. I think there’s probably a big opportunity here, if a company can get the runway needed (probably 7-10 years to become profitable).

 

Good Books

I learned a few interesting things from these books this year. 

I read Sapiens: A Brief History of Humankind three times this year. It’s amazing. If you enjoyed reading these recent posts, read this book.

Guns, Germs, and Steel: The Fates of Human Societies is good too. A bit slow and academic, so skim it after the first chapter(s).

The Righteous Mind: Why Good People are Divided by Politics and Religion, is also good. Read the beginning and ending, and skim the middle.

Also, my daughters are both writing books this year. Paloma’s is about the experiences of children she met around the world this year. Anika’s is a series of bedtime stories and poems about animals of the world. I can’t wait for them to be published!

 

Favorites, Least Favorites, and Why (Ten Months in Review)

Favorite Country & why

Hayes New Zealand. Beautiful, friendly, educated, and relaxed. And everything works.
Rachel New Zealand because the air was clean, the people were sane, and the land is striking.
Anika I cannot name my favorite country, so many of them were so amazing, but here are my top 3.

1. New Zealand – The first place we went was New Zealand. It was amazing in so many ways. The air was clean, the people so nice, lots of animals, and I would most definitely recommend this to anyone and everyone who loves travel. This country was very easy to travel in for a family, and by yourself because it is western, but also because every place you can go there is amazing. You can’t do New Zealand wrong.

2. Spain – We stayed in Spain for 1 month. Most of the time was in Sevilla. I loved being able to walk everywhere I wanted to go, and get everything there. Part of why I loved Spain was the amazing houses we stayed in as well.

3. Kenya – The first day we were in Kenya we were in the city. This was the only time we were there. I love animals, and we went to a baby elephant orphanage, and a giraffe sanctuary, so this was very special to me. For the rest of the time, we were in the desert, on a safari, and I saw more animals there than I probably had in my whole life put together. I am not sure if I would recommend Kenya as a country altogether because I’ve seen so little of it, but it is still one of my favorites.

A few honorable mentions:

Israel – Isreal was smack in the middle of our year. This is my second favorite country for food, and also one of my favorites for the people, experiences, and the time I had there in general.

France – I have been here twice in my life, both times to Paris. This one is on the list because my friend Sierra joined me, and we had a stellar time.

Turkey – I was actually a little bit scared of going to Turkey. There are so many articles stating against Turkey, however, I was very pleasantly surprised. It had lovely weather, people, and the best ice cream ever! (Maras.)

India – I am actually not listing this one because it is my favorite country. I loved the experiences there, but it was a bit too crowded and quick for me. This one is for the food. My favorite cuisine is Indian, through and through, and I loved the food there.

Columbia – Christmas! This was one of the reasons I chose Cambodia. I did not love the country that much, but this holiday, along with the arrival of Ella, Matilda, and their parents is what made it onto the list.

Paloma My favorite countries have been:

New Zealand – It is beautiful with hills and kind people, and they speak english!

India – It is so different from anywhere I have ever been. People are malnourished, and unhealthy, but they still work and go to school as much as possible. The food is also amazing! It is colorful, and bustling, and I didn’t realize how much I enjoyed it until we left.

Israel – The people are so kind, and are always coming up with new inventions. The food is also amazing, and I love the falafels and hummus.

Kenya – We went on a safari and it was amazing! We saw so much wildlife, and I enjoyed driving around in the jeep seeing baby elephants and lions, and it was so vast so I could just enjoy the country without making small talk.

Spain – I loved the food, and the people don’t bother to speak English with you, or even try. They like their language and aren’t about to go out of their way to speak someone else’s language. Also, the AirBnB we stayed in the first two weeks felt very much like a home, and I got used to it. I also love the jamon iberico and the manchego cheese with membrillo.

Least Favorite Country & why

Hayes Mongolia. Amazing people, but it’s sort of a lost land without much there. I am quite glad we went to the Golden Eagle Festival, for no other reason than the photos are amazing. I also loved how connected people are with their land, horses and birds, and how trusting they were with complete strangers to share their animals, and even have us in their homes. It felt like a lost tradition of hospitality and trust.
Rachel Egypt because I never felt completely safe.
Anika Egypt – Not many of the countries this year were ones I didn’t love, however, Egypt did not fit this description. The people were nice, but the experience I had was not amazing. Since there is a war in one of the places we went, the government requires that when out, we had to have two bodyguards on us at all times. It is very uncomfortable to have people with a gun in their holster in your car, but also it was dry their, in the environment, and alot of what we did. I did really enjoy learning about the history and seeing the runes, however, so as this is my least favorite, I still loved it.
Paloma Mongolia – Although I know I will never visit Mongolia again, it was interesting to see the combination of russian and chinese. It was too smokey everywhere we went, and every warm room smelled like I was sticking my head in a bag of coal. The air pollution is terrible, and it is way too cold!

Egypt – It was boring. There were too many people guarding us at all times and it felt unsafe just because of that. The feeling in the back of my mind that part of the country was being bombed as I peacefully walked down the beach, many miles away was unnerving. It was interesting to see ancient Egypt, and I liked seeing the carvings, but it was too much of the same things, and I didn’t find any of it very interesting. I did enjoy seeing the pyramids, but just because I had been hearing of them since I was 5. I enjoyed seeing the 4,000 year old mummies in the Cairo museum.

Favorite Cooking Class & why

Hayes Vietnamese cooking on the rice paddies. Excellent food. Great teacher. Surprising to make the rice papers over the steaming pot ourselves, and I learned something about how to make bone broth soup (pho) by roasting the bones on the grill, and then rinsing them in boiling water before putting them in the stock pot.
Rachel Panna Tiger reserve because the food was delicious and the cooks were so mellow and interesting.
Anika My favorite cooking class was in Morocco. This was partly because our instructor was so kind and amazing at cooking, and also because the food was so good. The main reason why is because of the environment. We stayed at a towering castle of a house, her house, on the second floor. I shared a cozy little room with my sister, and we stayed there for three days, along with the woman who ran the cooking class and my parents. The kitchen was on the bottom floor, and that is where we cooked every day. Just a block away there was a market, and we got all of our yummy food there. Along with the homey environment, this amazing woman had a cat named Tiger. Tiger was the highlight of my time there. So this might not all be related to the cooking class, but those are the reasons why this was my favorite.
Paloma I enjoyed…

The cooking demonstration in Sarai at Toria, India, mostly because the food was so good!

The cooking class in Vietnam where we learned how to make rice noodles, a mixture of rice and water poured onto a cloth above a steamer, and then chopped.I also loved how they char the beef and vegetable before dunking them into boiling water for a few seconds to cleanse them.

The cooking class in Jordan where we made an amazing rice dish, delicious appetizers and some Jordanian drinks.

Morocco we stayed at a cooking school run by a british woman. We stayed in her home which I loved, and we shopped at the local market right outside of her house. We saw her favorite vendors and ate a goats head. (A little bit of hair in the meat!!) We learned how to make Moroccan dishes with the ingredient we had bought from the market. She taught us a little bit about Moroccan cuisine, but didn’t go on a rant about it. We also went to a goat farm where we played with baby goats and milked the goats. With the milk we made cheese which we combined with a Moroccan classic dish, a tagine. It was goat cheese and fresh herbs melted over the big fire.

Israel – We did a Druze cooking class in Israel and we made stuffed zucchini (yum!!!) and for dessert we had the best dessert of the year. It was fried outside kind of like bread, and on the inside there were two options: a goat cheese and honey filling or a nut and cinnamon filling and they were both AMAZING!

Colombia – We cooked with a michelin star chef who worked for Gordon Ramsey! We learned how to make a delicious fish soup and coconut rice, and we also got to make ceviche and learn how to break down a fish!

Least Favorite Cooking Class & why

Hayes Egyptian Nile cruise. Not a class at all. Just “watch us cook now.”
Rachel None were bad.
Anika In Egypt we went on a cruise for 5 days. It was a very large boat, and very comfortable accommodations.
Paloma Egypt – On the beach we had a very informal cooking class where we learned how to make pizza (which we already knew), french fries, and a delicious eggplant dish that was like a layered tomato lasagna.

Cape Town – We did a cooking class in a woman’s house which was fun, but it was mostly fried bread. We did go to the Persian spice store across the street which was awesome and I got powdered coconut milk.

None of the cooking classes we went to were ‘bad’ but these were not my favorite ones.

Favorite Food & why

Hayes Indian food is so delicious, and I enjoy veg food more now – and they are experts.
Rachel Californian because it is comfort food. 🙂 Also, I loved the purple potatoes of Hawaii, and all of the flavors of India and Israel.
Anika India! – Indian food had just the right amount of spicy and sweet and salty. All of the components are there, and fit into just the right places. India is also by far the best place to be a vegetarian. All of the food that has meat is amazing, but the vegetarian options blow your mind. I am not a vegetarian myself, but in order of trying not to get sick, we didn’t eat meat there. The Indian restaurants I have went to at home are also good, but if you want to get the real deal, you have to go to India.
Paloma Spain – I love the tapas! I love how there are legs of ham everywhere, and anywhere you go you can get some sliced off. I also love the combination of manchego and membrillo, a spanish favorite.

India – This may be my favorite cuisine of the year. I loved it because even if you got gas station food, it was still delicious. I love all of the spices and flavors. There is also no such thing as bad food. We had the airplane food and it was delicious!

Israel, Jordan, Egypt, Palestine – I love the Mediterranean cuisine, and how there is a perfect combination of fried falafels and fresh tomato and cucumber salad. I also love the fresh hummus and tahini, and how you can go to a market in Jerusalem and watch the tahini you buy be pressed from the sesame seed.

Least Favorite Food & why

Hayes Mongolian food – kinda heavy and boring. Egyptian desserts – waay too sweet
Rachel There is not much food that I don’t like.
Anika The worst food I have had this year is airplane food. From rotten strawberries to rock solid muffins, you can probably see why. There is usually at least one food that I like, and I usually eat most of it, even if it is bad.

A few honorable mentions:

There are two airlines that I remember that had good food. One of them was Spice Air, and another one Qantas. Neither of them were stellar, but they were good enough.

Paloma Mongolia! – Mongolian traditional foods are just fried bread, curdled cheese, salty milk, and rock hard cheese bricks. Every single traditional Mongolian food I tried was disgusting.

Favorite Activity & why

Hayes Oooh, tough one. I loved hiking in Bhutan with Anika…beautiful and good bonding time with her.
Rachel Safari in the Mara of Kenya and trekking on Maria Island in Tasmania.
Anika I cannot name one activity, but my favorites were in New Zealand. From rolling down the hill in a human sized, water filled hamster ball, to cuddling sheep, I loved everything we did there.
Paloma Cooking classes, seeing local village life, doing charity projects, playing with babies!!, and eating local food

Least Favorite Activity & why

Hayes Nile cruise. Boring, felt a bit captive. Guides were mediocre.
Rachel Visiting the Taj Mahal because the lines were long, the air was toxic, the temperature was squelching, and we had arrived late the night before only to wake very early for touring.
Anika I have a few in mind, but over all, my least favorites were the ones where we didn’t do anything. Watching tiles be made is cool, but when you are slowly being roasted in the sun, and don’t get to do anything, it is a little bit disappointing.
Paloma walking around cities.

Favorite Hotel & why

Hayes Zhiwaling in Bhutan. So beautiful and peaceful.
Rachel Boatshed in NZ and Zhiwa Ling in Bhutan.
Anika My favorites are:

New Zealand:

The Boat Shed on Waiheke Island. This accommodation was one of our firsts, and that may be part of why I loved it so much. But it was definitely also because of the nice beds, view, food, and very cute dog. It was so comfortable there, and I enjoyed it so much.

New Zealand over all had awesome accommodations. I loved pretty much every place we stayed. My 2nd and 3rd in NZ are the Fiordland Lodge, especially for their dog Mazy, and Eden House for the lovely chocolate and room, however those are not in my favorites over all.

Israel:

The Arthur hotel. The Staff were amazing, the rooms clean, the location of the hotel great, but in my opinion, the best thing about The Arthur Hotel is the food. From hummus to cinnamon challah, this breakfast makes you fall in love with Israeli food, and makes you want to stay there forever.

Paloma wildwood, nz – amazing cookies and super nice people, almost like grandparents

boatshed, nz – honeymoon place with amazing views

vietnam – one by the river with nice people and yummy breakfasts

israel – jerusalem had amazing breakfast and nice rooms

spain – my favorite of the trip. it felt like a home

peru – the nice one we stayed in with the tea tour and bear watching. the rooms were huge and nice. they had a private hot tub

Least Favorite Hotel & why

Hayes The airport hotel in Cairo was a low point. We were ready to unwind, but it was cramped and not so clean.
Rachel airport hotel of Delhi
Anika I cannot choose. None of the hotels were actually bad. I either loved the hotels, or I liked them.
Paloma the airport hotels everywhere – they are usually kind of dirty and not nice

Favorite Apartment & why

Hayes Probably the first AirBnB in Seville – so peaceful to be there and relax, and the place was big, beautiful, and had a well equipped kitchen. The apartment in Queenstown was great too.
Rachel Queenstown. Amazing view, ample space, large tv for watching Lord of the Rings, and great laundry machines.
Anika My favorite apartment we stayed in was in Seville, Spain. We were there for two weeks, and it was amazing. As well as being in a safe neighborhood, and able to come and go as I wanted, we got the whole building, with it’s 3 stories to ourselves. With 5 bedrooms, and and 4 bathrooms, my family got 2 extra bedrooms, and each got a bathroom to ourselves, a luxury we never have. It was in the perfect location, and I could walk to everything. It was a cozy home, and though big, did not overwhelm me. I loved this Airbnb.
Paloma seville, manly, cape town, because they had nice kitchens and they felt like real homes.

Least Favorite Apartment & why

Hayes That flea infested place in Sydney, for sure. Awful hosts, and we got so bitten up.
Rachel Manly. Bedbugs, fleas, broken heater, and a host who lacked integrity.
Anika My least favorite was a Airbnb we stayed at was in Manley. This had amazing rooms, a great kitchen, a backyard to make slime, a laundry machine, and comfy couches. The flaw in this magnificence were the bugs and the owner. There were bed bugs, fleas, and wow did they itch. by the time I left I had at least 100 bites. It wouldn’t have been quite as bad if when we told the owner, he didn’t deny it. As well as not owning up to the bugs, he claimed we broke his already broken stuff, and therefore, had to pay for the damage we did not make. Luckily, Airbnb was very empathetic and kind, and helped us with our problems.
Paloma israel tel aviv – location was nice and hotel was simple

barcelona – too big and it felt like unnecessary money, things were not in convenient places

Favorite Airport & why

Hayes Beijing airport had that nice water feature with seats to do work. Peaceful, quiet, beautiful.
Rachel Wellington in NZ. Spacious and clean.
Anika My favorite airport is most definitely Sydney, or SYD. Along with great food options, comfortable seating and nice staff, you have easy security, and stocked up stores. The gates are very easy to get to, and there is either a store, a coffee shop, or a smoothie bar outside each of them. All over the airport there are tables with high chairs that you can sit at, and charge . your device in the provided outlets. There is also WiFi that works, and you can access it anywhere in the airport. If you leave something in any place of the airport, or on a airplane, they are also people you can put your trust into. I left my computer on the airplane once, and it was 15 minutes before I realized my mistake. I went back to the gate, and it was waiting for me. They handled it very responsibly. They made me give them my user name and information before they gave it back to me, to prevent people from stealing it. My dad’s credit card allows us access to at least one lounge at every airport we go to, but at SYD, we thought that it was so nice in the main area, that we sat there instead.
Paloma geneva, all the airports with priority pass lounges

Least Favorite Airport & why

Hayes Not sure. Cairo was a blur, maybe not so great.
Rachel Ulgii, Mongolia. No working toilet.
Anika This is not my least favorite airport, but the place I had my worst experience. Here I was only with my mom, and it was our trip to London right before we left CA. We got into the airport, and everything was going smooth. When we got out, we had a taxi take us to a very nice hotel, and we had a awesome week. We were heading home on a Sunday, and it was a normal transition for the first part. The problem were the staff. Most of them were polite and kind as usual, but when we got to the baggage scanners, it sort of went downhill from there. We were only allowed to put one thing in each bin, and that was a little confusing for us. The problem was, the lady behind the counter was mean. She kept on yelling at us, and then when we still couldn’t get it, she marched up to us and did it for us. The bags went through, and we were relieved to get away. Then we got stopped. At the end of the line, a new lady (thank god) told my mom to open her bag. She opened it and did as the woman told. London is a fashion city. My mom bought a lot of new makeup and creams there, to bring back home. She took out all of her liquids, and laid them down. There aren’t the same rules as other airports. In this one, instead of not being able to have bottles over 3 ounces, but here, you just had to be able to fit everything inside of one small bag per person. My mom tried, but could only fit about half of her stuff. This woman was only doing her job, I knew that, but she was also being kind of mean about it. In the end, my mom had to throw away half her makeup. Our flight was leaving in 30 minutes, and already boarding, so we ran. To get to our terminal, we had to take the train. We arrived just as one was leaving. We got on the next one 6 minutes later, and took a 5 minute ride. When we got to the other side, we sprinted to the gate, which was pretty far away. We had given ourselves 3 hours of time. You are only supposed to come 2 hours in advance for a international, and usually have extra time still. We were the last people to board the plane, and it took off 3 minutes after we boarded. Nothing completely catastrophic happened, but it was a close call.
Paloma the one in indonesia because we had to stay outside in the heat for two hours

Favorite Airline & why

Hayes Spice Air, on account of the surprisingly delicious veg Indian food that emerged from the tin-foil covered tinfoil tray. “Veg or non-veg?” they asked. Haha. Love it!
Rachel All of them for getting me home safely
Anika My favorite airline is Virgin Air, and their mixes. As well as great entertainment, their seating is comfortable, staff kind, and their first class is actually better than economy.
Paloma bhutan air because we got emergency aisle with lots of legroom, qantas air because there was lots of space and pretty good food, and spicejet because the food was actually good!

Least Favorite Airline & why

Hayes American is probably the worst, with old planes, no entertainment centers (even though I don’t use them anyway) and occasionally grough staff.
Rachel Iberia nickels and dimes the customers. I wIsh the tickets had just cost more upfront.
Anika There was this one budget airline in Asia, and I can’t remember what it was called, but I remember that the seating Was so small, you could barely fit your luggage through the aisle, and they were trying to fit as many people on the plane as possible.
Paloma egyptair, iberia air, they were dirty with tiny seats

Favorite Drink & why

Hayes Fresh coconut water anywhere in SE Asia. Also, that choco-avocado smoothie at the roadside restaurant in Flores, Indonesia was amaaaaaazing.
Rachel Clean, spring fresh water from New Zealand.
Anika Water. I have drunk at least 1000 bottles of water with the help of my family this year, if not more. The bottled water is great, but my favorite was when we were in Switzerland. The tap water there came straight from the Swiss Alps, the same place Evian comes from. It was clean, germ free, and tasted amazing.
Paloma The icy lemonade in colombia because it was soo hot and the ice cold colombian drink with some special red fruit and honey.

Least Favorite Drink & why

Hayes That milk tea in Mongolia was not sooo bad – especially when paired with the equally bizarre cheese curds – but I don’t want to drink it again. At least I can now say I’ve had horse milk, camel milk, and yak milk.
Rachel Camel milk. It’s probably an acquired taste.
Anika Camel Milk. It wasn’t disgusting, but it needs a acquired taste.
Paloma mongolian tea! It’s disgustingly salty

Favorite Person we met & why

Hayes So nice to see Charlie and Gil, who made Rachel smile so much. I also have great memories of our guides in S. Africa and Zimbabwe, and especially liked Thabo in Johannesburg.
Rachel Margaret in NZ was so generous and welcoming.
Anika I loved everyone. One person I had in mind was A Muilder, just because she seemed so happy and content, and was my little 5 year old birthday treat.
Paloma dick from mongolia, sofia from new zealand, hannah from australia, the other guy from mongolia whose name i can’t remember.

Least Favorite Person we met & why

Hayes Probably the airbnb hosts in Seattle and Sydney who lied to us.
Rachel
Anika Grumpy Paloma. She is mean, does stuff to tick me off, and tries to as well.
Paloma

Favorite Guide & why

Hayes Thabo (Johannesburg) was so honest, forthcoming, and engaging – especially with the kids. Ahmed (Jordan) was a warm and open guy who grew on me as the week progressed.
Rachel We had many, many extraordinary guides. I can’t think of a favorite.
Anika I cannot choose, so many were amazing.
Paloma Australia brothers in tasmania because they did enough work with still letting us cook. peru guide, cambodia guide, mongolia guide, shlomi in israel, jordanian guide, south africa guide,

Least Favorite Guide & why

Hayes The A+K guides in Egypt were not good. Especially the guy on the boat. The others meant well, but the dictatorial government and constant security patrol made it so they did not speak openly to us, so I felt we were too protected from reality there.
Rachel Nile guide in Egypt. He seemed inauthentic, but to his credit, he tried hard and was always smiling.
Anika This guide was very nice, knew a lot about the the history of Turkey, and I liked him, I did. The only thing was that he was so close minded. He was religious, and that was okay, but he thought everything was connected to god. It may not have helped that my family is so stubborn, but it was annoying and embarrassing to have a god/no god conversation.
Paloma all of the guides in india treated us like we were a higher class and i don’t like that.

Favorite Driver & why

Hayes Our quiet but helpful Indian driver was awesome. I like that he was Sikh and glowed at our appreciation of his religion’s approach to public service to the needy.
Rachel Jordan. He was a complete neat freak. Cambodia. Probably because we were with the Haney-Foulds family it seemed like car time was always a party,
Anika My dad. So many reasons why.
Paloma our driver in peru, i can’t really remember the rest

Least Favorite Driver & why

Hayes None of them was truly awful, but I did get carsick a lot this year.
Rachel na
Anika A few years ago we went to Europe for a month during the summer, and we had just gotten out of the airport, and got into a taxi. There were four seats for us, but only three of them had seat belts. My sister got the seat that didn’t. I assume our driver was drunk. He could have and something else, but he drove like a mad man. It was horrible.
Paloma na

Favorite Community Service (school, service project) & Why

Hayes Although we didn’t do much, I enjoyed visiting the Juanfe Foundation (Colombia) who helped teen mothers. And I enjoyed visiting project Soar (Morocco) who helps teens stay in school and be feminists.
Rachel Biodigester in Zimbabwe. Actually, I have a long list here. We were very lucky to connect with SO many amazing people and organizations doing great work in their communities. There are a lot of inspirational people around the world.
Anika When we got to build a bathroom wall for a school in India with me to we. We had gloves and basically just slapped on wet cement and rocks. It was really fun, and it made my day to know I was helping the community and also having fun.
Paloma Me to We building a foundation, Bio-Digester in Zimbabwe, Seeing babies at the JuanFe foundation in Colombia

Least Favorite Community Service (school, service project) & Why

Hayes Biogas was fun to do, but I felt not a good value in terms of social impact / $ spent. That tech is just too expensive, so I felt the impact / cost was too low.
Rachel Kumbhalgarh, India broke my heart but the Me to We program is actually quite impressive.
Anika
Paloma na

Favorite Type of Activity

Hayes Cooking Classes, Learning from Locals, Hiking
Rachel Walking Tours, Learning from Locals, Hiking, Visiting Schools, Service Projects, Chillaxing (day at leisure)
Anika Chillaxing (day at leisure)
Paloma Cooking Classes, Learning from Locals, Fishing, Hiking, Visiting Schools, Service Projects, Chillaxing (day at leisure)

Least Favorite Type of Activity

Hayes Chillaxing (day at leisure)
Rachel
Anika Walking Tours
Paloma

Is There Anything Else?

Hayes That’s it!
Rachel Our ten months of traveling around the world was the most intense experience of my life. 8 am to 8pm of non-stop learning, exploring, traveling, helping, doing, and connecting. I learned that Paloma is the most positive person I have ever known, Hayes has more energy and drive than I knew plus he is an extraordinary father, and Anika has a deep love for animals and an amazing ability to lose herself in books. I missed routines and my pillow desperately and am so, so grateful we returned alive. The year felt a little like giving birth or taking a class that was way above my skill level. I am fundamentally changed and somewhat traumatized by the experience but also richer. Meeting people around the world was a humbling experience for me. I think it will take me a while to fully digest and process our experiences.
Anika These are answers of what I can remember, or what is most true. Not everything is on here that is in my mind, so I am sorry that you do not have the complete version.
Paloma Nope.

Our Year In Numbers

Days Travelled 303 We called it a year away. It was closer to 10 months, enforced by the lease we signed with tenants who cared for our home and cat, Pirate. It wasn’t always easy to keep going, and we may have come home earlier if we could have!
Forms of transportation 52 It turns out people have a lot of ways to get around. We’ve been sampling some of them.
Number of flights 75 We have been on too many flights this year!
Hours spent in the air 207 Really this is too many hours in the air.
Trees planted to apologize for our carbon footprint 35 One tree will absorb more carbon than we can all use in our lifetimes. But we planted more, in a forest area of Colombia that is being restored by local farmers with an NGO. Go mother earth!
Continents visited 6 All but the cold one.
Countries visited 25 There are just so many! We tried to see a lot, but only scratched the surface of our species’ amazing prevalence on our planet.
Beds we slept in 62 Too many hotels!
Meals eaten out 720 Eating out is not always easy. The food is salty, heavy and there’s usually too much of it. It took us a while to learn to only eat what we were actually hungry for. On the bright side, we didn’t have to do dishes much this year!
Meals cooked ourselves 180 Having an apartment with a kitchen was always exciting. The kids could make slime, and dinner, and we could shop for our own food and cook to our own tastes. This year we learned that the rest of the world considers us “health nuts.” In South Africa our guide told us, “I’ve never seen a family eat so much grass!”
Rolly bags + backpacks, each 1 We also packed a tiny duffel bag each for those times when our rolly-bags were too big to fit inside the small plane that was carrying us to a remote area. Sometimes we expanded and used a duffel as an extra carry-on, for instance when we had too much dirty laundry and not enough time to pack it neatly.
Water bottles used 3840 Most of the developing world just does not have tap water we could drink, and we each drank about 4 bottles per day.
Days until we return home 1 Cant wait!

Trains, Planes and Automobiles

It turns out people have a lot of ways to get around. We’ve been sampling some of them. In the past 10 months we’ve travelled by:

  1. Seventy-five airplanes
  2. So Many Trains – airport trains, commuter trains, sky trains, Indian trains, subways
  3. Cars
  4. Trucks, including a kiwi Ute
  5. Land Rovers in Mongolia
  6. Tourist vans, in so many places
  7. Topless Jeeps in India
  8. Mules in Bhutan (for our stuff, we walked)
  9. Inflatable raft in Bhutan
  10. Cable Cars up the mountain in New Zealand
  11. New Zealand Luges
  12. Ding Ding, the Hong Kong street car
  13. So many mini vans
  14. Asian Elephants
  15. Motorcycles
  16. Vespas
  17. Sidecars
  18. Bactrian camels in Mongolia
  19. ATVs in Siem Reap
  20. Zip Lines in Siem Reap
  21. Parachutes and skydivers in Queenstown
  22. Horses in Mongolia
  23. Busses
  24. Tuk tuk, including the Cambodian christmas elf party tuk tuk
  25. Boats: long tail, trimaran, converted fishing boats, ferries, Kayaks
  26. Zorbs in Rotorua
  27. Walking, trekking and hiking everywhere
  28. Bicycles
  29. A Water buffalo in Vietnam (guess where they tickle it to make it relax?)
  30. Andy’s Massey Tractor
  31. Ox-drawn wagon
  32. Electric airport buggies
  33. Escalators
  34. Elevators
  35. Moving walkways
  36. Sledding in New Zealand
  37. Ski lifts in New Zealand
  38. Pump train car on the pier in kangaroo island
  39. Speed cat at the great barrier reef
  40. Snorkels and flippers
  41. Israeli 4x4s near the dead sea
  42. Riverboat on the Nile
  43. Egyptian felucca
  44. Windsurfers in Sinai
  45. Dromedary camels in Jordan and Egypt
  46. Rotating cable car down Table Mountain
  47. Safari Jeeps in Kenya
  48. London Underground
  49. Chunnel train
  50. Paris Metro
  51. French rental car
  52. Hop-on Hop-off canal boat in Amsterdam
  53. Boston T
  54. “Shoe” taxis in Colombia
  55. Our own feet, hiking through Peru

 

Brighter Than a Phone Booth


A neon yellow smock calls out, “make your calls here.” Peruvians who run out of credit on their prepaid cell phone plans can find help in the town square. This lady has two simple feature phones she rents out by the minute. Each phone carries two SIM cards, one for each major carrier here. If you make a 30 second call – “Hello dear. Yes dear. Yes dear. Goodbye dear. I love you.” – they charge you the standard rate of 0.50 sols (about $0.15) for 1 minute, and keep the extra 30 seconds as their profit. One hundred calls added up over a day don’t amount to much, but it’s better than nothing.

There are no unemployment benefits in Peru, so unemployed people create simple jobs to get by. Some people live on very thin margins.

free time

Time speeds up as you grow older. Everyone says it. It’s true.

I used to have a theory about it: maybe it speeds up because I remember less. Maybe I’m more forgetful so there’s less I remember. And the years go faster. Everyone knows children learn faster. Maybe they also learn more, and that’s why time is slower when you’re younger.
Then I took this trip. Somewhere around week 3 time started slowing down. A week felt like a month. Week after week. My life felt so rich, and vibrant, and sloooow.
Now I have a different theory: maybe time speeds up as you get older because there’s not much worth remembering. Every day is sort of the same as the one before. There’s less novelty, fewer new things. There’s less to learn. So there’s less to remember. Fewer landmarks, fewer memories. Faster years.
The secret to slowing down time is to mix up the routines. To do things every day that are different, novel, and inspiring. To keep learning every day. Slowing down time – living richer days – is even better than living a longer life. Kids know how to do it. How to notice a bug on a leaf, or the funny way someone says hello.
The biggest gift of this year has been this “invented time.” The time I didn’t know would exist in my life. Ten years packed into one, with the people I love the most. We say in business that time is the one resource you can’t get more of. I feel like we got more time – free time – this year, with each other.
It’s been a lovely gift.

Google Maps: As Good As God

We arrived in Istanbul and met a big, boisterous guide who welcomed us to this ancient metropolis with a big smile, good English, and clean teeth. I always like to understand what matters to people. For our guide, Met, what matters is God. He’s translated the Koran into a few different languages and ensured me that there were only two types of people in this world: Muslims, and bad people. A Muslim, in his definition, is anyone who believes in God, in any religion, or even who just “leads a good life.” I’m a Muslim, according to him, because I clearly lead a good life, evidenced by my wife and children with me. Never mind that I’m Jewish.

Given that Rachel is an atheist, I asked him, “what about atheists.” “There are no atheists,” he told me. Only good people and bad people. You either lead a good life, or you don’t. He gave me a metaphor: “when you open Google Maps to get directions, do you believe it? Of course you do! It’s right!”

While I use and appreciate Google Maps, I let him know that I only believe it sometimes, because it is in fact not always correct and makes all sorts of mistakes. I tried taking the conversation further, but I think it will be a long road to convince Met that I will never consider myself a Muslim, religious conviction only works sometimes, and that science exists because we believe that our ideas are only our current Best-Guesses, and not The Truth.

VR at the Finnish Amerikan School in Turkey

I was surprised and uplifted to see not only a VR headset at the school we visited in Bodrum, Turkey, but some pretty nice looking curriculum accompanying it. The “Amerikan Free” school here boasts 8:1 student:teacher ratios, an English-speaking co-teacher in every classroom, and the Free school model from Finland, home of the world’s top-rated education system. These guys are really trying hard.

So, I felt a bit uplifted to see VR in their toolkit. Every kid gets a cheap Chinese headset and a box of books that have accompanying VR content to bring the lessons to life. Kids use it at home, and the hope is that the tech makes the learning more engaging and helps kids care about and remember their lessons better. I have high hopes.

After a relatively tech-free year it’s so great to see some of the things I’ve been doing actually catching on.

Double Horseshoes

Double horseshoes, more orange than I had imagined. Maybe it was the art historical photo that engrained black and white in my brain, a zebra-like pattern in three dimensions. It was like the beauty of a half-dream, the marvels I see when I close my eyes, repeating like and orchard, regularly in all directions.

The Catholics managed not to ruin it. It is no more beautiful with their church erected in its core, but I can sense the love and respect for the Moors in the Catholic architect’s plan. The traditions merge peacefully, a surprise given the inquisition’s bloody history.

Rachel challenged me: if I’m going to Design, make something that lasts one thousand years.

That’s a good challenge.

Ode to a traveler

I have lived it.
A developed life.
The safe familiar.
The organized, the efficient, the straight.
A symphony half-whispered.
Space carefully managed.
A million perfumed bodies.
Sweet flavorless air.

I have lived it.
A developing life.
The worry of being sick.
The low drone of a stomach longing.
A cautious curiosity.
Wet and green, soft and flexible.
Laughter of families kept close.
A billion people pressed against me.
Combustion clouding my breath, my head.
Spice surpassing it all.

I have lived it
A bit at a time
With you, my family
Who I love
Who I hold close
Who share my thoughts
My feelings.

You have lived it.
These sights
Sounds
Touches
Smells
Tastes
Feelings.

They are mine
They are yours
They are ours.

Technology in South Africa

Johannesburg / Cape Town / Soweto

First, a bit of background that I think is helpful

A Zimbabwean explained to me that the US has a strategic interest in South Africa. I gather that it’s easier for the US Navy to sail aircraft carriers around Cape Town if there are not enemy missiles pointed from Cape Town out to sea. Given this strategic interest, I’m surprised to see that the entrepreneurs in South Africa are Indian and Chinese rather than American. Why don’t we do more business investment in South Africa? Maybe we are waiting for the government to get a bit more trustworthy, since President Zuma had been stealing all the money for many years now. If the government gets more trustworthy there, maybe this will change.

South African culture is vastly different from the US. It’s tribal. It’s still really, really racist, as black-white tensions have not disappeared since Apartheid was abolished over 25 years ago. The government is super corrupt at all levels, which has been really damaging for the people. It’s complicated, and too much (and too off-topic) to get into here. Just keep in mind: Johannesburg or Cape Town may look a bit like an American City, but it’s really quite different there.

I interviewed people as we traveled across South Africa. Here are a few things I have learned from them:

The iPhone is too expensive for most people here

Largely people are Android users.

Most villagers can’t afford cell data

They use SIM cards (call / text) only.

In Johannesburg many people own more than one phone

Why? Mistresses. One phone for each mistress — it is easier to keep affairs separated that way.

There are traditional affairs, and then there are the new ones enabled by the internet

Blesserfinder is an online “dating” site where middle-aged men pick up poor girls from the slums to be their “girlfriend” for a year or two or three until the girls are pregnant or their “blessers” are otherwise done with them. A young woman might just really want that iPhone, and that fancy bag, of that fancy dress. With unemployment for youth hovering over 50% it’s easy to imagine that people may see few ways to get out of poverty.

I heard a lot of stories about how hard it is for young women in South Africa, the country with the highest incidence of rape in the world and world’s 4th highest incidence of AIDS. Blessers are a uniquely sad example of how social media enables old-fashioned trades like prostitution to flourish online, and how widespread economic and education gaps here lead to the web supporting different (and more desperate) priorities and choices than we are used to at home.

There are very, very few black entrepreneurs in South Africa

Thabo, a middle-class black South African from a Johannesburg township explained it to me like this: black people don’t want to see other black people succeed in business. If there are two businesses, and one is run by a white person, all the black people will go to the white business. Why? They don’t like seeing a neighbor succeeding because it makes it obvious that they are failing; they would rather see them fail. The lack of black entrepreneurs has left a leadership vacuum that is being filled by Indian and Chinese immigrants. While these businesses are mostly involved in manufacturing, real estate, and trade right now, in the future we may see internet entrepreneurship in South Africa coming from Indian and Chinese business people.

Phone calls and mobile payments are key applications for mobile phone users

EcoCash is the most popular way to send money – it uses SMS dial codes for authentication and works without a data plan. Small business owners can become currency exchangers and take a small commission for converting EcoCash payments into hard currency. Ecocash was described to me as a rare success story of a black African entrepreneur (in this case, from Zimbabwe) making a positive difference in the community, and creating a successful business. Everyone uses it.

 

Technology in Zimbabwe


A traditional Zimbabwe villager’s kitchen has no technology in it.

Victoria Falls / Two rural villages outside vic falls

In the villages people lead simple lives, often with limited access to fuel, water, and food. People are subsistence farmers living largely on corn mash with occasional vegetables and meat a couple times a month, perhaps. Life is hard here. Even basic technologies like electricity and on-demand fuel do not exist here.


High tech for an African homestead: this bio-digester turns cow poop into methane for cooking, so that young girls don’t have to forage for wood 2 hours each day.

We installed a bio-digester in one family’s home so they could produce methane gas for cooking from decomposing cow dung. This is a lifestyle-changer for them, because the young women in the family will typically spend hours a day scavenging firewood to cook, and then have to breathe tons of dirty smoke while they cook. In contrast to the simple living in the rural areas, more successful villagers may have a solar cell or two on their homestead for electric lighting and to charge cell phones. A phone may be shared among family or village members.

EcoCash, an e-banking service that requires only a basic call/text plan is big here – actually it was invented here. People’s plans typically provide phone+text services only. People are using their phones for money transfers, crop harvest information, and business. Weather forecasts are not used.

Some wealthier people own a nokia for reliability in the bush, and a smartphone for being connected in the city. It is a familiar story for people with poor connectivity. People wondered why there was not better data service in the bush.

I wondered why data services are so expensive, after seeing such low prices in Cambodia. Could internet services be cheap and ubiquitous? Whomever figures this out first will make a lot of money, and change the economy permanently.

I spent a while speaking to a young Zim woman who had a 2012 Nokia Windows phone and she lamented that the new phones are less reliable and harder to use than the old Nokia s40 devices. She missed the old Hardware buttons, durability and battery life of the candybar s60 or s40 nokias. She owns a windows phone and loves the good camera on it, but none of the key apps like Instagram, WhatsApp and Facebook were updated, so she felt left out. She wanted Android just to have current apps (FB, whatsapp, instagram) but didn’t want the OS software to change every year.

I suspect a beautifully designed, ruggedized, affordable android phone with good OS would go a long way here. There are ruggedized phones out there, but they are ugly, and usability of affordable Android phones is reportedly awful. A business opportunity for one of the big tech companies, perhaps?

Technology in Kenya

Many Maasai warrior wear digital watches next to traditional beadwork. This man’s Nokia 810 and Android phone are tucked beneath his robes as he cleans his teeth with a traditional toothbrush tree.

Nairobi / Lewa – Maasai villages / Mara North – Maasai villages

Life in Africa revolves around community, with hierarchy in this order: family (starting with the eldest male), village, tribe. Everything is tribal. A tribe can be thousands of people, like the Zulu or Maasai. This underlies most societal structures from governments to families in schools.

This Nairobi shantytown houses over 300,00o Nigerians

Many people here are very poor – the shantytowns in Nairobi are huge, for example there are 300,000+ people in one shantytown. People choose to live there because it is very cheap, e.g. $50/month. TV dishes dot the roofs of these shantytowns, as this has become affordable enough to enable local businesses to install and support them. TV services are not cheap though – something like $20-30 / month for service, a cost equal to a month’s food budget. I wonder if the internet may enter many people’s homes via these TV providers, since infrastructure already exists.

Maasai live a really traditional life. Digital wrist watches are worn. Cell phones are carried (and shared) but used seldomly. To share phones, people swap SIM cards. Each person has their own SIM and they change it out, sometimes sharing a phone in a family or village. This requires taking out the battery, etc, so a simpler way to swap SIMs could be useful for them.

People use their phones to send money in Kenya. Some are still exchanging airtime minutes from carriers to send money, and many use M-Pesa for financial transactions. M-Pesa charges about 1% transaction fee, and the money exchanger (usually a small business entrepreneur at a local market) charges another 2% commission to do an exchange into a fiat currency. There is some interest in cryptocurrency here but no reported uptake yet.

Farmers use phone calls for crop/cow pricing. Weather reports are not important to the people I spoke to. Surprising.

Cameraphones are useful for staying connected to family who are far away. They are hard for the Maasai to get, since there is no handset distribution in rural areas. To get one, they have to give cash to a friend who will buy one in Nairobi (a 10 hour drive away) and bring it back.

Nokia phones such as the 810 are popular in the bush, but they don’t do internet. Popular android phones from Tecno, sell online for $75 for the handset and last 1-3 years. One local told me they can be found for as little as $10. However, utility is limited by the relatively expensive data plans here: data required to watch YouTube the way we do at home is $0.50 / day, about half of a daily food budget. So, people are very sparing with their data usage. WhatsApp may be cheaper than SMS plans, so people may get a prepaid plan for $2 and stretch it to last 2 weeks for WhatsApp messaging only. Unlike Cambodia which has very cheap data plans, the cost of data services in Nigeria do not match the local economics, so adoption and innovation of internet services are very limited. 

Technology in Egypt

Nile River (Luxor to Aswan) / Dahab, Sinai / Cairo

In most ways, Egyptians use technology like people from other modern and cosmopolitan developing countries such as India. Infrastructure is not great, but it exists. Prices are not great, but they are suitable for the middle class. So, people have smartphones and use the most popular apps like WhatsApp, Instagram and Facebook.

The country is famous for the “Facebook revolution” in 2012 when millions of young people organized on Facebook to protest then-president Mubarak. In response to the protests, Mubarak was forced by the Army to step down. Democratic elections led to the Muslim Brotherhood gaining power. MB is a right wing extreme Islamist organization that quickly tried to institute Islamic laws, change the constitution and grab power. The public protested, leading to the replacement of their leaders by senior members from the Egyptian Army, who currently hold power. People seem to both respect and fear President el-Sisi, a man who is both described as someone who is fighting corruption, and who is building prisons to lock up all his opponents. It was not clear to what extent Egyptians live under a military dictatorship right now, but comments from various people indicated that freedom of speech does not exist. This is an interesting contrast to comments that social media allows for the exchange of ideas, news, and information so that people can self-organize without the cooperation of traditional media channels. Activitsts seem to be skating on thin ice. 

Democracy does not come easily to a former dictatorship. Two people (one native Cairo, one long-term expat) independently told me that “Egypt is not ready for democracy” because Egyptians are not educated enough to vote sensibly. Of the two, it was the European-educated Cairo resident who explained to me that people don’t know what “freedom” means. According to her, people think it means “I get things for free” when in fact it means people have to all work towards collaborative self-governance. I noticed such a gap across Africa: democratic elections exist but people don’t know how to make democracy work. Governments are authoritarian and often corrupt.

Literacy is an endemic current issue which limits many aspects of life, not just government. Limits in literacy also affect technology adoption, since most modern technologies – and especially the most affordable ones – are based on reading and writing, and thus require basic literacy to be useful. Services like YouTube are widely popular because they can reach even illiterate people, but using them costs more, and with lack of education usually comes a lack of money to afford higher bandwidth services.

Soweto

They pronounce it “Sowetu.” It’s the South West Township outside of Johannesburg. Back in the day, the European settlers found a whole lot of gold near here. The problem: native people were living on top of it, and the racist government wanted them out of the way. So, they made it illegal for black people to live there, built new homes in townships, rounded up the native South Africans and put them in this collection of ghettos.

The white rulers kept the blacks under control with a series of increasingly severe laws that restricted movement, access to education, and jobs. Critics and protesters were handled in the harshest ways: tortured, imprisoned and killed. Sometimes hundreds of school children were gunned down from military tanks to quell any dissent. This was life in Soweto. This was life under apartheid.

Apartheid finally ended in 1991, but racism is still a driving force here. Soweto is the most famous township today, the recipient of numerous grants, capital infusions and attention from tourists. Nelson Mandela, the figurehead of South African freedom, lived there. Desmond Tutu, the pacifist bishop who helped mount peaceful resistance, lived there. And today, unlike many parts of South Africa, there is even a functional internal economy with black-owned businesses that support local needs.

This township is over 1.4 million people and growing. Some of them have nice houses. Many live in steel shacks. We overlook one slum as children walk home from school. Eighty thousand people pack into a small gully between a stream and the highways. We can see the whole shantytown beneath us, scarcely larger than a city park in Palo Alto, but holding a larger population than our whole city. A single-room tin house may hold thirteen people. Rocks hold down its roof to combat windstorms. Tarps cover holes to slow the leaks, but we see an old man sweeping water out his front door after today’s rain.

Watch out for wires. Bare wires snake precariously from the base of a street lamp into the village. They used to be laying in the grass, but too many children were dying from stepping on them. So townspeople suspend them in the air now, held up by sticks or trees to bring city power to light the few lamps that people have in this village. Unlike the electric fences that merely hurt intruders of the affluent homes down the road, these electric fences will kill you if you touch them.

Despite the poor conditions of the village, the children look clean and healthy as they walk home from school in their matching uniforms. Our guide Thabo warns us, “I can tell you something — none of these kids will make it. They will advance in school, but the pass-rate is now 30%; they can get only 30% on their end of year exams and still pass on to the next grade. Most of these kids will never learn to read and write.” Although the World Factbook claims that 93% of the population can read, our guide tells us that many kids actually finish high school unable to read and write. It seems even their president can’t read simple numbers put in front of him – so what must this mean for the poorest of the poor?

Thabo worries most for the girls. Many of them are lured by the appeal of “Blessers” or “sugar daddies” who are easily found online on “dating” sites like BlesserFinder. A fifty year-old blesser will offer a scantily clad fifteen year old the chance for an iPhone and fancy clothes to be his “girlfriend.” He will pay her for a year, or two, or three, until he is done with her. She may get pregnant, she may not. But someday she will be on her own to find a new blesser, or she may end up standing on the street like Thabo’s friend did working for a Nigerian pimp. Why do some South Africans carry 3 or 4 cell phones? Mistresses. One for each woman. It’s easier to keep them separate that way.

Unemployment is over 50% for youth here. People know president Zuma is corrupt. They know he steals all the money. They know the police will “make a plan” with you they pull you over (i.e. extortion) rather than give you a ticket. But what can the people do? Their choices are grim: they can vote for the ANC again, who ended apartheid but has horrible corruption, or vote for the DA who are associated with apartheid. It is no choice, and people vote largely for the ANC. Things are not getting better.

This seems like a pattern in poorer countries: there is not enough money to go around, so the people in power (i.e. the ones with guns) steal it. Government corruption means not enough money for education. So, kids don’t learn enough, and the nation ends up with an uneducated workforce. People are not educated, so corruption tends not to improve; people’ votes are bought by crooks! Furthermore, foreign investments are slim and when companies do invest, profits flow out of the country to the foreigners, keeping the country poor.

I hope things turn around for South Africa, but after two days diving into current affairs in Johannesburg, I worry. While racism is clearly less severe than in the 1980’s, it is still prevalent, and the majority political party seems deeply damaging. And the locals don’t seem to be supporting each other. Black entrepreneurs are few and far between because locals are deeply jealous of each others’ successes. So, Chinese and Indian immigrants tend to fill the entrepreneurial vacuum, with South Africans working for them. The result: money continues to flow out of the country. What’s not stolen by the government is earned (and taken offshore) by enterprising immigrants.

When will things improve here? I don’t know. Despite abundant natural and human resources, it seems that people here are not set up to capitalize on them to make things better for themselves.

Things to be grateful for this morning in the Sinai

  1. we’re not dead yet. so far we are safe.
  2. the mountains here are really beautiful.
  3. the ocean is too.
  4. and the weather is nearly perfect.
  5. i’ve been able to get coffee every morning, even though it’s not very good almost anywhere in egypt
  6. i slept pretty well, even though a mosquito kept waking me up, and i was greeted at 5 am by a house mouse
  7. a cat showed up to get rid of the mouse, but I turned it away. 1 strange animal in my room was enough
  8. everything is a teachable moment, including when i casually threw away the dead cockroach in the kids’ shower last night
  9. they gave us a bodyguard, a logistics manager, and flew out a guide. we cancelled one of the guided trips, the one that this guide specializes in. oops. too tired, and afraid of travel advisories from our government. but he was really nice about it. so there’s that.
  10. the buffet at this hotel is good.
  11. they found us connecting rooms after all, although it took a while and they probably have not been cleaned in a couple months.
  12. tourism is low here, since the revolution. but that means that it’s not crowded, and everyone is really grateful that we are here. I think the media has made out Egypt to be a really unsafe place, but the people here feel pretty secure. I suspect it’s safer than Israel, or most parts of Oakland, but somehow doesn’t feel that way. Maybe it’s all the security checkpoints where there are lots of people but they don’t seem to be doing much…maybe it’s that the army seems to run the government here but it’s not really clear how things work…

Technology in Cambodia

An elderly man sits on the ground on the side of a dirt road and types on a laptop. YouTube logos top the 4G plan ads along the roadsides, as if Google sponsored the major highways here. Cell networks are surprisingly decent here compared to other developing nations I’ve visited in Asia. People are starting new businesses and taking up new hobbies, but censorship runs deep and internet adoption is sporadic. Some observations of Cambodia:

At a computer lab at a foreign-funded after-school center, 400 children learn basic computing skills every 6 months. Due to lack of time, they don’t get much deeper than the basics of MS Word, Excel and Powerpoint, but I pointed the teacher to the Kahn Academy and explained that there is a lot of good free educational content online. We had a conversation about what should come first: “computing skills (MS suite)” or “internet skills (Chrome+Google).” I argued for the latter – my kids’ first computer was a Chromebook – but he had never looked at it that way and perhaps didn’t know how that would lead to marketable skills for his students. I pointed out that at least that way the ESL children could listen to more native English speakers on YouTube or khanacademy.org. He seemed unconvinced but interested to see if things were really free.

A YouTube power user nestled a tech rig among rural rice paddies. This twenty year old lives in a traditional stilted house in rural Cambodia. Like all farmers we met in the country here, his house is prepared for the annual floods by situating the floor a couple meters above ground, and they are surrounded by their family farm. Unlike some others, his house is on the electrical grid so he has enough electricity to power a laptop and speaker system. He proudly shows me a slick korean cell phone with HD cameras and his YouTube channel, replete with dozens of videos of him and his band playing traditional Cambodian music on xylophones. The family puts his cheap Singaporean laptop and speakers into service to play pop music, and he laments that the machine is too underpowered to do video editing very well.

On Christmas night, we bump into a tuk-tuk driver with a karaoke party coach. He pulls an android tablet off the handlebars, turns on the data connection, opens YouTube and tells us to pull up any song we like. After the six of us sit down in the two facing bench seats, he hands us microphones and we drive off with lights flashing and music blaring. I guess 4G is good enough here for the enterprising entrepreneur to drive tourists in style!

But be careful what you say online! The locals told me that if you criticize the government you can get your accounts shut down, or worse. One guide’s friends will travel to other countries like South Korea to speak up about the Cambodian government. While the internet may be lauded in the west as a fountainhead of democracy, it need not be all that. Fear tactics can go a long way, as every terrorist and totalitarian regime knows. Here, the internet is becoming a tool for commerce and education, with free speech and access to media easily put aside by a communist state.

A Building on a Poor Foundation

The houses here in Koh Rong, Cambodia are crooked. They are falling down, the wall boards rotting, the footings leaning in uncomfortable directions. I thought the structures were just old and weathered from too many salty storms, and then I noticed the new building that is being put atop poorly placed concrete pilings, pilings which are sloppily nestled in shallow sand near the shore. It won’t last long either.

Last night I was telling the kids about the Khmer Rouge, and how Pol Pot led a genocide that wiped out an entire generation of educated Cambodians. Forty years ago everyone with money or an education was summarily executed by the Khmer Rouge. If you ran a business, they killed you. If you had gone to school, they killed you. If you spoke a foreign language, they killed you. If you wore glasses, they killed you. They killed one quarter of the population. Who was left? Militants and simple farmers.

Although the Khmer Rouge officially gave up 18 years ago, they are not gone. The prime minister is from the Khmer Rouge. The left-over militants walked out of the jungle in the 90’s and have reintegrated into the police forces. Our guide is afraid of the police. Who knows who you’re taking to when a police man pulls you over – it could be a former assassin.

And be careful what you say — everyone knows you might disappear if you speak out against the government. The government works for the government, not for the people. Locals describe it as a communist state following China’s model in which elections exist in name only and those in power work towards total control of the society. They fear that Vietnam is really running the show here, and in Vietnam the Vietnamese fear that China is running the show there. Perhaps that is true. A puppet master pulling strings.

The crooked foundation on that new beach house seems symbolic of the Cambodian people’s situation. They would like to improve, but they seem not to know how. As a result of the Cambodian genocide, they have no elders, few educated people, and they lack teachers who can help them improve their lives. With a deeply corrupted government, education dollars are not going towards reeducating the children, who are only allowed to attend school for 4 hours a day.

That new beach house probably won’t last twenty years. The Cambodian economy similarly is not set up to grow. In killing off a whole generation of the educated and business classes, Cambodian leaders have destroyed the knowledge and know-how that it takes to compete on a global scale today. How will Cambodians improve the lives of the people here? Will they learn to put the foundations deeper, anchored in stable bedrock? Will they choose to educate their people, and anchor their society in modern skills and knowledge? I hope so, but signs are not promising. The slow passage of time may weather their social structures just as it will weather that crooked home, leaving the people with an un-ending supply of basic problems that keep them busy.

Simple People, Complex Politics

The Mekong River starts in China and goes through 4 other countries before it ends in southern Vietnam. Every year the river gets bigger, overflows its banks and floods the southern end of Vietnam, in an area called the Mekong River Delta. The people who live in the delta depend on these floods, using the water to grow rice and fish. The floods bring water and mud that fertilizes the crops, and it’s easy to move around flooded rice paddies on boats. People here can grow two or three rice crops a year, and Vietnam is the second largest producer of rice in the world. The people who live here have a simple life and they are happy.

Vietnamese farmers in the delta are worried that the river may stop flowing someday soon. China is building six dams on the Mekong River thousands of kilometers upstream. China is doing this to provide electricity to their people, but the Chinese could also take the water from the river to grow food and drink in years when it doesn’t rain enough. If they do this, people downstream might not have enough water to survive.

The Vietnamese people we spoke to don’t believe their government would help them if this happened. Fifty years ago China helped Vietnam win a war against the United States. Some Vietnamese people we spoke to think Vietnam still owes China favors. Right now, China is taking over Vietnamese islands and the Vietnamese government is not complaining. What else might the Chinese government try to take from Vietnam as a return for these favors? Farmers in the Mekong River delta worry that if the Chinese government takes the water from the Mekong River, their government will not try to stop it. Without the yearly floods, Vietnamese people may starve, or else have to move away from their homes and find a different life in the city.

Fishing in the mud: a farmer traps fish in the waterways, and then we bail out the water to make fishing as easy as reaching out to grab something super slippery – not so easy!

Anika tries her hands at a traditional rice husking machine. Spin it, Anika!

Some ways people use (and don’t use) technology around the world

So far we’ve been in the United States, New Zealand, Mongolia, India, Bhutan, two islands of Indonesia (Bali and Flores), four regions of Australia, and countless airports. We have seen different people using technology and have spoken to that least one person in depth about it in each country. And you can learn something by looking at people. Let me tell you some of the things I’ve noticed.

First of all “first world” seems to apply to Internet as much as anything. I had sort of gotten used to the idea that people are glued to their phones all the time whether it is to socialize, to learn, to optimize their travel schedule, or to be entertained. Not so outside of the US, it seems.

Namaste.
An Indian builder greets us with his phone conveniently tucked between his palms, a sight I saw often seen in India where people hold their phones ready-at-hand.

Internet service does not exist everywhere, and it does not always work. And connectivity alone does not make a country internet-native. As the Kiwis say, they live 20 years in the past. So even though Google Maps works flawlessly, not that many people depend on the internet the way we do at home. In the other places I’ve been, the internet does not always work, or even exist in the same form as we have at home, because unreliable or horribly slow connections really change what you can use the internet for, and how you will end up using it.  

Some challenges

  1. The internet doesn’t work very well most places. Many of our web services don’t work when this is the case (e.g. many Google services like Photos and Hangouts). Personally, I have had to migrate to WhatsApp, SMS, and Instagram just to have tools that work reliably.
  2. The only place that people seem to have their eyes glued to their phones is the airport. Maybe this is because people have more time or more money or come from bigger cities, or perhaps they are bored or lonely being away from home (or all of the above).
  3. Phones started out as communication devices and seem to still be that for most people in most places. There are some additional utilities, such as in Mongolia where they rely on cell phones for weather forecast which are quite helpful to the farmers. But mostly they are about being connected to people.
  4. When I have asked people what they use their phones for, internet services are often not mentioned. For example, a man in India told me lots of things which were mostly about using Facebook (although he never mentioned Facebook by name). He didn’t mention any Google services, which surprised me (as a former Googler). So I asked specifically about Google and Google Maps and things like that. The man I was speaking to said, “oh yeah of course – Uncle Google! That’s what we call it – uncle Google knows everything and yes we know Google Maps to and use that a lot.” This attitude was pretty typical: people focus on what they are for, not what the tools or networks are called, or who provides them.
  5. Most of the places we have been to are not iPhone-heavy cultures. Attitudes about iPhone range from not caring, to wanting an iPhone and not being able to afford it, to assuming that we own iPhones even though they have handled our phones directly to take our photographs. They seem to largely be status symbols at this stage, since people can’t tell the difference between a Pixel and an iPhone.My guide in Flores had two phones: a Nokia candy bar phone for calls and SMS, and a Samsung S5 for WhatsApp. He also uses the S5 for Google photos (whose client-server model is much too complicated for him to understand), and FB messenger (which brings home new business) and occasional demos of Google maps, when he wants to “take his uncle to Europe,” or see where a client lives. He has no real idea that Google makes Android, and he uses email and Facebook too. But it’s basically his WhatsApp phone, in his thoughts. What’s the most important thing to people? Other people.

People are interested in other people

The rest of the world seems to have stronger sense of community than we have at home, at least in the old-fashioned sense of community where community means that you live with other people and you talk to them all the time. Community means you get in each others’ business, in each others’ ways, and rely on each other deeply. This is true in New Zealand (which is a little bit more affectionate than England), and it was also true in India where people are almost literally living on top of each other everywhere you go. It was true in Bhutan, in Indonesia, and in Australia. Because of this, in some places like Flores, people spend little or no time maintaining relationships with people who are far away.

Tools like Facebook and Instagram take on a different role when they are used more for coordination of the next face to face encounter, rather than relationship maintenance (as we do in the US). In a culture where families live together and people require face-to-face communication to make important decisions, technology is a way to (at best) arrange your next encounter with someone important, or (at worst) to get in touch with people who have made the unfortunate choice to move too far away talk to be part of your face to face community. In short, it’s all about the people.

Technology for a traveling family

I’ve been trying to notice how people use technology around the world. But before I talk about what other people do, l want to talk about our use of technology on this trip. We have been quite dependent upon it. Our books come in the form of four Kindles. Our vegertainment comes in the form of four cell phones loaded with games (mostly 1010!), music (all offline) and YouTube (downloaded sit com scenes, squishy slime videos, and cooking videos). The rest of our academics happens with three laptops which we share. I got tired of not having a keyboard so I bought a tiny Bluetooth keyboard in Mongolia to go with my phone, because I’m too stubborn to buy a fourth laptop and carry that much more weight with us around the world this year. We can share.

Doing academics in the Beijing airport. A good place to learn some math and catch up on writing.

Even though I’m often told by Anika that “Everyone has one,” we have been reluctant to get the girls phones for years now, promising them they can have one when they turn 25. We broke from tradition on this trip so they could have decent pocket cameras. It seems that today’s cell phones take pictures almost as well as a pocket digital camera, and they are a whole lot easier to use for saving and sharing the pictures. Plus, they come with YouTube, music, Google and various other things like video games and flash card apps. We’ve forbidden the kids from using social networks like Instagram despite many pleas and persuasive essays (which were actually quite persuasive) because I think these services are just too addictive. As a designer, I see a slot machine every time a social feed is down-swiped in search of an update, and as a parent I’m not ready to argue with my kids about the line between self-control and addiction. That said, Rachel and I got on the Instagram train for this trip, and I have to say that has been an easy way to quickly share a few photos and keep a minimal connection to friends back home. A two-sided coin.

We’re relying on lots of offline content this year, such as many books we photographed before leaving home, and a few android apps that work well without an internet connection. It’s a relief when the internet actually works reliably and quickly, and it’s taken me over a month to finish this post because I just have not had a reliable internet connection for that long. Who would have guessed that I would have to come to Hobart, Tasmania to find one – even major Australian cities like Melbourne only deliver the equivalent of a 56k baud connection most of the time. It’s like going back to 1998!

p.s. Speaking of Instagram, a quick aside to give credit to Facebook, whose folks seem to have figured out that the rest of the world doesn’t have a good internet connection and wants to stay connected anyway. Most Google services are woefully unreliable in the parts of the world where 3G comes and goes. So far this year we have come to expect that LTE may not exist. For everyone we have met, the internet is sort of like boiled water: it exists sometimes but you can’t count on it so you hope for the best and do what you can to get through the day. More about that later….

 

Children of the British empire

I had been mulling it over for a while, and in the grocery store yesterday I made my mind up: I’m not an American. I’m a child of the British empire. We are the same everywhere, we children. New Zealand. Australia. The more “civilized” corners of India. Seattle, Portland and Palo Alto. 

We speak English. We eat boiled vegetables and meat. We honor capital and capitalism, and while we may eat turkey at different times of year, we all decorate for Christmas. 

The grocery stores are more decorated by American brands than British ones these days, but the Broccoli and Cauliflowers harken back to their British roots. The language, religion, food, and education holds us together. 

It’s familiar here in Melbourne, with urban sprawl and suburban habits. Trampoline gyms charge by the hour and children’s musical performances feature Moana, Michael Jackson, The Rocky Horror and Mathilda. 

God save the suburbs, and God save the Queen!

Flea Circus

Some things are best forgotten, at least until nostalgia can set in. We were so excited to go off “the Sam program” for a little while in Australia: after so many weeks being served, being guided, and being cared for, and we just wanted to cook our own meals in our own home. So, we booked a lovely suburban home in Manley Beach and looked forward to cooking too many desserts and making too much slime.

Two weeks ago, our host cancelled. We had nowhere to stay. Airbnb apologized with a $200 credit but there were few alternatives in Manly. The best was a new listing, and while I generally don’t take chances on homes with no reviews, it looked quite good and the price was great. We were a bit desperate so I figured we’d take a chance, because everyone has to list a place for the first time some time.

Oh, regret. First, the heater would not turn off. Then the bug bites started coming. And coming…and coming. I’d already been in frequent attempted contact with the property management company, but they were characteristically slow to respond and now were suspicious of our reports that we had seen fleas jumping around on the couch, and our daughter was covered in bites. They asked for photographs, and told me the previous tenants had not complained. I guess I can’t blame them for asking for evidence, but I felt bruised that they doubted my integrity, because I don’t lie or steal. So I sent pictures, and videos. And finally I sent a whole album.

Maybe there were bedbugs too? I found many critters once I started looking, and now I’m paranoid. We have all sorts of bites. Last night I barely slept, over caffeinated and over stressed. Today we took all our clothes to the local overpriced launderette to be dried on high temp to kill everything that might try to hitch a ride when we left.

And we left. I found an overpriced last-minute deal on a hotel room in the CBD, which at least gets us closer to the Opera House where we can have our spirits lifted watching Jews get ostracized by Shakespeare in The Merchant of Venice. Hopefully the kids don’t just sleep through it, and hopefully they enjoy it, and hopefully we can just move on.

Although as I write, here I am on the ferry heading back for one last rendezvous with the bug hotel. Rachel forgot all her makeup in a drawer, items lovingly assembled into a happy family of beautifying splendor. I think she’ll enjoy her makeup more than dinner with me, at least in the long run, so I’m running back to the north head on the fast ferry to see if they are still in the drawer where she last found them. Hopefully I won’t miss the show.

Tomorrow we get back on the Sam program and head off to see what North Queesnsland has to offer. I’ll take Sam a bit less for granted, and enjoy that despite being in the tropics, our hotel will most likely be beautiful, relaxing, and flea free.

A day in Moni and Kelimutu

After visiting the sunrise at the Kelimutu crater lakes – worth a 4 am wake up – we headed over the hill to visit a local elementary school. We hit the local version of “being snowed in,” a landslide on the road that blocked both lanes. Despite switching from our car to 2 mopeds, we were waiting with all of the other Indonesians to get over the pass. An hour later, they opened a lane and we zipped over to school, needing to make it before they adjourned at 12:15 pm.

Schools here have short days, but meet 6 days a week. Public school is free (or at least heavily subsidized, can’t remember) until college, and all kids go to school through grade 12, just like in America. The rural mountain school we visited was like rural schools in many places: crowded, underfunded and simple. But unlike some other rural schools we visited (such as two in India), this one was full of bright and happy children and teachers, and was seemingly well organized.

All the children were brought out in the mid-day sun to say hi to us and to introduce themselves. They sang a couple songs and danced 2 dances for us. They were good! We had our ukelele with us, so Paloma and I returned in kind with a couple American songs – “Someone to Lava” and “You Are My Sunshine.” After this, we shared some gifts. Our guide Marino had helped us organize some school supplies to donate to the children, who could really use useful things like pens, papers, and, it turns out, soap and toothbrushes. Paloma and I handed them out to the children, personally introducing ourselves to each one and shaking their hands. “Hi, my name is Hayes. Nice to meet you. Here’s a toothbrush!” They were so very cute and so very happy. We spent some time chatting, and taking pictures together, and then headed inside to the 1st grade classroom.

We saw some math on the board, and Paloma jumped right in as “teacher,” writing problems, and letting the children solve them on the board. I introduced division to them for the first time, asking how 3 children would share 6 fruits. How many would each person get? Paloma drew it out, and the kids looked puzzled, but hopefully got the idea at least a little bit when Paloma showed that each kid gets two fruits. We wrote in their guest book, and after a while said goodbye with smiles and waves to all. I’m not exactly sure what those kids will tell their parents tonight!

Afterwards we headed further down the hillside to visit a traditional village. This village is only fully occupied once a year during a festival, but as we were getting a tour, the village elders, who live there permanently, invited us in to their home. After sitting with us in the cool shade of their palm-thatched home, they offered some coffee and food to us. Paloma was hungry, and who am I to turn down coffee…even though it was a bit scary. Their finest coffee here is processed first by the local fauna, the beans traveling through the digestive tract of a cat before being peeled, roasted , ground, and brewed for us in the manner of Turkish coffee (no filter). I guess that’s what you call a delicacy! Despite my aversion to the coffee-laden poop that was proudly illustrated on the table in front of me, I gave the black brew a try. And…it was delicious. And the food was too.

Paloma did happy dances she loved the food so much! Our hosts, who may have been in their 70’s, could not have been more smitten, like loving grandparents you’d meet anywhere in the world. You like my food? I like you! Here, eat more! We even ate the chili sauces – both of them! Our “snack” consisted of boiled bananas (not too sweet, more like bread), boiled sweet potatoes, fried banana rounds, fried sweet potato rounds, and two chile sauces – one fresh, and one cooked (Spicy!!). It was so good we got seconds! We learned that the elder man plays guitar, and he took quite naturally to the ukelele. And we learned that we are welcome back any time, because we loved their food.

Once again, Indonesians have proven that the world is a kind place. I like the people here a lot. The critters and the weather, not as much. They have mosquitoes and moths, some malaria and dengue, and jellyfish that I seem to be both attracted and allergic to. And it never stops being humid, even up in the mountains where the air is cool. But it seems safer and cleaner than India, so I travel with less paranoia for germs and dirty water. (The rural folks here boil their water before drinking it, yay!) I do miss Rachel though – we’re traveling separately this week, she with Anika and me with Paloma – and I’m excited to reunite with her in 3 days. Until then I’ll stay away from the bugs and try to talk to as many kind people as I can.

Rocket Flores

A little bit of sickness is tolerable. At this point, after 7 weeks in developing Asia, it is standard. Feeling moderately sick is not. Yesterday was tolerable. Today, I think all the nice bacteria in my gut are working overtime to keep their host alive, and just to make sure I get the message they are telling me loud and clear to stop eating anything at all.

They told me last night to skip dinner and go to bed early. Did I listen? We went to the home of our guide Marino who had gathered his family in his late mother’s house for a backyard celebration. We had already been to the stilted fishing village, an unusual neighborhood of former Sulawesi immigrants who craft their homes and walkways out of bamboo piles buried in the tidal mud. “I would trust any boat captain from Sulawesi. They are very good,” Marino told us. They are Muslims, and evening prayers droned from the mosques, a man’s voice overpowering a more melodic woman’s. Families and children lined the streets and we met dozens of happy and smiling locals, delighted with a mud puddle for entertainment. At the market we picked up a fish and struggled not to buy the local toy from the happy vendor who peddled brightly colored baby chicks. The size of our fish should have told me that it would be a big party.

 

 

So we traveled through the hills into the suburb of nori to Marino’s home town. In Flores they bury their parents in their front yard, a way to keep the family together. Marino’s mom had passed only 3 weeks ago, and the soil and cross over her were still fresh. We were welcomed into a humble living room and sat for a few minutes while Marino went in back. “Where is everyone,” I eventually asked, and we were cautiously invited to the back yard.

That’s where the party was. About nine people sat around a couple ground fires, warming to cook our dinner. Families live close by here and people gather daily to enjoy each other’s company. We were accompanied by five dogs, two pigs, three goats, and a tiny, mangy cat who ruled the roost. Overhead a steel roof kept us safe from storms, and in the near distance stood a forest of towering banana trees.

Once the fires were hot Paloma volunteered to help cook. She deep-fried some chicken in a work over one fire, firmly supported by 3 tinder blocks, while Marino put our big fish on the other grill. Coconut husks burn hot, it turns out.

We learned some local tips. If you are ever thirsty, cut down a banana tree and hollow out the trunk. In the morning you will have a big puddle of water waiting for you. For locals who do not have access to fresh water, this is their survival mechanism in the dry season.

If you need to buy some pants and want to know if they fit, but there is no changing room, you can button them and see how the halved waist fits wrapped around your neck. It works! Now I know that my neck’s circumference is half of my waist’s. And I am told it works even if you are heavy.

If you want the best coconut rice in Asia, have some of Valentina’s turmeric coconut rice, which she makes in an enormous pot, and only for special occasions. Valentina is a great cook.

We learned how to fry green bananas. There is a variety the locals in Flores enjoy green. It is peeled with a knife and sappy fingers, kept fresh in a bowl of water, and sliced thinly on a mandoline straight into a wok of hot oil. They bubble and curl until they are desiccated, and come out ready for adornment with flaky salt, a bright reminder to your tongue of the sea. They are neither sweet nor starchy, a sort of neutral crunch that makes you wonder why we don’t eat them at home.

We headed back to the Sea World Resort and Spa for a night’s sleep, although our hosts would have been happiest had we stayed all night. Paloma noted that any old place sounds fancy when you call it a resort and spa, and we considered renaming our house to the Van Auken Resort and Spa when we get home. Today we travel to Bali, and t ought to Sydney, one day closer to being home and only one day away from Western Civilization.

Maumere, Flores.

Part 1: Getting There

We motor to another deserted tropical island to snorkel in pristine water and explore white sand beaches. Someone’s image of paradise, or perhaps their antidote to cold winters and too much work. I enjoy the beauty and the amazing colors of the ocean wildlife, and treasure time with my daughter. But the tourism photos fail to communicate the constant humidity and deafening diesel engine that sits a meter from my head. It drones on at an unbelievable volume, having been liberated of its muffler to explode a belly full of fuel with unrestrained force. The holes in the sides of my head are stuffed with insulating foam to deafen the air vibrations that shake my whole body, my own personal muffler.

Paloma and I chose two more days of Flores over an early return to Bali to reunite with Rachel and Anika. Our program shimmered with possibilities of snorkeling, a relaxing afternoon on a beach, a trip to a local fishing village and elementary school, and dinner at the home of our guide, whose brother will teach us how to cook Indonesians style. Nostalgia is my friend and I’m sure I will remember the hue of the crystal waters over the shaking of the truck engine that drives this boat, reliving selective memories through photographs. And I will treasure another visit to local children to see how their days are in some ways the same, and in other ways so very different from our own. At very least we will be grateful for those things we have — as Paloma said to me today, we feel more grateful for things when we live without them for a little while.

Part Two: The Reef and the Sand Bar

When airline companies sell you a plane ticket, they don’t show you a photo of your seat on the airplane. Or the airport. Almost nobody likes those places. They show you the picture of the tropical island. It’s the experience you are paying for.

Yesterday was the best snorkeling of my life. A sunken atoll encirlcled the deep-sea beneath our now-quiet fishing boat, creating a pristine caldera for millions of fishes and corals to live upon. I always loved gazing at tropical aquariums as a child, and now I was inside all of them put together, with surprises around every turn. Did you know corals sway in the breezes of the ocean currents? Did you know sea stars come in bright blue, and sometimes have 4 arms? At only a couple of meters deep, all the colors of the reef glistened in front of us.

After exploring the richness of the reef we broke for a trip to the sand bar. Beneath the aquamarine waters rested a submerged spit a half km long with a lone mangrove tree decorating it, the elevation of its leaves indicating that we had several more hours until high tide. “Dad, take artsy photos!” she commanded, so I grabbed Paloma’s camera, walked out to the tree and got down low. I took too many pictures while I squinted in the sunlight at my happy daughter who got her “Instagram worthy” evidence of far-flung adventures.

My tummy is not 100% today. Rocket Flores, they call it – their version of Bali belly, Indonesia’s take on Delhi belly. But I’m glad we stayed. Glad we got on that fishing boat, and glad we visited that reef and that sand bar. And I am looking forward to the things we will discover today. What discomforts will we suffer? And what memories will we keep?

Leaving Bhutan

It was Rachel’s favorite country in Asia (so far).

It was my “Switzerland of Asia.” Mountainous, peaceful, with clean air and kind people, keeping separated from the hustle-and-bustle of the continent.
I remember…

  • Big mountains.
  • Beautiful buildings.
  • Kind people everywhere.
  • Clean air.
  • River rafting, and how Rachel had such a good time. And I thought she didn’t like boats!
  • Our very kind and very Buddhist guide Namgay, who had such a subtle way of telling us what to do.
  • A delicious home cooked meal at the farm house in Paro, and how our host made chile-cheese in front of us.
  • Red chiles drying on the roofs of steel-topped farm houses everywhere.

And…

Bhutan / Google Photos

Trekking for 4 days

Originally there were supposed to be 6 of us on this trip. Grandpa Tim and Misha had helped plan it, and they made it very active. In order to do less driving, and more sightseeing, we had signed up for a 4 day Himalayan trek from the capital city of Thimpu to the town of Paro. Tim and Misha had to cancel their trip because Tim crushed a disk in his back, and was in too much pain to travel. So the 4 of us headed up to the monastery for the first night of the trek.

When we were planning the trip, I did not understand why camping costs more than staying in town. When we got there, it all made sense. We were on the “luxury camping” program, which included our guide Namgay, a cook, 4 horse men, and 13 mules. Wow, what an entourage. They do tourism with a high level of support in Bhutan! Anyhow, we set out on our first day, with a 3 hour, 5 km hike up to a monastery. Why so slow, I wondered? Well, it was steep. And the altitude was high. We headed up to our camp site, at a modest 3,600 m altitude. That’s about 11,800 ft! And more than we were ready for. Rachel promptly got symptoms of altitude sickness – a splitting headache that would not go away. We decided to spend the night and see if it passed. Our guide took it very seriously, and went to consult with the head Abbott at the monastery next door. A half hour later, Namgay poked his head in our tent and asked if we would like to go to the monastery for some wheat porridge and to rest. Rachel said she had just gotten comfortable in bed, and we had already eaten. Namgay asked again two times – his form of “insisting” – and Rachel, who had noticed more quickly than I that this was his form of “we are going!,” agreed to head over.

New photo by Hayes Raffle / Google Photos

I joined her some time later. Apparently the Abbott wanted to host us in the monastery for the night. He felt Rachel would be safer if she did not get too cold, so he offered the guest house to us. I went over to check in on Rachel. She was huddled in the corner of a large wooden room with a bowl of porridge in front of her, and a few monks in red robes surrounding her, milling about. She spoke to an older monk, who spoke good English, the head abbot I would later learn. I spent some time with her, and Namgay insisted that we stay in the guest house, on the orders of the abbot. Rachel was too full or sick to eat the porridge, although she described it as “perfect.” I went down the hill to inspect the guest house, which was lovely, and quickly agreed it would be a better night’s rest than staying in sleeping bags in our tents. I went to fetch the children.

It’s hard to overstate the relative comfort of a flat bed on a flat wooden floor, and a shelter that does not go “whoop” in the wind. Rachel woke at 3 am when the Tylenol wore off, but agreed to wait till morning to head down the mountain. At sunrise, my over tired girls headed around the corner one by one to the attached outhouse for the morning business and oohed and aahed at the sunrise, lighting the valley fog like a billowing blanket of white sheltering the land below us. We admired the golden hour as it lit up the monastery on the hill above us, and waited for the mountain to warm up.
Rachel headed down with Bahrain (“brain”) as soon as everyone was awake. Paloma considered going with her, but decided to trek on with us. Mistake. After 2 hours of painfully slow ascent toward our pass at 4,200 m, her headache was also splitting. On Namgay’s good advice, she headed down too, to meet her Mom in town and recover. Anika and I continued with Namgay, trusting Paloma in Bahrain’s capable care (he had already run down and up the hill to meet us again, having delivered Rachel to our driver Dashi…what an athlete!).

New photo by Hayes Raffle / Google Photos
New photo by Hayes Raffle / Google Photos

Anika and I continued up to the pass, a bit more quickly now that our suffering companion was heading the other direction. Anika had a burst of steam and we pushed up to the top in under an hour, and enjoyed the awesome view over the valley. There was no going back once we descended the back side, a succession of rolling hills that approached our second camp site next to a small lake. Five hours of hiking lay ahead of us, and we happily bounced towards our camp, Anika so happy to have her Daddy with her.
We learned a couple things our first night: get your warm clothes on right away when you arrive. Your body heat leaves quickly up at altitude, as Anika curiously noticed when she told me “I don’t know if I’m warm or if I’m cold.” We warmed her up eventually, parking her next to the barely-working gas heater in the dining tent (did I mention we were on the luxury program?). We also learned that our tent was not built for wind. That night the winds picked up strongly, billowing up to about 30 kts at times. I staked our tent down differently to try to prevent the fly from flapping against the tent all night – I could barely sleep – and somehow it made it through the night. In the early morning, when Anika went to the toilet tent, she learned what it means to “turn the fan up to 11” as the whole tent blew off of her, showing her 11 year old bum to… the horses and sleeping dog. Our dining tent blew open a few times too, its walls giving way to the Himalayan storm.

New photo by Hayes Raffle / Google Photos

Fortunately it was a dry storm. We saw only a few flakes of snow and pieces of hail. Everyone survived the second night, and after a hearty breakfast we headed on for another 20 km day.

Anika was more tired the second day. We meandered up and down some hills, and over a second pass where we could view the high mountains of Bhutan in the distance. The trail dog who found us after our first night joined us again, and we found yaks and other wildlife as we trekked. I got a bit worried about the time. While Ani was in great spirits, I heard many warnings from Namgay that we were behind schedule. I didn’t want to hike in the dark, so I started pushing her uphill at times to help her move along. “Silicon Valley parents are known for pushing their kids,” we joked. But it helped. After countless rhododendron forests, 10 km on a high ridge trail, and several river crossings, we got to camp just after sunset. We made it through our second and hardest day.

I wasn’t quite sure why our tent was pitched on a hill. Sleeping on a slope is one of my least favorite things, and when I realized that our dining tent was on a flat spot, I inquired. The crew thought we’d want to be farther from the kitchen / sleeping tent where it was noisy, and away from any smells that might be near the dining tent, as a previous group had left some kitchen trash on the ground. We tried propping up our cots with rocks to make them level. And we tried again. And we tried a third time. It didn’t really work. They were still sloped quite a lot, and I didn’t look forward to sliding out of bed that night – I wanted us to get a good night’s sleep. After some deliberation, Namgay offered to move the tent. We looked for a new spot but could not find one. Finally we agreed to move it to where the dining tent was pitched.

Thank goodness we did. Anika and I got to sleep late for some reason. Maybe the yak meat we ate for dinner? I don’t know, but I got to practice some ukulele songs, she got to read a book. But finally we slept. Very well. Like those rocks – we didn’t really move. Ahhh, sleep.

Our last morning was mostly downhill, and only about 10 km. At lower altitude the forest turned coniferous with silver firs blanketed by thick green moss. I got a bit tired of seeing trash on the trail, so I started picking up any piece I saw. There wasn’t much at first, but as we got closer to town the density increased. Anika and Namgay got in the spirit and started picking it up too. By the time we got near the bottom, we had about 3 bags full, including a shoe I found, many water bottles, and hundreds of shards of candy wrappers.

Let me just say that down hill is SO much easier than uphill, especially when you’re not really acclimated and every big step to climb is an effort. It wasn’t as easy as we expected, but we made it to a farm house at the bottom of the hill for lunch. We ate our usual fare: lots of rice, sauteed vegetables, some sort of meat, and plenty of sweet tea and water. They gave us these silly polyester scarves as trophies for finishing the hike, and we were pretty happy, and pretty proud of finishing it together. To show for it, Anika and I have lots of pictures of us jumping in the air, and holding hands, and being happy together.

Bhutan / Google Photos

Being in the rice fields of Punakha, and talking to a 17 year old woman who told me her story

She was drying her rice in a friend’s field because hers was on the hill side, and not as sunny – not as good for drying the rice – and she was the youngest of her siblings (were there 10 of them?). She was about 10 years younger than her older sister, whose children were playing with Anika and Paloma. She was in 11th grade, the only person in her town in upper grades, and she dreamed of being a media writer or journalist for the Dzong media channel (basically their public TV station). Her spoken English was excellent, and she said she read books any time she could find time, because the best writers read a lot. Her walk to school was long by our standards, 1 hour each way, probably over a mountain, but she said she was used to it, and it was no problem. I hope she gets into college. It’s gated by an entrance exam, and about 40% of applicants are admitted. If she doesn’t get in, she won’t get to become a professional, because her family can’t afford private college. She would end up a farmer like the rest of her family. I’m hoping for her. She seemed smart and focused and motivated, and I hope her dreams come true.

New photo by Hayes Raffle / Google Photos

Our amazing upgraded hotel room – double suites! – at the Zhiwaling hotel

This was perhaps the most ornate and beautiful hotel I can remember seeing, ever. The Bhutanese have a very simple and gorgeous architectural style, which is used just about everywhere, albeit at different levels of quality and detail. As hotel architecture goes, I like the style of the Post Ranch Inn more, but this place was gorgeous. Zhiwaling had amazing art and murals on the walls, beautiful carved and painted columns to support the building, and lovely details in the rooms, including ornamented ceilings above the tall windows that overlooked the clouded mountains. Also, somehow we got a free upgrade, and after many weeks (months?) of being almost on top of each other in hotel rooms, it was luxury to have 2 large bedrooms with a connecting living room. Oh, and before I forget – the internet actually worked! That was sure nice. Ten out of ten, would definitely stay again.

4 new photos by Hayes Raffle / Google Photos

Coffee: no filter. Smoothee: choco-cado

It is early morning here in Lauban Bajo. In Indonesia they don’t use coffee filters. It’s sort of like Turkish coffee but not quite as strong and maybe more sugar and maybe some sweetened condensed milk. But it’s in my room and it’s waiting for me, and the hot water boiler works, so here I am on cup of coffee number 2 because Paloma and I got to sleep a little too late last night, after deciding at 8:45 that we needed some dinner after all — so we’d better find something. The closest restaurant was 5 minutes down a busy road but they served a pretty mean grilled red snapper which we shared (and enjoyed) as we watched an English soccer game and sipped our fruit juices. Paloma got papaya, and I tried avocado. It came with a hint of chocolate syrup – quite delicious actually – I’ll probably try to make that again when we get home.

 

India: highs, lows, and sillies

Anika

High. First meal
Silly. Catfish temple
Low. All of the temples. Listening to the guides blabbering on about all the artifacts. Having to cover our shoes at the Taj Mahal. Walking around in the heat. 

Rachel

High. Food at Panna
Low. Quality of life for women at Kumbalgarh
Silly. Mayhem of animals, pedestrians, animals, carts, rikshaws,  absolute and complete chaos on the roads
Paloma
High. Seeing all the kids wave to us at the windows. Being so happy to see us
Silly. Seeing the 2 year old girls blow kisses to us. 
Low. Sightseeing in super hot weather 
Hayes
High. Old Delhi. Chaos and how everything worked. Contrast of app the wires and chaos, and the amazing meal. 
Silly. When all the middle school girls had to shake the girls hands.
Low. How scientist at Panna was ignored and forced out. 

Reflections as we leave India, after 2 weeks traveling here

We are about to leave. we wait in the Delhi airport for our flight to Bhutan. Since missing our first flight of this trip to Hawaii, we've arrived very early to each flight since. Three hours early today. Two to deal with the extraordinarily slow and tedious airport security, and an extra one to try to get another 3 window seats on the left side of the plane. We heard from a fellow traveler in Mongolia that this flight — Delhi to Katmandhu to Paro – is one of the most beautiful in the world, because if you are sitting on the left side of the plane, you can see 20 of the 22 highest peaks of the Himalayas. We got two window seats. 

That's probably OK because Rachel's fear of flying has intensified as our travels have progressed. It seems like a fear of heights combined with a deep distrust for being off the ground. She said it really wasn't a problem for her until after having kids, and not even a severe issue until this trip. But window seats are bad for her. She clings my arm in terror with every bump of turbulence, and can't seem to relax. I've suggested drugs, sleep, meditation, earplugs, movies, VR. She refuses basically everything. I dno't know what to do.
India's been hard for her. The reality of child marriages, child widows and the caste system seem to have finally sunk in for her. I think I went through those same horrors after watching Slumdog Millionaire years ago. Somehow that movie didn't sink in for her in the same way, which came clear when she suggested we watch it as a family (I refused). But it became clear here, particularly after spending time in Kumbalgarh with the Me to We project, in which we heard in detail the impact of Hinduism and the caste system on our very lovely hosts, as well as the challenges the women of the rural villages of this secluded mountain town. 
Seclusion has allowed the villagers here to retain an indigenous culture for thousands of years. While they have retained their gods (to a degree) and their customs (to a degree), it has left them as literal outcasts from the mainstream society. Some of the consequences of being outcasts are poor health, nutrition and education — at least compared to their more modern Indian counterparts. 
We visited a local hamlet to help a woman one day, and we met a bunch of local children, since it was a holiday. Everyone is short; even the 14 year olds we met were a head shorter than Anika. The woman we helped has a decent house, with 3 rooms: one for her and her husband, one for children or guests + kitchen, and one for the goats. It's not too bad by local standards, but by "not too bad" I mean that it had a roof and a chimney on the stove, so the kitched did not completely fill up with smoke when she cooked bread. 
The charity we were helping had provided the stove. They also provided education about boiling water to stay healthy. The water of this town is drawn from open wells — picture a big cistern in the ground, with an open top. When it rains, all of the poop in the fields runs off into the wells, and then it is consumed by the villagers. This is, as you can imagine, not too healthy. People get sick often because they don't have a habit to boil the water. They have some other weird habits too. Such as, they don't use bathrooms; they just poop in the fields (they don't dig a hole or anything). Open defecation. I'm used to seeing this with farm animals, and there are many, but not for people. And poop is sort of everywhere. Every month, cow or buffalo poop is mixed with mud to plaster the walls of the house. We did some of this. On the day after Diwali, people make dolls out of poop and place them at their curb to represent their sins, so passers-by can stop out the badness and make it go away. Girls drop out of school at puberty because there are no toilets, and they don't want to do their lady business in front of the boys and teachers. So let's just say they have a very different relationship with poop than we do.
And water. So basic. I am aware that I take it for granted at home, but it really drives that priviledge home when I fear for my health with every shower and every meal. Dont talk in the shower. Don't sing in the shower. Don't breathe through your mouth in the shower (this is hard). At each meal, carefully inquire with the waiter, "is the mint sauce made with regular water, or bottled water?" Inspect the bathrooms of restaurants to get a sense for the cleanliness of the kitchen. And only order vegetarian food, and make sure it's steaming when it arrives. 
So far, we have not gotten really sick here. Rachel and I both had a day or two when we felt a bit off, but we've basically been good. We broke "the rules" at some of the hotels, accepting ice in our drinks after hearing promises it was made with bottled water. And eating some fresh vegetables and even some chicken on two occassions (when we saw it being cooked). The food has been delicious. Like, really, really delicious. I LOVE Indian food. We got a couple lessons, but I think I'll need more hands-on experience with the timings and techniques after we get home. 
I will miss this place. I loved the deep contrasts in Delhi. The delicious food, and the chaos of electrical wires and people. The insane traffic, and how everyone seems to make it work. The cows who own the roads, and the deep love for vegetarian cuisine. The brightly colored saris and the kindness of the people. 
But I'm ready to move on. Ready to hike in clean mountain air. Ready for a cooler climate. Ready not to be so afraid of the water. Ready for basic hygeine to be commonplace. I'm not sure if I'll find it in Bhutan, but I hope so.

Mongolia and India

The world is a kind place. In the past week I’ve traveled from Mongolia to India, from the Gobi Desert to Indian Jungle via busy Asian capital cities. I’ve traveled from snow to blistering heat on the same day, and amidst these contrasts met some of the kindest and most welcoming people I can remember. Perhaps these lands of extremes help to amplify people’s humanity. I’d like to share some things I’ve learned.

Mongolia and India are both huge! But Mongolia is among the most sparsely populated countries in the world with only 2.7 million people, and India is one of the most densely populated countries with nearly 1.3 billion people. Both have long histories. India reaches back thousands of years in its capital alone, and yesterday we stood inside Hindu temples that have been standing for over 1000 years. Mongolia traces its origins back to Chinnghis Khan who united the clans of the steppe almost 800 years ago. Flanking either side of the Himalaya mountains, they countries are close and united in several ways, and worlds apart in others.

Mongolia is cold. Three days ago we awoke to snow and icicles on the ground, as fall was coming. The winter would bring chills of -60 degrees c and nomads would weather the winter with their livestock as they have for generations. Meanwhile, In Delhi, we were greeted the next day to 34 degree weather, a temperate change from the 44 degree summer we missed. The temperature seems to impact everything from culture to population density to clothing and transport and city smells. Do you know cold kills the smells? And lots of people and humidity amplify them? Ulaan Baatar was cold but not so stinky, dominated primarily by the coal smoke. Delhi was dominated by…everything you have ever smelled before in your life, turned up to 11 all at once. Where the Mongolian Steppe demands shelter from the freezing and dust storms, the India Jungle demands shelter from the heat and sun.

Food is a big part of life in both places. Mongolia is a meat lover’s place. Five treasure animals keep people alive: camels, horses, cattle, sheep, and goats form the foundation of life there. In India, plants thrive. The country has the most fertile land on the planet, and with the large population, plants are the major sustenance. The Hindus, who don’t eat meat, have developed the best vegetarian food I’ve ever enjoyed, and we’ve been here only two days! I may eat myself into looking like a dosa!

But in both places hospitality thrives. The people are warm, inviting, and quite genuine. While both countries welcome western culture (and Americans like us who are interested to learn more), they have proud cultures and histories of their own which reign supreme. In both places people have greeted us with smiles, food, and handshakes, although the customs differ. In Mongolia, people shake your hand after bumping in to you, a quick “no offense meant.” In India, people shake your hand just for being there, “thank you for coming to my country, and welcome!”

Both countries are still developing, and are not super rich. But they have rich people and rich natural resources which are being used. Mongolia has the world’s larges gold and copper mines, and is a major source of other metals and minerals. India hosts the world’s largest diamond mine. Both are rich in agriculture and support their people with a high degree of autonomy. Their lands make both countries strong.

My hope is to get to know some people in both countries a bit better, over time. This may happen in days or years to come, but I am open. Both lands seem to brim with hospitality and possibility, and have so much to teach me.

how mongolia is different from India

  • populated / not populated
  • colorful / spare
  • humid / dry
  • people shake your hand to say hi / people shake your hand to say sorry
  • vegetables rule / meat rules
  • plant farmers / meat farmers
  • families live in the same home for 9 generations, or 400 years / families are nomadic and move around (although in fairness land rights are inherited so maybe that’s similar)
  • it is hot! / it is snowing!
  • south of the himalaya / north of the himalaya
  • celebrates diversity / celebrates unity (e.g. chingghis khan)
  • 2 seasons / 4 seasons
  • jungle / desert
  • dominantly religious (80% hindu) / 57% atheist
  • you have to look for the animals who are hiding / the animals fly to you
  • super strong smells / not so smelly, but rather quite dusty
  • very modernized / very traditional and not so developed

how India and Mongolia are the same

  • people are very welcoming and kind
  • we have had wonderful guides in both places
  • long histories
  • both have suffered multiple invasions and occupations due to the wealth of their lands (india: agriculture / mongolia: metals and trade routes)
  • smoggy capital cities
  • food is rich and diverse, but healthy and filling. both have strong culinary traditions and have not been overwhelmed by western tastes.
  • for both, the US is not the major cultural influence. India seems to have a very strong cultural identity of its own, as does mongolia.
  • both cultures seem strongly connected to their land
  • both are in asia
  • multiple languages and cultures thrive in both countries. there is an appreciation and tolerance for the diversity, amidst common goals to unify people around language and civic identity.
  • both capital cities are completely overloaded with people. there is smog, traffic, chaos at times, and people spend more time commuting than they wished. Did both cities’ urban planners ignore demographics? were demographics wrong?
  • in both places, natural resources are being actively used. mongolia has huge copper and gold mines. india has huge diamond mines and poaching of mega fauna like tigers (who we failed to spot today).

Horn Please


This driver is very quiet. The last one…not so much. He honked a lot. There were cows in the road, people in the road, children in the road. Oncoming traffic in the road. And slow people to pass. Lots of reasons to honk.

I wondered how much he was honking, so I counted honks for 20 minutes. Guess how many times he honked in an hour? Really, take a moment. Guess.

285 honks per hour.

There seemed to be some rules, or patterns at least:

  • If you are passing someone, honk continuously until you are out of the blind spot.
  • If there are animals or children ahead, honk so they don’t walk in front of you.
  • If you are driving through a town, honk so people know you are coming.
  • If you want to drive faster, honk so people get out of your way
  • If someone is driving right at you, honk so they know you mean business. This was quite often since our road was usually only 1.5 cars wide and we shared it with big trucks.
  • If you are going around a bend, honk so people know you are coming.

In truth there were a lot of sacred cows in the road, looking for a passerby to make some wind to blow the flies off their backs. We wondered how many cows there were, so we counted these too. Guess how many.

235 cows per hour.

Granted, they were not all in the road. But they could have been.

Tigers of the Emerald Forest

“It really is a very educational movie,” our hostess said to Rachel when we declined to watch in favor of trying to catch up on our ongoing academics. My rare and hopeful attempts to keep my girls’ minds from wandering too far from the 3 R’s kept getting interrupted by thing more urgent or unique than book material.

“They are waiting for us,” Rachel said, so we wrapped up our thought, slipped into our sandals and headed through the tall narrow double doors that sealed our mud hut from the elements. The sinuous path to the communal area felt farther away on account of the tall grasses that hide it from view, but in a moment we approached Joanna who greeted us. “Oh good, I’m glad you came.”

The few guests at Sarai at Toria were gathered on comfortable couches around a small TV that had been brought in for the occasion. My family joined Karen, a travel writer who was helping contribute to a book on Indian eco lodges. BBC, the film opened, and the sound system was surprisingly good given the relative lack of technology at the lodge.

As the film began I recognized voices. And then faces. Many years younger, but the same ones as our hosts. Joanna and Raghu, our hosts, were not your average hoteliers, nor even your average conservationists, it turned out. They were the storytellers of this film, the main characters who started to teach us about the Tigers of Panna. What were these animals’ habits? Who were their families? What of their loves, concerns, friends and enemies? Raghu unfolded the rich society of tigers to us as a world expert might do. We were staying with scientists, with celebrities, and the most humble sort, the sort who don’t bother to tell you, “this is our film.”

I’m really not a huge nature documentary guy, but…this film. Full of details and drama. And aftermath. Emerald Forest tells the story of a rising tiger population, but shortly after it was released tragedy befell Raghu and the tigers. Poachers hit the park hard, for year after year. Raghu, who sounded the alarm in Delhi, was summarily ignored, and then fired, until almost every tiger was dead. Authorities offered innocuous excuses and covered up the atrocities while they slowly rebuilt the population with imported animals that are today guarded by camera traps and rangers in watch towers and Jeeps. Authorities have relocated local farmers and their livestock from the park, to protect both cows and tigers from their incompatible ways of life. 

And Raghu and Joanna support their conservation efforts in a more indirect way. I was told by another guest that they lost their scientific jobs, their funding, and the tigers they loved. But they did not lose their love of these large and graceful cats, and now they share it with unwitting guests like us who happen upon their graceful Sarai at Toria, an oasis in the jungle. With good food and a gentle nudge to watch an educational film and drive around the park with one of their expert guides, they have made a bit of an activist out of me, a guy who never really cared about tigers until now. 

We leave Panna today but our stay here will stay with me. I will spend my days thinking and hoping for the tigers. Hoping they survive a few more generations. Hoping that they outrace the poachers in a world where human competition seems to consume any animal unlucky enough to be both slow to reproduce and a bit too valuable to our destructive species.

First time in Delhi

People said it would be overwhelming. But words are just a poor representation of sensation. I can’t explain what it’s like to smell that many smells at the same time. I can’t explain that a single smell, like the one from the tree outside our room, smelled like horse manure to me, but like perfume to our hotelier. I can’t explain the visceral sensation of being surrounded by blaring horns in a crowded auto-rickshaw in a crowded intersection in a crowded area of a crowded city. I can’t explain the awe and mystery of seeing so many different people and feelings and sensations at once.

I can tell you about the streets. How I saw people get hit but not hurt. How our rickwhaw driver caught tangled with a man pulling a hand cart through the street, where everyone was moving at a slow walking pace. How the street is shared by pedestrians, auto-rickshaws (basically the tuk-tuks we saw in Thailand, but much cleaner and quieter, required to burn compressed natural gas), bicycle rickshaws, hand rickshaws, cars, trucks, bicycles, scooters, motorcycles and the occasional ox-cart.

In Old-Delhi they protect you from the poop on the narrow street by covering it with a thin veil of newspaper, and you are grateful when your awesome guide Gagan pulls you aside so you miss it. The street is narrower than most sidewalks you have known, and it is shared by school children coming home and motorcycles honking and zipping past. Electrical wires are slung between anything that will hold them overhead, like a mess of spaghetti thrown at a child’s messy room. Or perhaps a yarn fortress woven by jubilant four year olds playing fairy make-believe. It’s a mess, but it works. Everyone has power. There are no electical fires or calamities. And people are calm and kind.

The sidewalks inside and outside Old Delhi are packed with people shopping for Duvali, the festival of lights, which will begin in about a week. The air is full of smoke from the surrounding farms who are burning their stubble to prepare for next season’s planting. And from the cars. And from the fireworks whose sale and purchase has just been banned in Delhi, much to the sadness of dozens of merchants who sit on the recently emptied sidewalks with downturned heads and sorrowful expressions below signs “no cell phones” in hopes perhaps of a contraband sale. The retail stores couldn’t be smaller, and they compensate with bling and flare. One nut shop (among dozens of seemingly identical ones) is little more than a large set of wedge-shaped counters facing the sidewalk. The three workers who are packed like tree monkeys into the wedge wrap trays of nuts in yellow cellophane in preparation for gift sales for Duvali. The shoppers stream past. 

“How do people choose where to shop?” I asked Gagan, as we browse tea and spices in what might be the world’s finest spice shop. “Oh, you know, price, quality…maybe where they have always shopped.” So, the usual. Same as home. But with 16 million people in Delhi, there seems to be infinite choice, and infinite competition. It might explain how the food is some of the best I’d ever tasted, from the buffalo raita at lunch to the sesame candy from the street vendor in old Delhi. And how a single day seems to have filled my mind with a lifetime of senstaions. And how Gagan might feel lonely when he goes to a place that is not bustling with so much activity that it literally pushes you from all sides with all 5 senses.

In the Indian jungle, near the Panna tiger reserve

New photo by Hayes Raffle / Google Photos

​I am…sitting on a swinging couch next to the cleanest river in India.

I see the bright risen sun through the tree arbor. I see layers of pastel hills and river reflections muddied by the damp humidity. I see my daughter slumped in a caned recliner writing in her own notebook.

I hear a dozen different birds in the trees around me. Crickets chirping in the head-tall grasses that line the pathways to our cottage. Calls of the birds that fly downstream. The whiteness of the waterfall who hides behind the tree trunk.

I taste the grit of a morning french press coffee lining the back of my bottom teeth. 

I smell Indian humidity, thick like a whipped buttercream fog. I smell fragrant plants bursting from the jungle that hosts lives with whom I’ve never been acquainted.

I feel hot and sticky and sore from a restless nights sleep, awoken dozens of times by the fast and unbalanced fan who droned throughout the hours. I feel tired of wearing the same shirt that is acceptable but not ideal for the Indian air. I feel challenged by the various needs of my family, all with their own challenges and frustrations and desires and all looking to me for guidance. I feel lucky to be here, knowing that my best memories are often hardest earned, the challenging parts where I solved a problem or suffered through a struggle, and I hope, hope, that we are stronger and wiser and grateful for this chapter when we reflect on it as older selves.

Mongolia — things I’m grateful for

Golden eagle festival, Ulgii

  1. The people were so kind in Ulgii
  2. Our food was fresh and delicious. Fewer cheese curds, more green veggies
  3. There were two kinds of useful technologies for nomads: electric light and cell phones, mostly for weather forecasts.
  4. Not being nomadic – getting to love my home all year long.
  5. The golden eagles were beautiful and I got to hold them.
  6. My wonderful children. Anika told me, “I like Mongolia…the people are so nice.”
  7. People are so happy even though they have so little, by Western standards.
  8. I met kind and interesting fellow travellers. I enjoyed talking to Peter Coyote (the actor!) about life and media. What a super nice guy – the kids hit it off with him, too. Dick Grace taught me that philanthropy is not about giving or us&them, but about compassion, and truly wanting to connect with someone and share human experience with them.

Gobi Desert

  1. Anika and I flew a kite in the windy Gobi and had fun. We found more wind at the top of the hill the next day and did it again.
  2. I slept poorly because I was cold, but Rachel was kind to me even though I woke up grumpy.
  3. Flush toilets, even in the Gobi
  4. Language translation and being able to talk to people
  5. Comfortable shoes
  6. Anika’s eye got better.
  7. There was a guitar at the 3 Camel Lodge. I don’t remember many songs, but it was fun to play. Anika boasted that I knew 15 songs, and signed me up to perform for the group at the cocktail party at the flaming cliffs. It was actually pretty fun, even though I only played 3 or 4 tunes.
  8. Anika turned 11 and celebrated in 3 time zones (3 days!): New Zealand, Mongolia, USA. She got desserts and gifts and was able to video chat with some of her friends back home, which made her feel so happy.

Visiting a nomadic family


When you are out on the steppe and come across a nomad’s home, don’t be rude – stop in and say hello. They will just stop what they are doing and make you tea, offer cookies and milk curds, sit down with you and talk. They will make you a full meal if you don’t stop them. You will get salty milk tea, which is made with tea from Georgia and lots of milk, probably Camel milk. They will share photos and tell stories. You will offer some candy which they will tuck in a corner of the ger. The lady of the house may be out of sight attending to the cooking and serving. The man of the house may kneel down and offer for you to smell his snuff bottle, which you will receive with an outstretched right arm, your elbow supported by your left hand. You will politely smell the snuff and hand it back to him. You will admire his gold trimmed orange robe which keeps him warm from the desert winds, and say “bai a la,” thank you, before you leave, stooping under the low door frame and carefully steeping over the threshold to avoid bad luck.

The Bold Kea

The Kea sqwerked at me as I opened the car door to explore the chasm near Milford sound (not actually a sound, mind you, but a fjord, I am told). It hopped up to my car door on its hind legs seeming to beg for food. Maybe its near extinction can be blamed on this boldness along with its lack of fear. Naivete, as the cruel might call it.

New Zealand used to be a land of birds. There were no mammals until we people brought them on boats. No possums to kill the birds. No people to kill the birds. No rats or weasless to kill the birds. So they learned to be kind, to be trusting.

It is not the same as being fearless. Fearless implies courage, being brave amidst known danger. It is not the same as naivete, an almost stupidity as if you chose not to pay attention to the dangers around you. It is innocence. Simple trust and kindness. A hop and a sqwak and a look in the eye and a tap on your tush as you crouch down to take a photo. A “look at me” sense of pride, and a curiosity and openness to others.

New Zealand is more careful now. Immigration officials guard their borders jealously from inbound predators. As tourists we were warmly greeted but severely cautioned of the penalties for bringing in pests. Our shoes must be scrubbed of foreign dirt. Our overhead bins and our flight cabin was fumigated with poisons to kill any uninvited insect passengers. Dogs with keen noses patrolled the airports to catch intruders hosted by the Indian grandmother in front of us who hid home made dosas in her luggage. 

But well wishers be damned. A Chinese tourist managed to import a fruit fly that ravaged last year’s kiwi fruit crop. And non-native evergreen trees cover the mountain sides, at once a threat to native species and a cash crop critical for the timber industry and the nation’s builders. The Kea may be a beloved emblem of New Zealand’s past, but it exists not only because the world is protecting it, but because it is surviving as the world changes around it.

On a New Zealand Sheep Farm

Day 4 on the New Zealand sheep farm continues with our hosts Nic and Andy, their boys Alex and Jamie, and their parents (whose house we are actually sleeping and eating in) Jim and Margaret. We are lucky their parents are neighbors, and doubly lucky they had 4 spare beds in their homes and welcomed complete strangers into their home for almost a week. Andy has to work every day on his family farm, which he now runs (with help from his dad Jim), but is an amazing teacher, and constantly invites us to join the more fun parts of farm life and explains it all to us as we’re going, always with a smile and an inviting tone. The parents’ house was their parents’ house, where they grew up. Paloma sleeps in Jim’s childhood bed. But it has “all the modern conveniences” despite being old.

The connection is Ella, Paloma’s best friend. Ella’s dad is Glenn, Glenn’s sister is Nic. Nic married Andy. Andy brought them back to the family farm. And they invited us in. I’m not sure if they were initially expecting us for 5 days, but they kindly agreed to have us. So now, here we are together. I didn’t yet know the rhythm of our trip, and that 5 days would be a long time. But then I’m sure it will feel short in hindsight when we’re on our way to Hawke’s Bay tomorrow. I’ve noticed a few things so far.

Indoors

  • The doorknobs only turn one way.
  • The shower head is low, and I have to sit on my knees to wet my hair
  • Water is scarce here – it is all collected rainwater – and we use it thoughtfully
  • It has rained nonstop – well, with some brief sunny spells – and has been cold here, about 3-8 degrees
  • I think we are using more heat than normal. But now we’re not cold at night! Space heaters and heated blankets get the job done.
  • The laundry detergent doesn’t really rinse out entirely with the econo-rinse setting. But using almost no detergent works ok.
  • Some of the furniture is 3 generations old, and some, like the kitchen table, looks brand new under all the coverings.
  • There’s an awesome system for drying the laundry (if it’s too wet to hang it outside on the back yard laundry lines): dirty farm clothes get hung up in the car port to dry for reuse (why wash muddy outerwear every day?). Clean clothes first go on the foldable laundry rack and put near the wood stove. Next, they can get moved to the heater closet, and finished on one of the hanging rods in there, which is very dry inside. It’s basically full of clean, dry laundry. No dryer required.
  • The kitchen is Margaret’s, but she’s been generous enough to share it with us as if that weren’t true.
  • There has been a wonderful farm meal every night, bringing all 3 families together. Always the centerpiece is an amazing piece of meat (or 2, or 3) from the farm. We started with a lamb roast. One night we had 3 lasagnas! The veggie one was mostly ignored. 🙂 I cooked some farm beef as a bourguignon and made a potato/leek soup. Last night we had chicken, and farm venison (hunted by Andy and Alex), as well as some sausages (both venison and beef).
  • The internet connection here is often better than the one at home!

Outdoors

  • The ewes are making babies! Some of the rams made big babies, and sometimes the moms can’t get them out and they need help “lambing.” Pulling on the hooves helps them get unstuck from the cervix, and then you can pull them out by their hooves. I helped Jim with one of these lambs, but we had to chase the mom and catch her first. (A ewe that is giving birth – with a lamb hanging halfway out her back side – can run faster than I can. Crazy!) Once birthed, the lamb’s hooves are put into mom’s mouth so she can taste her baby, and remember it later.
  • There are a lot of dead babies littering the paddocks. It’s sort of raw and hard to see that death is part of life, and part of farming. I guess after you get used to the idea, and realize that many of the dead are twins, it gets a bit easier. But it’s sad, and also not very economical to lose a lamb.
  • A dead lamb fetches $1 for its hide. A live one will fetch $100 for its meat when it’s mature.
  • If a lamb sits halfway out of a birthing mom for too long (like a couple days) it will start to rot and the mom can die. Andy drives around every day to see if any ewes and babies need help.
  • New moms will get scared and sometimes abandon their baby. When we let the new mom+baby out of the shed where they stayed warm for the night, we had to put them together forcibly and then walk away to make sure they stayed together.
  • It has been cold and rainy here, which makes it harder for the babies
  • Sometimes a mom loses her baby and wants to raise one. Another baby may need care (perhaps a twin, perhaps a lousy mom?), so the baby has to be “mothered up” with a different, better mom to help raise it. Here’s how it’s done: the dead lamb of the foster mom is skinned, and the skin is tied over the body of the living baby lamb. Then the mom, smells her “own” lamb on the skin, and will start feeding the foster lamb. Once she has been feeding her foster lamb for a few days, the skin of her own dead lamb is removed, and she will keep raising the new one. This approach works for cows and calves too.
  • Andy’s 4×4 truck – a.k.a a “Ute” (utility vehicle) can drive over nearly anything, including the deep, deep mud that surrounds many of the fields.
  • Cows really tear up the earth. These cows eat swedes (rutabagas) in the winter, which is grown as a winter crop. The swedes were protected by an electric fence, and 2 days ago we removed the fence and let the excited cows into the field (some smart ones had already broken in). They loved the fresh greens. The mud they left behind was over 1/2m deep in areas!
  • We’re on the windward side of an active volcano and the weather is tough – cold, and very wet.
  • The local kids go to the ski field one day a week and learn to ski and snowboard. We saw them yesterday when we were sledding there!
  • electric fences and tractors are the most awesome modern technology on the farm. and dirt bikes too, which are faster and cheaper than horses or utes for herding sheep.
  • sheep dogs come in 2 varieties: noisy dogs that bark and move the sheep, and silent ones that run and stare down the sheep to get them to move. A shepherd and 3 dogs can move 3000 sheep.
  • sheep come in 19 varieties! some grow better wool (merino). some grow better meat. some have twins. some shed their wool and don’t need to be shorn. Only a few of these breeds live on this farm, though.
  • an experienced shearer can grab a sheep, put it on its tush so it relaxes, and shear all its wool in a couple minutes
  • I helped a bit with building a new fence that is mandated by an eco law designed to keep cattle out of the rivers. Good idea to keep the water clean, but the government only pays for 1/2 the cost of the fence. It’s expensive for the farmers to comply with this new law
  • In general farming is a tough business where you don’t get many days off and don’t really make much money. A lot of the success or failure of the business is at the mercy of the weather, which is out of your control

Overall I feel lucky we’ve gotten to experience a bit of farm life here in Raetihi. While it’s sort of “the middle of nowhere” by most local people’s description, I expect it will be one of the more memorable parts of our trip to New Zealand. I will certainly think of this place every time I eat New Zealand lamb from now on. 🙂

Now, for some photos.

Jim and I help this mama with lambing. The baby was too big to push out on her own. After we chased her down, Jim tackled her, and I held her down while Jim pulled the baby out by its hooves. The baby perked up after a bit, and mom was given a taste of its hooves to remember it later. A day later, they were doing well together. (I pulled a different lamb out of a different mom – but sadly, that one did not make it.)

The cows dig in to some swedes (rutabagas) after we let down the electric fence. Moooo!

This area is the carrot capital of New Zealand, so of course they have a “carrot park” in the local downtown.

It’s fun to ride on a motorbike with Andy!

This is how it feels to drive Andy’s tractor.

The local volcano features a ski field. We went sledding and bumped into the local 8th graders who had met our girls when they were visiting their class on Monday.

At the bottom of the volcano there’s a sort of almost-tropical rainforest where we took a hike. Big ferns abound!

We take the ute down to the river with the boys and skip stones on the water. They take our picture before we head back.

Our hosts joined us for a final meal at a local restaurant: From the left, Jim and Margaret, Nic and Andy, and their kids Jamie and Alex.

Pearl Harbor. Thanks, Tim.

I hadn’t really realized what a good historian Tim is. I asked Misha if we should have him be our guide in Pearl Harbor, or do a tour. Laughing, she said, “Well, he already corrected one of the facts on the summary of the tour, so I think maybe we should just listen to him.” We took a taxi across town and he lined us up in front of some sign with pictures on it. He started to tell us about Japan and the US, and the Pacific. And it was HOT! After a couple minutes we moved to the shade – and I’m glad we did, because we were there, talking, for an hour!

So let’s see how much I learned. I’m going to try to recap what I gathered from our history lesson…. Tim explained Japan had a modern army, had learned from the French, Germans and Prussians how to do modern warfare – and were systematically taking over the APAC region. Manchuria, China, and on and on. Their Samurai warrior class demonstrated Japan had a deep history of warfare and knew how to fight.

The Japanese had allied with the Nazis, and when the Nazis conquered the French, Germany put their own governments into French Indochina. Japan had wanted those territories for a long time, and after Germany took away France’s authority in those areas, Japan thought it was a good time to go try to take control of French Indochina, and expand their empire further into the South Pacific. The US, who had been supplying a lot of oil to Japan, didn’t like the idea of Japan getting so large in the Pacific area. So, the US government stopped selling oil to Japan in order to slow the expansion of the Japanese empire. We also moved our Pacific fleet to Hawaii in preparation to defend our Pacific territories like the Philippines and Midway Island.

The Japanese had seen examples of successful surprise air raids to take out an opponent’s forces (can’t remember where), and adopted this idea for Pearl Harbor. They were afraid the US would not let them expand their empire, so the Japanese military planned a surprise attack on the naval forces in Pearl Harbor. They thought a weakened US military would give them a few years’ time to accomplish their goals. They also thought the US might get demoralized from the attacks and sign a treaty with Japan after being so badly wounded. Unfortunately for Japan, the opposite happened. The event formally launched the US into the war, and less than 4 years later, our country dropped two atom bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki. They suffered four hundred thousand casualties for the ~3,000 they inflicted on us. Woah. They surrendered the war because they feared the extinction of the Japanese race — their first surrender in the two thousand year history of their people.

I asked Tim why the US occupied the Pacific region in the first place. Why did the US care what Japan was up to in the first place? Why did the US government send all out troops out to Hawaii and threaten them? I noticed he didn’t really talk about it, and the movies at Pearl Harbor didn’t either. He mentioned it would not be discussed at the memorial because a critique of war would be too painful and too sensitive a topic to discuss; people could only bear to remember their lost ones. But he got into it a bit. Tim explained we were allied with the French and Great Britain, so the Nazis were the enemies of our friends. This made Japan our enemy by association. But larger issues of colonialism were also at play, and the US were colonialists too. The US controlled Midway Island, the Marshall Islands, Hawaii, the Philippines, etc. And the US didn’t like the idea of Japan being a colonial power there too. Tim explained there existed really deep seated racism against Asians in the US in those days (really still, but it’s not as strong today, especially where I have lived). He mentioned tariffs and other exclusionary practices specifically aimed at Asian nations and said he thought it stemmed from deep seated bigotry that was common among Americans. We didn’t like the idea of an Asian superpower. I guess maybe that notion has not changed entirely, despite over 75 years since the start of the war. Some progress, but probably not enough.

The girls were great listeners. After the lesson we headed in to the park and miraculously got walk-in tickets, despite it being after 11 am already. We spent some time looking at the USS Missouri and having a quick guided tour there before watching the memorial movie. The movie consistently put images to many of the things Tim had already taught us, and added a rather somber tone of loss to the experience, a reminder we were about to see a war memorial. Then we embarked on a short boat ride to the memorial, a hauntingly simple and tasteful hallway slumped over the USS Arizona which it commemorated. We spent our time there, considered the ship sunken beneath us, the names of the dead engraved on the wall, the throngs of tourists around us, and the gentle Hawaiian breeze that tempered the blistering heat. And then we ambled back to the boat, back to land, off of the naval base, and back to a hopefully peace-full world ahead of us.

The Locks and The Fish Ladder

Juniper was a great tour guide. Give a seven year old a job she can do, and she delivers! It took a bit of convincing to get her to go back to a place she had already been, but when she realized it meant another couple hours playing with Anika, she agreed. We grabbed a lyft to the gates of the park. “This way,” she told us, and walked us through the park towards the locks. 

Impeccable timing. We walked up to the locks just as the last small motor boat was loading in to the small lock, ready to head out to sea. After just a moment’s wait, we saw the back gates close. We ran to the front, ready to see the front gates open and let the boats free. It went down so fast! An elevator for boats, I didn’t realize how simple the locks actually are. I always wondered how they make the boats go up and down, but now that I’ve seen it, it’s so simple! They just let it drain slowly down to the lower water level, and down the boats go down like they are on a big floating elevator. The sea-side gates noisily opened up and let their caged passengers free. 

It took me a minute to figure out how they make the boats go back UP. They just let the lock fill from the higher river, that’s it! So simple. Paloma explained it to me – I think she’s a bit quicker than I am sometimes… 

“Where are the seals?” we asked. Juniper showed us where to look. We walked across the dam looking for them. Down the ramp we went, seeing the pattern of waterfalls on the way down, down to the observation area, like a real-life-wild-salmon aquarium. It was full of fish! We watched them for a while, and as the kids’ teacher this year, I dutifully took advantage of the science lesson splayed out for us on the wall: an illustrated essay about how the fish needed to swim upstream to their birthplace to make their babies. We played popcorn, reading different parts of the lesson. Even Juniper read a bit – the last line – after getting over her initial hesitations. I just remember a little bit: a map showing the 1,700+ rivers in the area. A call to action about how we could help the salmon be safer:

  • Help limit city runoff
  • Use fewer garden chemicals
  • Use soaps with no phosphates
  • Use absorbent mulch, not plastic tarps on the gardens, to help the earth soak up the rains
  • Let trees grow over the rivers, so the fish can stay cool

I’m hoping the girls remember some of that, too. I think they will remember seeing the dozens of fish outside the ladders waiting for the energy to climb one more set of stairs upstream. Lucky for the fish, there were no seals surrounding for them. Just a flowing and peaceful river presenting a journey ahead.

In classic fashion, the journey back was at least as fun as the one there. Juniper showed us the hills across the river that were perfectly set up for rolling. She didn’t manage to convince a slightly tired and grumpy Paloma to climb up to the top, so we settled for a smaller hill with a climbing tree and a decent rolling place. And then the golden hour arrived and we snapped a few pictures of silly kids playing on the goose-poop littered lawn. Ew, gross. But fun! Cartwheels, handstands, fireman weaves, and playing princess in the shadows of the tall trees.

Once again, Seattle delivered.

Chihuly is a Crowd Pleaser

Ok, they guy’s project was to use every color in the arsenal. You’ve got to love that – especially if you’re 10 or 12 years old, and the colors are bright, saturated and glossy like the biggest pieces of candy you’ve ever imagined. The guy is the AC⚡︎DC of the art world: nothing too deep, just pure power, emotion, delight. Go Big or Go Home!

The entrance should warn you, Gardens of Glass is actually a playground: CHILDREN REQUIRED TO ENTER. I thought it was pretty cool, pretty big and grand, but too many years of art school and snobby grown-up critique planted words like “gaudy” in my brain. Kids are the perfect remedy. They don’t have that handicap. They see it fresh, new eyes soaking up the pure chromatic saturation.

But remember, like a playground, approach it from down low. From the ground and it was even bigger, even better. He designed the place to be viewed from 3 feet low. Dale made it larger than life, so get down on the ground and make it larger again.

Go dude, you nailed it. Sometimes too much is too much. And sometimes it’s not. Make it Big, make it crazy, make it horrible, make it beautiful. Use those bright colors. Use all of them, and then envelop us with them.

well that was scary

ok rachel. I’m glad you’re alive. That was a scare yesterday. You bit that spoon in half.

New photo by Hayes Raffle / Google Photos

I did not like that one bit, seeing your body slump on the floor and stop answering me. I was glad to still be in the US, to still have Google health insurance (for a few more days…) to be with friends who can help. I was glad you kept breathing, I was glad you woke up, snapped back out of it and talked to me again. I was glad the EMTs were kind, and careful. I was glad for the people at Swedish Ballard, for Cindy your Nurse, and that we beat the rush. I was glad that the Doctor’s 26 point exam didn’t find anything, and the CT scan didn’t either.

New photo by Hayes Raffle / Google Photos

I was glad you nagged the kids about their manners tonight at dinner, and made a few demands afterwards too. You’re feeling stronger again.

I love you. Please don’t do that again. I want you just the way you are.

Glamping – with crafts!

Ahh, family camp. I sort of thought camp was just for kids until I went to sign up Paloma last year and realized IT’S FOR ME TOO! Unbeknowst to me, my childhood camp, the Bar 717 Ranch, started doing family camp where we could all go together. Now, as sweet as it sounded, I would not have wanted to do this as a kid. My favorite thing about camp was reinventing myself in a safe place where my complicated home life was not a factor. But…Paloma went to both kid camp and family camp with us last year, and she said she’d rather go back only to family camp.

Fewer rules. More play time. Easier.

And that’s what camp seems to be. A whole lot of fresh air and happiness. A clay room, and crafts, and silkscreening, and hiking with sunrises, and swimming in a fresh river every day.

The weird thing is that camp really hasn’t changed at all. I mean AT ALL. The song book has not even been updated. I think the newest tune in there is For What It’s Worth, which was written in…1967? Anyway, the hippies got their way up there. Tie die still rules the roost.

But I love it. Peace and love and lots of fresh air. Nice people to help cook and clean and sing with us and make it fun and easy.

What a nice way to start this trip. Fun and easy. And together, with my girls. <3

Now for some photos:

Before leaving: one last selfie on the back yard trampoline.

Paloma finds a happy barn cat.

The chickens are feathered.

Anika holds no reservation to get up and dance during the camp songs. Too much sugar? Nah…

Anika’s newest best little-brother-she-never-got, Stone.

The smoke rolled in sometimes from Oregon fires, making unreal morning sunrise colors.

Paloma took this upside down photo in the pond one morning on the walk from our sleeping platform to the meal platform.

Anika is truly un-talented, as shown in her fabulous performance of “meow.”

 

We milked the goat. The baby still posed with us even though we stole her breakfast.

Anika composes “meow” with Illa.

And the big swing was…big.

An afternoon with Paloma.

The swim hole was always the perfect temperature for a swim, especially on really hot days.

My sunglasses match the local nuts!

The hike up Gates mountain was not really on a trail so much as a fire break. And it was steep. Really steep. For a really long time. We had to slide down at times….

Previous hikers’ support message, 1/4 mile from the top.

The sun is rising!

And we hike.

And we hike.

Stopping points on the way to gates. A teepee, cool. A fresh water spring, yum.

Farm dinner at the river!

Ropes course with Anika: The Flying Squirrel. Have you ever done that? You run, and then as you’re diving off the edge of a hill, your 22 friends pull you up about twenty feet into the air and you just start flying. It was REALLY fun.

Sunday morning breakfast was so fun we did it twice! On Tuesday morning I got inspired to make “french apples” as a counsellor called them, fried on the wood fired grill and later turned into a pancake.

Paloma crafts a bowl.

That pig would snort back every time I snorted at it.

 

My horse Sage was super big and super awesome. So nice. Probably all of the hearts on her bridle.

My girls on horses, off to the river for a swim.

This is what happens to your car when you space out and drive off the cliff. This happened on wednesday morning at 5 am. Yikes. Guy climbed out alive – amazing.

Boat race!

Mini Crockie! Anika could not bring her lovie on our trip because it’s too big, and too old (it was mine, and my sister’s and my mom’s, so it’s seen a long life of love). So, I decided to up my dad-game and make a mini lovie for anika’s journey.

At the eating platform, enjoying one final delicious farm meal together.

total solar magnificence

I can’t stop thinking about the corona. I think that’s what it’s called. The sun, when it was fully obscured, looked like it was billowing with cotton candy, streaming out from the glowing ring in long wispy strings of white. I guess they are always there, but we can’t see them. What other amazingly beautiful things in nature’s creation can’t we see?
I was surprised by a few things. How long it took: hours! How weird the darkness was: like dark gray sunglasses. How much more fun the anticipation was, than the second half: like childhood versus old age. How very cold it got: cold enough that Rachel got her jacket. And how completely spectacular the eclipse was: the enormity of it; how big the sun seemed with the corona; how much the sky seemed more alive during the sun’s partial death than it usually does in the bright, too-glaring-to-watch daytime that I love thoughtlessly each day.
If I could witness that every day, I would do it. I would stop everything I was doing and stare at the sun for those two minutes and try to drag them to eternity in my memory. Try to burn the details of the rapidly changing skyscape into my visual memory for my eternity.
There are no photos, no videos, no records that quite capture it. It was too much. Too dynamic. Too unique for human representation.

xmas in s africa

A decision made!
My rationale, just sort of "thinking out loud": 
  • we'd never go there on a normal holiday break
  • our friends are super comfortable in Africa, so that will be a treat to be there with them
  • other friends we've traveled with told us we'd love cape town, and I believe them. ? 
  • I think it will be interesting and different from home, but easy too (speak english, things will be familiar enough) so we can relax
  • looks like great waves for the girls, and plenty of other things to do for the group. the girls can wear wetsuits.

east or west…

which way should we go? Here’s a link to an interactive map you can play with.
A main thing on my mind with the planning is, will we have breaks when we want them, so we don’t get too worn out? Here are the plans so far, with what I expect will be the harder parts in bold.

The original plan: head east

  1. Iceland. Hiking, crazy landscapes. Climate Change.
  2. Europe. Friends, show our kids Switzerland (honeymoon!), take a train, eat cheese and chocolate (make cheese and chocolate?). Learn western civ.
  3. Morocco. Start exploring more different cultures
  4. Israel, Jordan, Egypt. See friends, explore ancient and modern civilizations. Mid east politics past and present.
  5. South Africa for xmas. Colonialism, apartheid.
  6. India. Get out of our comfort zone, see a really different lifestyle
  7. Nepal, Bhutan. Mountains, landscapes, hiking, buddhism. Chinese culture, Mongolian history, geology.
  8. Australia. Friends.
  9. New Zealand. Hike, tour. Take a break.
  10. Tahiti. Surfing!
  11. Argentina, Guatemala, Mexico. Learn Spanish and learn about latin cultures before coming home.

 

A new plan: head West

This plan doesn’t really make much sense yet. Will we burn out before xmas? Will we be sad that we never learned Spanish in S/Central America? Here’s where it’s at:

  1. Australia. Soft start for the kids: English speaking, swimming, see friends.
  2. Mongolia. See the golden eagle festival. Indigenous culture, really different. Cold, barren landscapes.
  3. India. More different cultures
  4. Nepal. Visit Sophie. Mountains.
  5. Bhutan. Mountains, landscapes, buddhism
  6. More of E. Asia: Vietnam, Cambodia
  7. Sri Lanka. Slow down on some islands. Still cultural
  8. Maldives. beach vacation.
  9. UAE: modern mid east, oil & economics
  10. S Africa: xmas. apartheid, beach, safari
  11. Egypt, Jordan: ancient civ + modern ones
  12. Israel: take a break with friends. Zionism. Jewish history.
  13. Morocco: food, mixing of cultures
  14. Spain: into W. Europe
  15. Turkey
  16. W Europe and Iceland
  17. Vacation in Greece with Friends
  18. Home

Inline image 1

Plan #2 covers all the continents:

  1. Head S towards central America.
  2. Mexico, Guatemala. Learn Spanish
  3. Colombia, Chile, Brazil, Argentina: explore S America
  4. Antarctica: 2 weeks on a research vessel to learn about the wildlife and climate change
  5. S Africa for xmas. colonialism, apartheid, safari, surfing.
  6. Mid East: Egypt, Jordan, Israel. Cultures, past and present. Zionism.
  7. Morocco: mixing of cultures
  8. W Europe: Spain, France, Netherlands
  9. Iceland in the late winter. Waterfalls and northern lights.
  10. Turkey
  11. India
  12. Nepal, Bhutan
  13. Mongolia
  14. New Zealand: take a break, do some outdoors & hiking
  15. Indonesia & Papau New Guinea. See some very different cultures.
  16. Australia: take another break, hang out with friends
  17. Tahiti: vacation
  18. Home!

Inline image 2

from…the living room

all the ladies are out of town. Just me and Norah Jones here in the living room, trying to manage a whole lot of to-do’s and to-figure-outs. I put about 200 pictures on the walls so I can start thinking more visually about all the places we might go… it helps, sort of.

I noticed this weird thing where travel pictures don’t have people in them. Weird! It seems to me that the people are the major attraction. Sure, hiking, and surfing, and cycling, and waterfalls are all AMAZING, but…. So are the people. So I found pictures of people and food, but it wasn’t easy.

Maybe by tomorrow I’ll figure out the top two questions:
  • where to go for the xmas holiday, since Ella’s family will join us?
  • should we travel east or west?
I’ll keep you posted.
+hayes

Sam I am

We picked a travel agent yesterday. I guess sometimes DIY is not the best plan. I guess the truth is that Rachel and I love to go on trips, but our favorite ones were planned by friends. We just don’t love planning them. So we found Sam. She’s done this before. A few times. Different every time. And people liked her. Hopefully, we will too. 

We still have to decide whether to travel east or west. Rachel leans towards a soft start in Australia. I’ve got to say, that sounds pleasant and easy. There’s something to that. So maybe that’s our new plan.

So many decisions to make. I spent days planning Iceland, and it seems we may just cancel it all. Sigh. I have “Northwest vacation” on my calendar dar every day now but I’m here at home thinking of the future. The death ride is in 6 days and I have not ridden in 5. I have to get off my bum and get in shape! At least I dressed for it. Just gotta get out of here and do some riding now. 

At least last night was fun. Impromptu trip to see a soccer game. Galaxy played the earthquakes at the Stanford stadium and quakes won it in the 94th minute, which was amazing. Tess and Tricia came to sit with us for a while. We went with Mark and Sonia and kids. They sat near us, not too close. But close enough to all feel a part of the crazy cheering fan section next to us that never stopped hooting and dancing for the entire game. 

A nice cherry on top was the never ending fireworks show after the game. It even topped the halftime show, which was pretty cool. A couple pictures to jog the memory…

busy thursday

I didn’t go on the bike ride. I guess I was a bit hung over and woke up late. And I was afraid of the heat. Lame excuses though – I needed the long ride. No long rides yet this year, and the death ride is in less than a month. Sigh. And I’m a bit – how do I say – not at my race weight.

But I think the real excuse was the 8:30 am call to Karine. Wow, we have not talked in a long time! It was nice to reconnect with her. Such a familiar face, from soooo long ago. I’m looking forward to seeing her in southern France. We won’t stay with her, but perhaps will stay nearby. She was excited to have my Mom visiting us there at the same time. She loves my mom.

We were a bit rushed after 45 minutes on skype. We did do morning math again. 2 for 2, but it was less fun today. I have to make them more fun, or we’re not going to want to do them for very long. That’s my job. Fun dad.

Anyhow, I got a lot done today, at least. Long to do list. Crossed off a few of the smaller simpler things that have to be done in advance. Ordered a new passport, so I don’t run out of pages. Called the VW dealerships in WA and CA to see about returning the car. And then filled out more of their paperwork to advance the return process. Made a doctor’s appointment. Made a dentist appointment. Did a writing assignment left over from earlier this week.

Anika tried to get ebooks of the Fred books. Stan said no, in the most polite way imaginable. So…we made our own. YOU CAN’T STOP US, STAN! Rigged up the camera and flash on the tripod, set up a jig, and started flipping pages. 2 hours later we had all the books beautifully scanned, cropped, compressed and bound into nice ebooks. So that’s a good 15 lbs we won’t be schlepping around the world. Thank god.

Hello world!

Looking forward to getting to know you a bit better, big wide world out there.

A few people asked me why we’re going on this trip. Well, here are my main goals:

  1. Be with my family, and get to know them better
  2. Slower and deeper lifestyle. bonding. learning
  3. Visit friends
  4. get our of our bubble. get some context of our place in the world
  5. stay health and safe