Some ways people use (and don’t use) technology around the world

So far we’ve been in the United States, New Zealand, Mongolia, India, Bhutan, two islands of Indonesia (Bali and Flores), four regions of Australia, and countless airports. We have seen different people using technology and have spoken to that least one person in depth about it in each country. And you can learn something by looking at people. Let me tell you some of the things I’ve noticed.

First of all “first world” seems to apply to Internet as much as anything. I had sort of gotten used to the idea that people are glued to their phones all the time whether it is to socialize, to learn, to optimize their travel schedule, or to be entertained. Not so outside of the US, it seems.

Namaste.
An Indian builder greets us with his phone conveniently tucked between his palms, a sight I saw often seen in India where people hold their phones ready-at-hand.

Internet service does not exist everywhere, and it does not always work. And connectivity alone does not make a country internet-native. As the Kiwis say, they live 20 years in the past. So even though Google Maps works flawlessly, not that many people depend on the internet the way we do at home. In the other places I’ve been, the internet does not always work, or even exist in the same form as we have at home, because unreliable or horribly slow connections really change what you can use the internet for, and how you will end up using it.  

Some challenges

  1. The internet doesn’t work very well most places. Many of our web services don’t work when this is the case (e.g. many Google services like Photos and Hangouts). Personally, I have had to migrate to WhatsApp, SMS, and Instagram just to have tools that work reliably.
  2. The only place that people seem to have their eyes glued to their phones is the airport. Maybe this is because people have more time or more money or come from bigger cities, or perhaps they are bored or lonely being away from home (or all of the above).
  3. Phones started out as communication devices and seem to still be that for most people in most places. There are some additional utilities, such as in Mongolia where they rely on cell phones for weather forecast which are quite helpful to the farmers. But mostly they are about being connected to people.
  4. When I have asked people what they use their phones for, internet services are often not mentioned. For example, a man in India told me lots of things which were mostly about using Facebook (although he never mentioned Facebook by name). He didn’t mention any Google services, which surprised me (as a former Googler). So I asked specifically about Google and Google Maps and things like that. The man I was speaking to said, “oh yeah of course – Uncle Google! That’s what we call it – uncle Google knows everything and yes we know Google Maps to and use that a lot.” This attitude was pretty typical: people focus on what they are for, not what the tools or networks are called, or who provides them.
  5. Most of the places we have been to are not iPhone-heavy cultures. Attitudes about iPhone range from not caring, to wanting an iPhone and not being able to afford it, to assuming that we own iPhones even though they have handled our phones directly to take our photographs. They seem to largely be status symbols at this stage, since people can’t tell the difference between a Pixel and an iPhone.My guide in Flores had two phones: a Nokia candy bar phone for calls and SMS, and a Samsung S5 for WhatsApp. He also uses the S5 for Google photos (whose client-server model is much too complicated for him to understand), and FB messenger (which brings home new business) and occasional demos of Google maps, when he wants to “take his uncle to Europe,” or see where a client lives. He has no real idea that Google makes Android, and he uses email and Facebook too. But it’s basically his WhatsApp phone, in his thoughts. What’s the most important thing to people? Other people.

People are interested in other people

The rest of the world seems to have stronger sense of community than we have at home, at least in the old-fashioned sense of community where community means that you live with other people and you talk to them all the time. Community means you get in each others’ business, in each others’ ways, and rely on each other deeply. This is true in New Zealand (which is a little bit more affectionate than England), and it was also true in India where people are almost literally living on top of each other everywhere you go. It was true in Bhutan, in Indonesia, and in Australia. Because of this, in some places like Flores, people spend little or no time maintaining relationships with people who are far away.

Tools like Facebook and Instagram take on a different role when they are used more for coordination of the next face to face encounter, rather than relationship maintenance (as we do in the US). In a culture where families live together and people require face-to-face communication to make important decisions, technology is a way to (at best) arrange your next encounter with someone important, or (at worst) to get in touch with people who have made the unfortunate choice to move too far away talk to be part of your face to face community. In short, it’s all about the people.

Leaving Bhutan

It was Rachel’s favorite country in Asia (so far).

It was my “Switzerland of Asia.” Mountainous, peaceful, with clean air and kind people, keeping separated from the hustle-and-bustle of the continent.
I remember…

  • Big mountains.
  • Beautiful buildings.
  • Kind people everywhere.
  • Clean air.
  • River rafting, and how Rachel had such a good time. And I thought she didn’t like boats!
  • Our very kind and very Buddhist guide Namgay, who had such a subtle way of telling us what to do.
  • A delicious home cooked meal at the farm house in Paro, and how our host made chile-cheese in front of us.
  • Red chiles drying on the roofs of steel-topped farm houses everywhere.

And…

Bhutan / Google Photos

Trekking for 4 days

Originally there were supposed to be 6 of us on this trip. Grandpa Tim and Misha had helped plan it, and they made it very active. In order to do less driving, and more sightseeing, we had signed up for a 4 day Himalayan trek from the capital city of Thimpu to the town of Paro. Tim and Misha had to cancel their trip because Tim crushed a disk in his back, and was in too much pain to travel. So the 4 of us headed up to the monastery for the first night of the trek.

When we were planning the trip, I did not understand why camping costs more than staying in town. When we got there, it all made sense. We were on the “luxury camping” program, which included our guide Namgay, a cook, 4 horse men, and 13 mules. Wow, what an entourage. They do tourism with a high level of support in Bhutan! Anyhow, we set out on our first day, with a 3 hour, 5 km hike up to a monastery. Why so slow, I wondered? Well, it was steep. And the altitude was high. We headed up to our camp site, at a modest 3,600 m altitude. That’s about 11,800 ft! And more than we were ready for. Rachel promptly got symptoms of altitude sickness – a splitting headache that would not go away. We decided to spend the night and see if it passed. Our guide took it very seriously, and went to consult with the head Abbott at the monastery next door. A half hour later, Namgay poked his head in our tent and asked if we would like to go to the monastery for some wheat porridge and to rest. Rachel said she had just gotten comfortable in bed, and we had already eaten. Namgay asked again two times – his form of “insisting” – and Rachel, who had noticed more quickly than I that this was his form of “we are going!,” agreed to head over.

New photo by Hayes Raffle / Google Photos

I joined her some time later. Apparently the Abbott wanted to host us in the monastery for the night. He felt Rachel would be safer if she did not get too cold, so he offered the guest house to us. I went over to check in on Rachel. She was huddled in the corner of a large wooden room with a bowl of porridge in front of her, and a few monks in red robes surrounding her, milling about. She spoke to an older monk, who spoke good English, the head abbot I would later learn. I spent some time with her, and Namgay insisted that we stay in the guest house, on the orders of the abbot. Rachel was too full or sick to eat the porridge, although she described it as “perfect.” I went down the hill to inspect the guest house, which was lovely, and quickly agreed it would be a better night’s rest than staying in sleeping bags in our tents. I went to fetch the children.

It’s hard to overstate the relative comfort of a flat bed on a flat wooden floor, and a shelter that does not go “whoop” in the wind. Rachel woke at 3 am when the Tylenol wore off, but agreed to wait till morning to head down the mountain. At sunrise, my over tired girls headed around the corner one by one to the attached outhouse for the morning business and oohed and aahed at the sunrise, lighting the valley fog like a billowing blanket of white sheltering the land below us. We admired the golden hour as it lit up the monastery on the hill above us, and waited for the mountain to warm up.
Rachel headed down with Bahrain (“brain”) as soon as everyone was awake. Paloma considered going with her, but decided to trek on with us. Mistake. After 2 hours of painfully slow ascent toward our pass at 4,200 m, her headache was also splitting. On Namgay’s good advice, she headed down too, to meet her Mom in town and recover. Anika and I continued with Namgay, trusting Paloma in Bahrain’s capable care (he had already run down and up the hill to meet us again, having delivered Rachel to our driver Dashi…what an athlete!).

New photo by Hayes Raffle / Google Photos
New photo by Hayes Raffle / Google Photos

Anika and I continued up to the pass, a bit more quickly now that our suffering companion was heading the other direction. Anika had a burst of steam and we pushed up to the top in under an hour, and enjoyed the awesome view over the valley. There was no going back once we descended the back side, a succession of rolling hills that approached our second camp site next to a small lake. Five hours of hiking lay ahead of us, and we happily bounced towards our camp, Anika so happy to have her Daddy with her.
We learned a couple things our first night: get your warm clothes on right away when you arrive. Your body heat leaves quickly up at altitude, as Anika curiously noticed when she told me “I don’t know if I’m warm or if I’m cold.” We warmed her up eventually, parking her next to the barely-working gas heater in the dining tent (did I mention we were on the luxury program?). We also learned that our tent was not built for wind. That night the winds picked up strongly, billowing up to about 30 kts at times. I staked our tent down differently to try to prevent the fly from flapping against the tent all night – I could barely sleep – and somehow it made it through the night. In the early morning, when Anika went to the toilet tent, she learned what it means to “turn the fan up to 11” as the whole tent blew off of her, showing her 11 year old bum to… the horses and sleeping dog. Our dining tent blew open a few times too, its walls giving way to the Himalayan storm.

New photo by Hayes Raffle / Google Photos

Fortunately it was a dry storm. We saw only a few flakes of snow and pieces of hail. Everyone survived the second night, and after a hearty breakfast we headed on for another 20 km day.

Anika was more tired the second day. We meandered up and down some hills, and over a second pass where we could view the high mountains of Bhutan in the distance. The trail dog who found us after our first night joined us again, and we found yaks and other wildlife as we trekked. I got a bit worried about the time. While Ani was in great spirits, I heard many warnings from Namgay that we were behind schedule. I didn’t want to hike in the dark, so I started pushing her uphill at times to help her move along. “Silicon Valley parents are known for pushing their kids,” we joked. But it helped. After countless rhododendron forests, 10 km on a high ridge trail, and several river crossings, we got to camp just after sunset. We made it through our second and hardest day.

I wasn’t quite sure why our tent was pitched on a hill. Sleeping on a slope is one of my least favorite things, and when I realized that our dining tent was on a flat spot, I inquired. The crew thought we’d want to be farther from the kitchen / sleeping tent where it was noisy, and away from any smells that might be near the dining tent, as a previous group had left some kitchen trash on the ground. We tried propping up our cots with rocks to make them level. And we tried again. And we tried a third time. It didn’t really work. They were still sloped quite a lot, and I didn’t look forward to sliding out of bed that night – I wanted us to get a good night’s sleep. After some deliberation, Namgay offered to move the tent. We looked for a new spot but could not find one. Finally we agreed to move it to where the dining tent was pitched.

Thank goodness we did. Anika and I got to sleep late for some reason. Maybe the yak meat we ate for dinner? I don’t know, but I got to practice some ukulele songs, she got to read a book. But finally we slept. Very well. Like those rocks – we didn’t really move. Ahhh, sleep.

Our last morning was mostly downhill, and only about 10 km. At lower altitude the forest turned coniferous with silver firs blanketed by thick green moss. I got a bit tired of seeing trash on the trail, so I started picking up any piece I saw. There wasn’t much at first, but as we got closer to town the density increased. Anika and Namgay got in the spirit and started picking it up too. By the time we got near the bottom, we had about 3 bags full, including a shoe I found, many water bottles, and hundreds of shards of candy wrappers.

Let me just say that down hill is SO much easier than uphill, especially when you’re not really acclimated and every big step to climb is an effort. It wasn’t as easy as we expected, but we made it to a farm house at the bottom of the hill for lunch. We ate our usual fare: lots of rice, sauteed vegetables, some sort of meat, and plenty of sweet tea and water. They gave us these silly polyester scarves as trophies for finishing the hike, and we were pretty happy, and pretty proud of finishing it together. To show for it, Anika and I have lots of pictures of us jumping in the air, and holding hands, and being happy together.

Bhutan / Google Photos

Being in the rice fields of Punakha, and talking to a 17 year old woman who told me her story

She was drying her rice in a friend’s field because hers was on the hill side, and not as sunny – not as good for drying the rice – and she was the youngest of her siblings (were there 10 of them?). She was about 10 years younger than her older sister, whose children were playing with Anika and Paloma. She was in 11th grade, the only person in her town in upper grades, and she dreamed of being a media writer or journalist for the Dzong media channel (basically their public TV station). Her spoken English was excellent, and she said she read books any time she could find time, because the best writers read a lot. Her walk to school was long by our standards, 1 hour each way, probably over a mountain, but she said she was used to it, and it was no problem. I hope she gets into college. It’s gated by an entrance exam, and about 40% of applicants are admitted. If she doesn’t get in, she won’t get to become a professional, because her family can’t afford private college. She would end up a farmer like the rest of her family. I’m hoping for her. She seemed smart and focused and motivated, and I hope her dreams come true.

New photo by Hayes Raffle / Google Photos

Our amazing upgraded hotel room – double suites! – at the Zhiwaling hotel

This was perhaps the most ornate and beautiful hotel I can remember seeing, ever. The Bhutanese have a very simple and gorgeous architectural style, which is used just about everywhere, albeit at different levels of quality and detail. As hotel architecture goes, I like the style of the Post Ranch Inn more, but this place was gorgeous. Zhiwaling had amazing art and murals on the walls, beautiful carved and painted columns to support the building, and lovely details in the rooms, including ornamented ceilings above the tall windows that overlooked the clouded mountains. Also, somehow we got a free upgrade, and after many weeks (months?) of being almost on top of each other in hotel rooms, it was luxury to have 2 large bedrooms with a connecting living room. Oh, and before I forget – the internet actually worked! That was sure nice. Ten out of ten, would definitely stay again.

4 new photos by Hayes Raffle / Google Photos

The happily had, hard to handle, heartwarming, heavenly, halloween, holiday hike in the himalayas.

This week I trekked 52 km with my dad in the himalayas. We had a great time no backpack-backpacking, enjoying the views, and hanging out with our crazily cute and cool canine companions. We agreed it was super fun, and I would stretch to recommending it. However if you like to get dirty, have you whole body be sore, and take two showers when you get back, but still not smell quite right, then you may enjoy these four days like we did.

One thing that made this trek different from many others is that we did not have to carry our backpacks, or our tents, sleeping bags, or really anything we wanted to go on a horse. We had thirteen horses just to carry our stuff. The number of crew workers who were helping us was six, (including a boy who carried our lunch, snacks and tes and hiked with us.) We also had a number of yacks who were prepared to help us if it started snowing (which it didn’t.) I personally think that I would not have made it if I had to carry all of my stuff. Not having to carry our stuff was a big help to me.

The views were also spectacular. We got to see one of the tallest mountains in the world, and all of the ones surrounding it. In the four days the highest altitude we got to was 13845 feet. Where I live, we are 9 feet above sea level. Since we were so high, we saw amazing views. I saw the second highest peak in Bhutan. Actually, I just saw the bottom of it. The rest was covered in clouds. The sunsets in Bhutan where just as amazing as the mountains. They had mostly red, orange, and yellow in the morning, and those same colors, adding pink and purple in the evening. It was stunning, and on some mornings, I would wake up just to see it. With all of these amazing views, we had lots of places to take amazing, or what my mom calls it, (Instagram worthy) photos. I personally think that the sunset ones on the mountain where the prettiest. Also the ones we took using binoculars where “looking professional.” (For photos click here.) (Link) Overall, I thought that the views where one of the best things about Bhutan.

Another thing I loved about our trek was hanging out with our canine companions. For the first section of the hike, we had a doggy that was white and had black spot. This one we called the “the vaccinated one,” because he was vaccinated. That one brought us safely to our first destination. Then he ran back to his home. On the second hike, he stayed with us and a black and brown one joined us. We called that one the extra friendly doggy, because he was very friendly and loved to play. On the next hike, the white doggy left us but the second one stayed. At the next place we added the name “the polite one” to the black and white one because it would wait patiently outside the tent when we were eating and sleeping, even if the flap was open. On the fourth and final hike, the black and brown doggy was with us, and a black dog joined us. We called him the other polite doggy, because he gave us lots of space. At the end, we had trouble saying goodbye to the dogs because they brought us so much joy.

With not having to carry our back packs, the views, and our doggy dudes accompanying us, we had such a fun time, and would definitely recommend it. This backpacking trip was like surfing on a wave of joy. You might have to do a bit of work to stay on track, but its all worth it in the end.