Favorites, Least Favorites, and Why (Ten Months in Review)

Favorite Country & why

Hayes New Zealand. Beautiful, friendly, educated, and relaxed. And everything works.
Rachel New Zealand because the air was clean, the people were sane, and the land is striking.
Anika I cannot name my favorite country, so many of them were so amazing, but here are my top 3.

1. New Zealand – The first place we went was New Zealand. It was amazing in so many ways. The air was clean, the people so nice, lots of animals, and I would most definitely recommend this to anyone and everyone who loves travel. This country was very easy to travel in for a family, and by yourself because it is western, but also because every place you can go there is amazing. You can’t do New Zealand wrong.

2. Spain – We stayed in Spain for 1 month. Most of the time was in Sevilla. I loved being able to walk everywhere I wanted to go, and get everything there. Part of why I loved Spain was the amazing houses we stayed in as well.

3. Kenya – The first day we were in Kenya we were in the city. This was the only time we were there. I love animals, and we went to a baby elephant orphanage, and a giraffe sanctuary, so this was very special to me. For the rest of the time, we were in the desert, on a safari, and I saw more animals there than I probably had in my whole life put together. I am not sure if I would recommend Kenya as a country altogether because I’ve seen so little of it, but it is still one of my favorites.

A few honorable mentions:

Israel – Isreal was smack in the middle of our year. This is my second favorite country for food, and also one of my favorites for the people, experiences, and the time I had there in general.

France – I have been here twice in my life, both times to Paris. This one is on the list because my friend Sierra joined me, and we had a stellar time.

Turkey – I was actually a little bit scared of going to Turkey. There are so many articles stating against Turkey, however, I was very pleasantly surprised. It had lovely weather, people, and the best ice cream ever! (Maras.)

India – I am actually not listing this one because it is my favorite country. I loved the experiences there, but it was a bit too crowded and quick for me. This one is for the food. My favorite cuisine is Indian, through and through, and I loved the food there.

Columbia – Christmas! This was one of the reasons I chose Cambodia. I did not love the country that much, but this holiday, along with the arrival of Ella, Matilda, and their parents is what made it onto the list.

Paloma My favorite countries have been:

New Zealand – It is beautiful with hills and kind people, and they speak english!

India – It is so different from anywhere I have ever been. People are malnourished, and unhealthy, but they still work and go to school as much as possible. The food is also amazing! It is colorful, and bustling, and I didn’t realize how much I enjoyed it until we left.

Israel – The people are so kind, and are always coming up with new inventions. The food is also amazing, and I love the falafels and hummus.

Kenya – We went on a safari and it was amazing! We saw so much wildlife, and I enjoyed driving around in the jeep seeing baby elephants and lions, and it was so vast so I could just enjoy the country without making small talk.

Spain – I loved the food, and the people don’t bother to speak English with you, or even try. They like their language and aren’t about to go out of their way to speak someone else’s language. Also, the AirBnB we stayed in the first two weeks felt very much like a home, and I got used to it. I also love the jamon iberico and the manchego cheese with membrillo.

Least Favorite Country & why

Hayes Mongolia. Amazing people, but it’s sort of a lost land without much there. I am quite glad we went to the Golden Eagle Festival, for no other reason than the photos are amazing. I also loved how connected people are with their land, horses and birds, and how trusting they were with complete strangers to share their animals, and even have us in their homes. It felt like a lost tradition of hospitality and trust.
Rachel Egypt because I never felt completely safe.
Anika Egypt – Not many of the countries this year were ones I didn’t love, however, Egypt did not fit this description. The people were nice, but the experience I had was not amazing. Since there is a war in one of the places we went, the government requires that when out, we had to have two bodyguards on us at all times. It is very uncomfortable to have people with a gun in their holster in your car, but also it was dry their, in the environment, and alot of what we did. I did really enjoy learning about the history and seeing the runes, however, so as this is my least favorite, I still loved it.
Paloma Mongolia – Although I know I will never visit Mongolia again, it was interesting to see the combination of russian and chinese. It was too smokey everywhere we went, and every warm room smelled like I was sticking my head in a bag of coal. The air pollution is terrible, and it is way too cold!

Egypt – It was boring. There were too many people guarding us at all times and it felt unsafe just because of that. The feeling in the back of my mind that part of the country was being bombed as I peacefully walked down the beach, many miles away was unnerving. It was interesting to see ancient Egypt, and I liked seeing the carvings, but it was too much of the same things, and I didn’t find any of it very interesting. I did enjoy seeing the pyramids, but just because I had been hearing of them since I was 5. I enjoyed seeing the 4,000 year old mummies in the Cairo museum.

Favorite Cooking Class & why

Hayes Vietnamese cooking on the rice paddies. Excellent food. Great teacher. Surprising to make the rice papers over the steaming pot ourselves, and I learned something about how to make bone broth soup (pho) by roasting the bones on the grill, and then rinsing them in boiling water before putting them in the stock pot.
Rachel Panna Tiger reserve because the food was delicious and the cooks were so mellow and interesting.
Anika My favorite cooking class was in Morocco. This was partly because our instructor was so kind and amazing at cooking, and also because the food was so good. The main reason why is because of the environment. We stayed at a towering castle of a house, her house, on the second floor. I shared a cozy little room with my sister, and we stayed there for three days, along with the woman who ran the cooking class and my parents. The kitchen was on the bottom floor, and that is where we cooked every day. Just a block away there was a market, and we got all of our yummy food there. Along with the homey environment, this amazing woman had a cat named Tiger. Tiger was the highlight of my time there. So this might not all be related to the cooking class, but those are the reasons why this was my favorite.
Paloma I enjoyed…

The cooking demonstration in Sarai at Toria, India, mostly because the food was so good!

The cooking class in Vietnam where we learned how to make rice noodles, a mixture of rice and water poured onto a cloth above a steamer, and then chopped.I also loved how they char the beef and vegetable before dunking them into boiling water for a few seconds to cleanse them.

The cooking class in Jordan where we made an amazing rice dish, delicious appetizers and some Jordanian drinks.

Morocco we stayed at a cooking school run by a british woman. We stayed in her home which I loved, and we shopped at the local market right outside of her house. We saw her favorite vendors and ate a goats head. (A little bit of hair in the meat!!) We learned how to make Moroccan dishes with the ingredient we had bought from the market. She taught us a little bit about Moroccan cuisine, but didn’t go on a rant about it. We also went to a goat farm where we played with baby goats and milked the goats. With the milk we made cheese which we combined with a Moroccan classic dish, a tagine. It was goat cheese and fresh herbs melted over the big fire.

Israel – We did a Druze cooking class in Israel and we made stuffed zucchini (yum!!!) and for dessert we had the best dessert of the year. It was fried outside kind of like bread, and on the inside there were two options: a goat cheese and honey filling or a nut and cinnamon filling and they were both AMAZING!

Colombia – We cooked with a michelin star chef who worked for Gordon Ramsey! We learned how to make a delicious fish soup and coconut rice, and we also got to make ceviche and learn how to break down a fish!

Least Favorite Cooking Class & why

Hayes Egyptian Nile cruise. Not a class at all. Just “watch us cook now.”
Rachel None were bad.
Anika In Egypt we went on a cruise for 5 days. It was a very large boat, and very comfortable accommodations.
Paloma Egypt – On the beach we had a very informal cooking class where we learned how to make pizza (which we already knew), french fries, and a delicious eggplant dish that was like a layered tomato lasagna.

Cape Town – We did a cooking class in a woman’s house which was fun, but it was mostly fried bread. We did go to the Persian spice store across the street which was awesome and I got powdered coconut milk.

None of the cooking classes we went to were ‘bad’ but these were not my favorite ones.

Favorite Food & why

Hayes Indian food is so delicious, and I enjoy veg food more now – and they are experts.
Rachel Californian because it is comfort food. 🙂 Also, I loved the purple potatoes of Hawaii, and all of the flavors of India and Israel.
Anika India! – Indian food had just the right amount of spicy and sweet and salty. All of the components are there, and fit into just the right places. India is also by far the best place to be a vegetarian. All of the food that has meat is amazing, but the vegetarian options blow your mind. I am not a vegetarian myself, but in order of trying not to get sick, we didn’t eat meat there. The Indian restaurants I have went to at home are also good, but if you want to get the real deal, you have to go to India.
Paloma Spain – I love the tapas! I love how there are legs of ham everywhere, and anywhere you go you can get some sliced off. I also love the combination of manchego and membrillo, a spanish favorite.

India – This may be my favorite cuisine of the year. I loved it because even if you got gas station food, it was still delicious. I love all of the spices and flavors. There is also no such thing as bad food. We had the airplane food and it was delicious!

Israel, Jordan, Egypt, Palestine – I love the Mediterranean cuisine, and how there is a perfect combination of fried falafels and fresh tomato and cucumber salad. I also love the fresh hummus and tahini, and how you can go to a market in Jerusalem and watch the tahini you buy be pressed from the sesame seed.

Least Favorite Food & why

Hayes Mongolian food – kinda heavy and boring. Egyptian desserts – waay too sweet
Rachel There is not much food that I don’t like.
Anika The worst food I have had this year is airplane food. From rotten strawberries to rock solid muffins, you can probably see why. There is usually at least one food that I like, and I usually eat most of it, even if it is bad.

A few honorable mentions:

There are two airlines that I remember that had good food. One of them was Spice Air, and another one Qantas. Neither of them were stellar, but they were good enough.

Paloma Mongolia! – Mongolian traditional foods are just fried bread, curdled cheese, salty milk, and rock hard cheese bricks. Every single traditional Mongolian food I tried was disgusting.

Favorite Activity & why

Hayes Oooh, tough one. I loved hiking in Bhutan with Anika…beautiful and good bonding time with her.
Rachel Safari in the Mara of Kenya and trekking on Maria Island in Tasmania.
Anika I cannot name one activity, but my favorites were in New Zealand. From rolling down the hill in a human sized, water filled hamster ball, to cuddling sheep, I loved everything we did there.
Paloma Cooking classes, seeing local village life, doing charity projects, playing with babies!!, and eating local food

Least Favorite Activity & why

Hayes Nile cruise. Boring, felt a bit captive. Guides were mediocre.
Rachel Visiting the Taj Mahal because the lines were long, the air was toxic, the temperature was squelching, and we had arrived late the night before only to wake very early for touring.
Anika I have a few in mind, but over all, my least favorites were the ones where we didn’t do anything. Watching tiles be made is cool, but when you are slowly being roasted in the sun, and don’t get to do anything, it is a little bit disappointing.
Paloma walking around cities.

Favorite Hotel & why

Hayes Zhiwaling in Bhutan. So beautiful and peaceful.
Rachel Boatshed in NZ and Zhiwa Ling in Bhutan.
Anika My favorites are:

New Zealand:

The Boat Shed on Waiheke Island. This accommodation was one of our firsts, and that may be part of why I loved it so much. But it was definitely also because of the nice beds, view, food, and very cute dog. It was so comfortable there, and I enjoyed it so much.

New Zealand over all had awesome accommodations. I loved pretty much every place we stayed. My 2nd and 3rd in NZ are the Fiordland Lodge, especially for their dog Mazy, and Eden House for the lovely chocolate and room, however those are not in my favorites over all.

Israel:

The Arthur hotel. The Staff were amazing, the rooms clean, the location of the hotel great, but in my opinion, the best thing about The Arthur Hotel is the food. From hummus to cinnamon challah, this breakfast makes you fall in love with Israeli food, and makes you want to stay there forever.

Paloma wildwood, nz – amazing cookies and super nice people, almost like grandparents

boatshed, nz – honeymoon place with amazing views

vietnam – one by the river with nice people and yummy breakfasts

israel – jerusalem had amazing breakfast and nice rooms

spain – my favorite of the trip. it felt like a home

peru – the nice one we stayed in with the tea tour and bear watching. the rooms were huge and nice. they had a private hot tub

Least Favorite Hotel & why

Hayes The airport hotel in Cairo was a low point. We were ready to unwind, but it was cramped and not so clean.
Rachel airport hotel of Delhi
Anika I cannot choose. None of the hotels were actually bad. I either loved the hotels, or I liked them.
Paloma the airport hotels everywhere – they are usually kind of dirty and not nice

Favorite Apartment & why

Hayes Probably the first AirBnB in Seville – so peaceful to be there and relax, and the place was big, beautiful, and had a well equipped kitchen. The apartment in Queenstown was great too.
Rachel Queenstown. Amazing view, ample space, large tv for watching Lord of the Rings, and great laundry machines.
Anika My favorite apartment we stayed in was in Seville, Spain. We were there for two weeks, and it was amazing. As well as being in a safe neighborhood, and able to come and go as I wanted, we got the whole building, with it’s 3 stories to ourselves. With 5 bedrooms, and and 4 bathrooms, my family got 2 extra bedrooms, and each got a bathroom to ourselves, a luxury we never have. It was in the perfect location, and I could walk to everything. It was a cozy home, and though big, did not overwhelm me. I loved this Airbnb.
Paloma seville, manly, cape town, because they had nice kitchens and they felt like real homes.

Least Favorite Apartment & why

Hayes That flea infested place in Sydney, for sure. Awful hosts, and we got so bitten up.
Rachel Manly. Bedbugs, fleas, broken heater, and a host who lacked integrity.
Anika My least favorite was a Airbnb we stayed at was in Manley. This had amazing rooms, a great kitchen, a backyard to make slime, a laundry machine, and comfy couches. The flaw in this magnificence were the bugs and the owner. There were bed bugs, fleas, and wow did they itch. by the time I left I had at least 100 bites. It wouldn’t have been quite as bad if when we told the owner, he didn’t deny it. As well as not owning up to the bugs, he claimed we broke his already broken stuff, and therefore, had to pay for the damage we did not make. Luckily, Airbnb was very empathetic and kind, and helped us with our problems.
Paloma israel tel aviv – location was nice and hotel was simple

barcelona – too big and it felt like unnecessary money, things were not in convenient places

Favorite Airport & why

Hayes Beijing airport had that nice water feature with seats to do work. Peaceful, quiet, beautiful.
Rachel Wellington in NZ. Spacious and clean.
Anika My favorite airport is most definitely Sydney, or SYD. Along with great food options, comfortable seating and nice staff, you have easy security, and stocked up stores. The gates are very easy to get to, and there is either a store, a coffee shop, or a smoothie bar outside each of them. All over the airport there are tables with high chairs that you can sit at, and charge . your device in the provided outlets. There is also WiFi that works, and you can access it anywhere in the airport. If you leave something in any place of the airport, or on a airplane, they are also people you can put your trust into. I left my computer on the airplane once, and it was 15 minutes before I realized my mistake. I went back to the gate, and it was waiting for me. They handled it very responsibly. They made me give them my user name and information before they gave it back to me, to prevent people from stealing it. My dad’s credit card allows us access to at least one lounge at every airport we go to, but at SYD, we thought that it was so nice in the main area, that we sat there instead.
Paloma geneva, all the airports with priority pass lounges

Least Favorite Airport & why

Hayes Not sure. Cairo was a blur, maybe not so great.
Rachel Ulgii, Mongolia. No working toilet.
Anika This is not my least favorite airport, but the place I had my worst experience. Here I was only with my mom, and it was our trip to London right before we left CA. We got into the airport, and everything was going smooth. When we got out, we had a taxi take us to a very nice hotel, and we had a awesome week. We were heading home on a Sunday, and it was a normal transition for the first part. The problem were the staff. Most of them were polite and kind as usual, but when we got to the baggage scanners, it sort of went downhill from there. We were only allowed to put one thing in each bin, and that was a little confusing for us. The problem was, the lady behind the counter was mean. She kept on yelling at us, and then when we still couldn’t get it, she marched up to us and did it for us. The bags went through, and we were relieved to get away. Then we got stopped. At the end of the line, a new lady (thank god) told my mom to open her bag. She opened it and did as the woman told. London is a fashion city. My mom bought a lot of new makeup and creams there, to bring back home. She took out all of her liquids, and laid them down. There aren’t the same rules as other airports. In this one, instead of not being able to have bottles over 3 ounces, but here, you just had to be able to fit everything inside of one small bag per person. My mom tried, but could only fit about half of her stuff. This woman was only doing her job, I knew that, but she was also being kind of mean about it. In the end, my mom had to throw away half her makeup. Our flight was leaving in 30 minutes, and already boarding, so we ran. To get to our terminal, we had to take the train. We arrived just as one was leaving. We got on the next one 6 minutes later, and took a 5 minute ride. When we got to the other side, we sprinted to the gate, which was pretty far away. We had given ourselves 3 hours of time. You are only supposed to come 2 hours in advance for a international, and usually have extra time still. We were the last people to board the plane, and it took off 3 minutes after we boarded. Nothing completely catastrophic happened, but it was a close call.
Paloma the one in indonesia because we had to stay outside in the heat for two hours

Favorite Airline & why

Hayes Spice Air, on account of the surprisingly delicious veg Indian food that emerged from the tin-foil covered tinfoil tray. “Veg or non-veg?” they asked. Haha. Love it!
Rachel All of them for getting me home safely
Anika My favorite airline is Virgin Air, and their mixes. As well as great entertainment, their seating is comfortable, staff kind, and their first class is actually better than economy.
Paloma bhutan air because we got emergency aisle with lots of legroom, qantas air because there was lots of space and pretty good food, and spicejet because the food was actually good!

Least Favorite Airline & why

Hayes American is probably the worst, with old planes, no entertainment centers (even though I don’t use them anyway) and occasionally grough staff.
Rachel Iberia nickels and dimes the customers. I wIsh the tickets had just cost more upfront.
Anika There was this one budget airline in Asia, and I can’t remember what it was called, but I remember that the seating Was so small, you could barely fit your luggage through the aisle, and they were trying to fit as many people on the plane as possible.
Paloma egyptair, iberia air, they were dirty with tiny seats

Favorite Drink & why

Hayes Fresh coconut water anywhere in SE Asia. Also, that choco-avocado smoothie at the roadside restaurant in Flores, Indonesia was amaaaaaazing.
Rachel Clean, spring fresh water from New Zealand.
Anika Water. I have drunk at least 1000 bottles of water with the help of my family this year, if not more. The bottled water is great, but my favorite was when we were in Switzerland. The tap water there came straight from the Swiss Alps, the same place Evian comes from. It was clean, germ free, and tasted amazing.
Paloma The icy lemonade in colombia because it was soo hot and the ice cold colombian drink with some special red fruit and honey.

Least Favorite Drink & why

Hayes That milk tea in Mongolia was not sooo bad – especially when paired with the equally bizarre cheese curds – but I don’t want to drink it again. At least I can now say I’ve had horse milk, camel milk, and yak milk.
Rachel Camel milk. It’s probably an acquired taste.
Anika Camel Milk. It wasn’t disgusting, but it needs a acquired taste.
Paloma mongolian tea! It’s disgustingly salty

Favorite Person we met & why

Hayes So nice to see Charlie and Gil, who made Rachel smile so much. I also have great memories of our guides in S. Africa and Zimbabwe, and especially liked Thabo in Johannesburg.
Rachel Margaret in NZ was so generous and welcoming.
Anika I loved everyone. One person I had in mind was A Muilder, just because she seemed so happy and content, and was my little 5 year old birthday treat.
Paloma dick from mongolia, sofia from new zealand, hannah from australia, the other guy from mongolia whose name i can’t remember.

Least Favorite Person we met & why

Hayes Probably the airbnb hosts in Seattle and Sydney who lied to us.
Rachel
Anika Grumpy Paloma. She is mean, does stuff to tick me off, and tries to as well.
Paloma

Favorite Guide & why

Hayes Thabo (Johannesburg) was so honest, forthcoming, and engaging – especially with the kids. Ahmed (Jordan) was a warm and open guy who grew on me as the week progressed.
Rachel We had many, many extraordinary guides. I can’t think of a favorite.
Anika I cannot choose, so many were amazing.
Paloma Australia brothers in tasmania because they did enough work with still letting us cook. peru guide, cambodia guide, mongolia guide, shlomi in israel, jordanian guide, south africa guide,

Least Favorite Guide & why

Hayes The A+K guides in Egypt were not good. Especially the guy on the boat. The others meant well, but the dictatorial government and constant security patrol made it so they did not speak openly to us, so I felt we were too protected from reality there.
Rachel Nile guide in Egypt. He seemed inauthentic, but to his credit, he tried hard and was always smiling.
Anika This guide was very nice, knew a lot about the the history of Turkey, and I liked him, I did. The only thing was that he was so close minded. He was religious, and that was okay, but he thought everything was connected to god. It may not have helped that my family is so stubborn, but it was annoying and embarrassing to have a god/no god conversation.
Paloma all of the guides in india treated us like we were a higher class and i don’t like that.

Favorite Driver & why

Hayes Our quiet but helpful Indian driver was awesome. I like that he was Sikh and glowed at our appreciation of his religion’s approach to public service to the needy.
Rachel Jordan. He was a complete neat freak. Cambodia. Probably because we were with the Haney-Foulds family it seemed like car time was always a party,
Anika My dad. So many reasons why.
Paloma our driver in peru, i can’t really remember the rest

Least Favorite Driver & why

Hayes None of them was truly awful, but I did get carsick a lot this year.
Rachel na
Anika A few years ago we went to Europe for a month during the summer, and we had just gotten out of the airport, and got into a taxi. There were four seats for us, but only three of them had seat belts. My sister got the seat that didn’t. I assume our driver was drunk. He could have and something else, but he drove like a mad man. It was horrible.
Paloma na

Favorite Community Service (school, service project) & Why

Hayes Although we didn’t do much, I enjoyed visiting the Juanfe Foundation (Colombia) who helped teen mothers. And I enjoyed visiting project Soar (Morocco) who helps teens stay in school and be feminists.
Rachel Biodigester in Zimbabwe. Actually, I have a long list here. We were very lucky to connect with SO many amazing people and organizations doing great work in their communities. There are a lot of inspirational people around the world.
Anika When we got to build a bathroom wall for a school in India with me to we. We had gloves and basically just slapped on wet cement and rocks. It was really fun, and it made my day to know I was helping the community and also having fun.
Paloma Me to We building a foundation, Bio-Digester in Zimbabwe, Seeing babies at the JuanFe foundation in Colombia

Least Favorite Community Service (school, service project) & Why

Hayes Biogas was fun to do, but I felt not a good value in terms of social impact / $ spent. That tech is just too expensive, so I felt the impact / cost was too low.
Rachel Kumbhalgarh, India broke my heart but the Me to We program is actually quite impressive.
Anika
Paloma na

Favorite Type of Activity

Hayes Cooking Classes, Learning from Locals, Hiking
Rachel Walking Tours, Learning from Locals, Hiking, Visiting Schools, Service Projects, Chillaxing (day at leisure)
Anika Chillaxing (day at leisure)
Paloma Cooking Classes, Learning from Locals, Fishing, Hiking, Visiting Schools, Service Projects, Chillaxing (day at leisure)

Least Favorite Type of Activity

Hayes Chillaxing (day at leisure)
Rachel
Anika Walking Tours
Paloma

Is There Anything Else?

Hayes That’s it!
Rachel Our ten months of traveling around the world was the most intense experience of my life. 8 am to 8pm of non-stop learning, exploring, traveling, helping, doing, and connecting. I learned that Paloma is the most positive person I have ever known, Hayes has more energy and drive than I knew plus he is an extraordinary father, and Anika has a deep love for animals and an amazing ability to lose herself in books. I missed routines and my pillow desperately and am so, so grateful we returned alive. The year felt a little like giving birth or taking a class that was way above my skill level. I am fundamentally changed and somewhat traumatized by the experience but also richer. Meeting people around the world was a humbling experience for me. I think it will take me a while to fully digest and process our experiences.
Anika These are answers of what I can remember, or what is most true. Not everything is on here that is in my mind, so I am sorry that you do not have the complete version.
Paloma Nope.

The Challenges of Getting to Oneonta Falls

#1 Climbing down the tiny, thin steps.

Climbing down the thin, mossy steps wasn’t scary, just difficult. Almost slipping every other step, it didn’t take us the amount of time it usually does to climb stairs. It took a lot longer.

#2 Climbing over the slippery, high, uneven rocks and logs.

I cling on to anything I can. Then at a pace that was slow, but still faster than most people, I crawled over. I did this about five or six times.

#3 Trying to stay on the log in the middle of the lake as to not get wet.

“Come on. Just jump in,” Paloma exclaimes.

“It only goes up to your knees, and it’s below freezing.”

But I stick to balancing on the log any way. I quicken up my pace, as to keep up with Paloma’s swim-walk. After a few minutes, I give up.

“Okay, you win,” I say to Paloma. And I jump in.

#4 Not succeeding and going knee deep in freezing cold water.

“What do you mean this is below freezing,” I finally say a my senses return to me.

“You’ll get used to it.” Paloma answers. Then she runs ahead. And I run after her.

#5 Going even deeper into the waterfall.

Finally my Dad, my Dad’s friend and one of his kids, Paloma and I get to what we are here for. The waterfall.

It was beautiful. Water rushing from the top and bouncing when it hit the water really reminded me how amazing nature can be.

Then I came to reality and jumped. The water was freezing and I was belly button deep in it. So was Paloma. We tried to smile for a couple of pictures, but they didn’t turn out too well. And then Paloma jumped in.

Making really funny faces from the cold water

I couldn’t say any thing. It was too cold. I didn’t have to. My face told it all.

Overall it was cold, but great. I had so much fun and strongly recommend it to anyone who happens to be in Oregon.

Our last stops in the US

Before we departed the US, we made three stops up the west coast and then one in Honolulu for a layover.

Stop 1: Turner, Oregon, 2017 Eclipse, Zone of Totality

In Turner, Oregon, we experienced our first solar eclipse in the zone of totality. We had read Every Soul a Star by Wendy Mass (a great middle school read) years earlier which sparked our interest in eclipses. This seemed like a perfect start to our year of exploration. We were lucky that friends from Palo Alto, Rafferty and Kristin, and Portland, Josh, Allison, Phineas, and Moses, were able to meet us to share the experience.

A rural science teacher rented us her sweet, simple home with a horse and chickens and enough land for Kristin and Rafferty to put up a tent. In the morning, we woke excited with our eclipse glasses at the ready.  As the moon passed before the sun, the enthusiasm swelled until totality when the sky went dark, the air chilled, the rooster cock-a-doodle-dooed, Phineas cried, and the kids and adults jumped up and down in awe. The moon looked like a bright white ball in the sky with swirling rays surrounding it. Totality felt like birth: no matter how much science explains the experiences, both feel otherworldly and magical.

Stop 2: Portland, Oregon

We had the great fortune to stay with friends whose home was an oasis in Portland. Hayes met Josh in graduate school at MIT. Hayes had lots of crazy ideas and limited skills in engineering and computer science. Josh, who Hayes describes as one of the smartest and most talented people he has ever met, was a joyful and easy-going guy who shared his time and skills with Hayes enthusiastically and generously. Now he is a dad with a thoughtful and devoted wife and two delicious sons.

I love staying with other people because I love observing the habits and rituals of different families. I like to reflect on what habits I might be able to incorporate into my own family routines. What struck me about the Liftons is their integrity. They are thoughtful about their values, and they live accordingly. This is exemplified through their language with their children, their shopping and eating habits, and their choice of how they spend their time.

Stop 3: Seattle, Washington (Swedish Ballard ER)

Our stop in Seattle included a life defining experience. Again, we stayed with fabulous friends who we had first met at MIT. James and Stephanie are creative and generous with two fabulous kids, one of whom was a NICU premie and is now just 4 months old. Similarly, I observe the calm, respectful and thoughtful way that they interacted as a family. Our visit brought a little more excitement into their home than they had anticipated.

The first morning we arrived, I ended up with a concussion in the ER. I had been heading downstairs to the guest room after my morning cup of coffee and as I took my first step, I slipped on the metal strip that separated the kitchen floor from the stairwell. I fell down the stairs and landed on my head and right forearm. I got up and walked back to the kitchen table. I felt dizzy so put my head down on my forearm on the table and then blacked out. Hayes and our friends report that I fell off the chair and hit my head (again) very hard on the wall. I then started seizuring. I woke up to the EMT feeling like I had been dreaming. I felt very light headed and nauseous. The EMT tried to put a head neck around me but I kept ripping it off. They also persisted in taking my blood pressure which was dangerously low. I couldn’t open my eyes or stop vomiting, but fortunately, my mind was clear and I repeated to Hayes a few times to call Meera to get the kids as they were taking me away on a stretcher. The girls had been downstairs so they missed the fall and seizure. They came upstairs as I was being carried away on a stretcher, but they said they weren’t too worried because I sounded like myself. You can imagine how incredibly grateful I felt that Stephanie and James and Meera were there for my girls so that their memory of the day is predominately about the fun they had in Seattle. I was ill with my eyes closed for the entire ride to the ER. It was one of the gnarlier feelings in my life.

Fortunately, the care at Swedish Ballard Emergency Room could not have been better. The nurses, staff, doctors, and radiologist were all warm, competent and effective. The nurse quickly hooked me up to an IV where I consumed a bag and half of liquids (note to self: stay hydrated when traveling), anti nausea medicine and mild pain medicine. I was shivering loudly so Hayes wrapped me up like a mummy in their decadently warm flannel sheets. The doctor thoroughly examined me and a CT scan showed that my brain had not been damaged. Within three hours, I transformed from feeling like I might die to feeling tired but otherwise fully functional. I slept for three straight days, napped for a few more and then within a week only had yellow bruises on my forearm and cheek and a few lumps on my head to remind me of the not so fabulous incident in Seattle.

The positives of the experience include: 1) I have more gratitude for Hayes who was wholly and completely focused on communicating with the doctors and making sure that I felt comfortable through the entire hospital stay; 2) I feel lucky to have friends like Meera and her family, who on a moment’s notice whisked my children away and showed them a fabulous day so that mostly what they remember of what could have been a traumatic day is hanging from large climbing structures in downtown Seattle, a yummy meal, and fun times at her house; 3) I had not really been a big fan of throwing up our life and galavanting into the sunset, but having felt close to death or disability, I better relate to Hayes’ intense desire to connect as a family.

 

Stop 4: Honolulu, Hawaii

Our last visits to Hawaii have been to Kauai where my dad and his wife live. Kauai is lush and feels wholly different form the mainland. The vegetation, beaches, and tropical weather dominate. Honolulu, in contrast, felt like the Stanford mall on steroids. The first day, I spent in bed at the tail end of my concussion recovery. I was surprised when I finally made it out to discover that Waikiki is manicured and commercial.

One morning, my dad took us to Pearl Harbor and gave us an overview of World War 2. My dad is a quiet and reserved man so it was a treat to hear him clearly and vividly describe the events that led up to World War 2 and the ways that his parents and their generation had been affected by the war.

Next stop: New Zealand!

Nest Stop: Seattle Space Needle

8:53 AM: You are standing in a short line to get to the elevator. On your way, you pass many large poster boards with information about the space needle. Do you stop and read it? Nope! People are starting to cut you! You get to the front of the line. There is a nice lady taking the tickets. Your dad says he has online tickets and the woman taking the tickets says her boss doesn’t trust her with that level of responsibility. Your dad laughs. You move on to take a photo of you photoshopped in front of the space needle.

9:00 AM: You are going up an elevator with clear windows and you can see the whole beautiful city of Seattle. A tour guide is talking as you go up the elevator. He is explaining something, but you are not listening because you are too busy staring out the window at the mountains.

9:01 AM: You are suddenly jolted back to reality with a loud brrrrr, thump. You are on the top of the space needle. You immediately smell kettle corn and you automatically walk over to it. You scan the choices, ask your Dad, and before he even answers, you turn away. You know the answer. No.

9:03: You walk outside to the 360° balcony and you are greeted with a pleasant view of Seattle. You begin to trap the image in your head but before you can even finish taking your mental photo, you see your sister whip out her camera and shove it in your face. You decide to follow your sister’s wishes and take a few shots. Just as you are heading out, you quickly turn around and take your mental snapshot.

9:30: After a while on the balcony, you decide you want to go check out the spinning restaurant one floor down. This time you decide to go down the stairs. You count the stairs as you go down. 46 stairs. You are already at the restaurant. As you step into the restaurant, you realize something. It’s closed! Then you spot someone setting up tables. He tells you that they are closed but will be open in 3 minutes. You turn around and see about five more people who have wandered into the restaurant looking for reservations. Then you hear the person says that there are reservations only. You decide you didn’t hear that and go check out the spinning outside rim of the restaurant. You stand on it and you slowly but surely move around the outside rim of the room. You see the beautiful view out the window again and just as you suck in another view your dad calls out to you that it is time to go.

9:45: You take a ride down the clear elevator yet again and are greeted with the Space Needle gift shop. Your dad says you can have 2 minutes and 30 seconds later he tells you it’s time to go.

Stop 1: Pip’s Donuts

You crunch into the sweet, crispy exterior of the delicate dough. You are suddenly greeted with the soft, bready interior, as well as the crunchy, sweet and salty top. This gives you an urge to take another bite. As you take your second bite, you start to taste the flavors more intensely until you know exactly what the flavors are. But wait! Is it what you were thinking? You have to take another bite to confirm. And another. And just one more. Yep. It is the sweet, comforting, maple flavor combined into the salty bacon, balancing out the sweetness of the maple syrup on the donut — all captured in that 1’’ x 1’’ piece of fried sweet bread. The sweet maple bacon donut madness from Pip’s donuts in Portland Oregon is enough to make you turn around in your car, drive back, and grab a few more.


Pearl Harbor. Thanks, Tim.

I hadn’t really realized what a good historian Tim is. I asked Misha if we should have him be our guide in Pearl Harbor, or do a tour. Laughing, she said, “Well, he already corrected one of the facts on the summary of the tour, so I think maybe we should just listen to him.” We took a taxi across town and he lined us up in front of some sign with pictures on it. He started to tell us about Japan and the US, and the Pacific. And it was HOT! After a couple minutes we moved to the shade – and I’m glad we did, because we were there, talking, for an hour!

So let’s see how much I learned. I’m going to try to recap what I gathered from our history lesson…. Tim explained Japan had a modern army, had learned from the French, Germans and Prussians how to do modern warfare – and were systematically taking over the APAC region. Manchuria, China, and on and on. Their Samurai warrior class demonstrated Japan had a deep history of warfare and knew how to fight.

The Japanese had allied with the Nazis, and when the Nazis conquered the French, Germany put their own governments into French Indochina. Japan had wanted those territories for a long time, and after Germany took away France’s authority in those areas, Japan thought it was a good time to go try to take control of French Indochina, and expand their empire further into the South Pacific. The US, who had been supplying a lot of oil to Japan, didn’t like the idea of Japan getting so large in the Pacific area. So, the US government stopped selling oil to Japan in order to slow the expansion of the Japanese empire. We also moved our Pacific fleet to Hawaii in preparation to defend our Pacific territories like the Philippines and Midway Island.

The Japanese had seen examples of successful surprise air raids to take out an opponent’s forces (can’t remember where), and adopted this idea for Pearl Harbor. They were afraid the US would not let them expand their empire, so the Japanese military planned a surprise attack on the naval forces in Pearl Harbor. They thought a weakened US military would give them a few years’ time to accomplish their goals. They also thought the US might get demoralized from the attacks and sign a treaty with Japan after being so badly wounded. Unfortunately for Japan, the opposite happened. The event formally launched the US into the war, and less than 4 years later, our country dropped two atom bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki. They suffered four hundred thousand casualties for the ~3,000 they inflicted on us. Woah. They surrendered the war because they feared the extinction of the Japanese race — their first surrender in the two thousand year history of their people.

I asked Tim why the US occupied the Pacific region in the first place. Why did the US care what Japan was up to in the first place? Why did the US government send all out troops out to Hawaii and threaten them? I noticed he didn’t really talk about it, and the movies at Pearl Harbor didn’t either. He mentioned it would not be discussed at the memorial because a critique of war would be too painful and too sensitive a topic to discuss; people could only bear to remember their lost ones. But he got into it a bit. Tim explained we were allied with the French and Great Britain, so the Nazis were the enemies of our friends. This made Japan our enemy by association. But larger issues of colonialism were also at play, and the US were colonialists too. The US controlled Midway Island, the Marshall Islands, Hawaii, the Philippines, etc. And the US didn’t like the idea of Japan being a colonial power there too. Tim explained there existed really deep seated racism against Asians in the US in those days (really still, but it’s not as strong today, especially where I have lived). He mentioned tariffs and other exclusionary practices specifically aimed at Asian nations and said he thought it stemmed from deep seated bigotry that was common among Americans. We didn’t like the idea of an Asian superpower. I guess maybe that notion has not changed entirely, despite over 75 years since the start of the war. Some progress, but probably not enough.

The girls were great listeners. After the lesson we headed in to the park and miraculously got walk-in tickets, despite it being after 11 am already. We spent some time looking at the USS Missouri and having a quick guided tour there before watching the memorial movie. The movie consistently put images to many of the things Tim had already taught us, and added a rather somber tone of loss to the experience, a reminder we were about to see a war memorial. Then we embarked on a short boat ride to the memorial, a hauntingly simple and tasteful hallway slumped over the USS Arizona which it commemorated. We spent our time there, considered the ship sunken beneath us, the names of the dead engraved on the wall, the throngs of tourists around us, and the gentle Hawaiian breeze that tempered the blistering heat. And then we ambled back to the boat, back to land, off of the naval base, and back to a hopefully peace-full world ahead of us.

The Locks and The Fish Ladder

Juniper was a great tour guide. Give a seven year old a job she can do, and she delivers! It took a bit of convincing to get her to go back to a place she had already been, but when she realized it meant another couple hours playing with Anika, she agreed. We grabbed a lyft to the gates of the park. “This way,” she told us, and walked us through the park towards the locks. 

Impeccable timing. We walked up to the locks just as the last small motor boat was loading in to the small lock, ready to head out to sea. After just a moment’s wait, we saw the back gates close. We ran to the front, ready to see the front gates open and let the boats free. It went down so fast! An elevator for boats, I didn’t realize how simple the locks actually are. I always wondered how they make the boats go up and down, but now that I’ve seen it, it’s so simple! They just let it drain slowly down to the lower water level, and down the boats go down like they are on a big floating elevator. The sea-side gates noisily opened up and let their caged passengers free. 

It took me a minute to figure out how they make the boats go back UP. They just let the lock fill from the higher river, that’s it! So simple. Paloma explained it to me – I think she’s a bit quicker than I am sometimes… 

“Where are the seals?” we asked. Juniper showed us where to look. We walked across the dam looking for them. Down the ramp we went, seeing the pattern of waterfalls on the way down, down to the observation area, like a real-life-wild-salmon aquarium. It was full of fish! We watched them for a while, and as the kids’ teacher this year, I dutifully took advantage of the science lesson splayed out for us on the wall: an illustrated essay about how the fish needed to swim upstream to their birthplace to make their babies. We played popcorn, reading different parts of the lesson. Even Juniper read a bit – the last line – after getting over her initial hesitations. I just remember a little bit: a map showing the 1,700+ rivers in the area. A call to action about how we could help the salmon be safer:

  • Help limit city runoff
  • Use fewer garden chemicals
  • Use soaps with no phosphates
  • Use absorbent mulch, not plastic tarps on the gardens, to help the earth soak up the rains
  • Let trees grow over the rivers, so the fish can stay cool

I’m hoping the girls remember some of that, too. I think they will remember seeing the dozens of fish outside the ladders waiting for the energy to climb one more set of stairs upstream. Lucky for the fish, there were no seals surrounding for them. Just a flowing and peaceful river presenting a journey ahead.

In classic fashion, the journey back was at least as fun as the one there. Juniper showed us the hills across the river that were perfectly set up for rolling. She didn’t manage to convince a slightly tired and grumpy Paloma to climb up to the top, so we settled for a smaller hill with a climbing tree and a decent rolling place. And then the golden hour arrived and we snapped a few pictures of silly kids playing on the goose-poop littered lawn. Ew, gross. But fun! Cartwheels, handstands, fireman weaves, and playing princess in the shadows of the tall trees.

Once again, Seattle delivered.

Chihuly is a Crowd Pleaser

Ok, they guy’s project was to use every color in the arsenal. You’ve got to love that – especially if you’re 10 or 12 years old, and the colors are bright, saturated and glossy like the biggest pieces of candy you’ve ever imagined. The guy is the AC⚡︎DC of the art world: nothing too deep, just pure power, emotion, delight. Go Big or Go Home!

The entrance should warn you, Gardens of Glass is actually a playground: CHILDREN REQUIRED TO ENTER. I thought it was pretty cool, pretty big and grand, but too many years of art school and snobby grown-up critique planted words like “gaudy” in my brain. Kids are the perfect remedy. They don’t have that handicap. They see it fresh, new eyes soaking up the pure chromatic saturation.

But remember, like a playground, approach it from down low. From the ground and it was even bigger, even better. He designed the place to be viewed from 3 feet low. Dale made it larger than life, so get down on the ground and make it larger again.

Go dude, you nailed it. Sometimes too much is too much. And sometimes it’s not. Make it Big, make it crazy, make it horrible, make it beautiful. Use those bright colors. Use all of them, and then envelop us with them.

well that was scary

ok rachel. I’m glad you’re alive. That was a scare yesterday. You bit that spoon in half.

New photo by Hayes Raffle / Google Photos

I did not like that one bit, seeing your body slump on the floor and stop answering me. I was glad to still be in the US, to still have Google health insurance (for a few more days…) to be with friends who can help. I was glad you kept breathing, I was glad you woke up, snapped back out of it and talked to me again. I was glad the EMTs were kind, and careful. I was glad for the people at Swedish Ballard, for Cindy your Nurse, and that we beat the rush. I was glad that the Doctor’s 26 point exam didn’t find anything, and the CT scan didn’t either.

New photo by Hayes Raffle / Google Photos

I was glad you nagged the kids about their manners tonight at dinner, and made a few demands afterwards too. You’re feeling stronger again.

I love you. Please don’t do that again. I want you just the way you are.

Weather Forecast in Camp Trinity: Fun with a chance of exciting

Family camp. An unforgettable experience that you can keep coming back for every year. Last year I went to regular camp as well as family camp and decided I liked family camp more because there were fewer rules, more play, and more little kids. This year at family camp I had so much fun doing pottery, playing with Stone, (my 2 year old friend) horseback riding, milking goats, hiking and so much more.


Here are some pictures of some of our experiences:


Making a pot

Holding the kitten down at the barn

Milking the goats at 7 am


Watching the expert milk the goat at 7 am


Goat ninja


The stinky and messy pigs


Frying freshly picked apples on the grill


Car crash off the edge of the mountain right next to camp


Playing with Stone

Fresh water springs on our hike


Treacherous 6 hour hike up Gates mountain


Up the hill again

Garden dinner buffet


Garden dinner set up


Walking down to dinner from our platform


Horseback riding


Last day at the swim hole

The Oregon Blackout

The sky started off brighter than usual because the sun started off so strong. We were out on the grass in front of our Airbnb house with a bright blue sky and an even brighter sun. With the eclipse glasses, we could look directly at the sun. With the glasses on it looked kind of orange, and as we looked at it, it started looking like an apple with a bite out of it. It began to turn into a bigger bite, and then a bigger bite and then it started to turn into a crescent shaped moon, but instead of the moon, the crescent was actually the sun!

The sky started to get darker and darker and about 30 minutes into the beginning of the eclipse it looked like dusk. We had to pull out a jacket because the sun started slowly exiting, and we were losing our warmth. About 45 minutes into the gazing the sun turned into a sliver and outside started getting darker and darker. Everyone began jumping up and down as the sky started turning darker and darker, and then the sky turned black.

The two minutes of totality in one word. Unbelievable. We started to see the moon crossing over the sun, and finally, it happened. We took off our glasses to enjoy the full solar eclipse. We could see the moon with gleaming light coming out the sides. We could see the 360 sunset on the horizon.

Then the sun crept back out and we put our glasses back on and looked at the sun for a little bit longer, left with the feeling of watching the earth grow dark so fast and then lighten back up like nothing happened.

Glamping – with crafts!

Ahh, family camp. I sort of thought camp was just for kids until I went to sign up Paloma last year and realized IT’S FOR ME TOO! Unbeknowst to me, my childhood camp, the Bar 717 Ranch, started doing family camp where we could all go together. Now, as sweet as it sounded, I would not have wanted to do this as a kid. My favorite thing about camp was reinventing myself in a safe place where my complicated home life was not a factor. But…Paloma went to both kid camp and family camp with us last year, and she said she’d rather go back only to family camp.

Fewer rules. More play time. Easier.

And that’s what camp seems to be. A whole lot of fresh air and happiness. A clay room, and crafts, and silkscreening, and hiking with sunrises, and swimming in a fresh river every day.

The weird thing is that camp really hasn’t changed at all. I mean AT ALL. The song book has not even been updated. I think the newest tune in there is For What It’s Worth, which was written in…1967? Anyway, the hippies got their way up there. Tie die still rules the roost.

But I love it. Peace and love and lots of fresh air. Nice people to help cook and clean and sing with us and make it fun and easy.

What a nice way to start this trip. Fun and easy. And together, with my girls. <3

Now for some photos:

Before leaving: one last selfie on the back yard trampoline.

Paloma finds a happy barn cat.

The chickens are feathered.

Anika holds no reservation to get up and dance during the camp songs. Too much sugar? Nah…

Anika’s newest best little-brother-she-never-got, Stone.

The smoke rolled in sometimes from Oregon fires, making unreal morning sunrise colors.

Paloma took this upside down photo in the pond one morning on the walk from our sleeping platform to the meal platform.

Anika is truly un-talented, as shown in her fabulous performance of “meow.”

 

We milked the goat. The baby still posed with us even though we stole her breakfast.

Anika composes “meow” with Illa.

And the big swing was…big.

An afternoon with Paloma.

The swim hole was always the perfect temperature for a swim, especially on really hot days.

My sunglasses match the local nuts!

The hike up Gates mountain was not really on a trail so much as a fire break. And it was steep. Really steep. For a really long time. We had to slide down at times….

Previous hikers’ support message, 1/4 mile from the top.

The sun is rising!

And we hike.

And we hike.

Stopping points on the way to gates. A teepee, cool. A fresh water spring, yum.

Farm dinner at the river!

Ropes course with Anika: The Flying Squirrel. Have you ever done that? You run, and then as you’re diving off the edge of a hill, your 22 friends pull you up about twenty feet into the air and you just start flying. It was REALLY fun.

Sunday morning breakfast was so fun we did it twice! On Tuesday morning I got inspired to make “french apples” as a counsellor called them, fried on the wood fired grill and later turned into a pancake.

Paloma crafts a bowl.

That pig would snort back every time I snorted at it.

 

My horse Sage was super big and super awesome. So nice. Probably all of the hearts on her bridle.

My girls on horses, off to the river for a swim.

This is what happens to your car when you space out and drive off the cliff. This happened on wednesday morning at 5 am. Yikes. Guy climbed out alive – amazing.

Boat race!

Mini Crockie! Anika could not bring her lovie on our trip because it’s too big, and too old (it was mine, and my sister’s and my mom’s, so it’s seen a long life of love). So, I decided to up my dad-game and make a mini lovie for anika’s journey.

At the eating platform, enjoying one final delicious farm meal together.

2017 Solar Eclipse: Turner, Oregon

We started the whole family part of our journey with a trip to Turner, Oregon to view the 2017 Solar Eclipse. We rented a small home that included a horse, chickens and ample land to gaze up at the sky with friends who traveled from Portland and Palo Alto. The experience was more spectacular than I anticipated. After a bright, clear, sunny morning, the sky went dark, the air became cold, the animals were noisy and then quiet, and at totality when the moon was completely aligned in front of the sun, there was a ring of swirling, bright rays around a black circle in the sky. We were all gasping and jumping up and down in amazement. It felt a lot like a birth.

Bezerkeley

After departing Palo Alto, I spent a few days in Berkeley with my closest friend from childhood who has remained my friendological sister (a term coined by our children). I love Berkeley: the delicious food, welcoming friends, and liberal hipness. I loved my cozy days reconnecting with old friends, savoring Emily's beautiful children, and eating fresh, California cuisine. While I was there, my family was enjoying a week at Bar717, a working ranch that offers a family camp at the end of each summer. A part of my chest hurt from missing them in spite of how much I enjoyed not being responsible for anyone or anything for a few days. Now on the road in Portland, a piece of my chest misses those people. This is that hardest part of moving and traveling: a piece of my heart is always aching for people I love elsewhere.

Bye, bye Palo Alto

It’s happening. Less than twenty four hours until I bid adieu to the community I’ve called home for nine years. Hayes and the girls departed last Sunday and I stuck around to catch up on some appointments and connect with a few people. In that time, our president has vulgarly condoned white supremacy, another local high schooler has committed suicide, and I have heard friends stress about the scheduling Tetris that is the reality of privileged Palo Alto parents. 

Finally, I can answer the question, “What are you looking forward to?” I am looking forward to less. Less hatred, less stuff, less to do, less tension, less pressure, and fewer distraction.

Yet still I will miss this place and it’s people. Friends, please hold our children tight. We’ll be back in one rotation around the sun.

total solar magnificence

I can’t stop thinking about the corona. I think that’s what it’s called. The sun, when it was fully obscured, looked like it was billowing with cotton candy, streaming out from the glowing ring in long wispy strings of white. I guess they are always there, but we can’t see them. What other amazingly beautiful things in nature’s creation can’t we see?
I was surprised by a few things. How long it took: hours! How weird the darkness was: like dark gray sunglasses. How much more fun the anticipation was, than the second half: like childhood versus old age. How very cold it got: cold enough that Rachel got her jacket. And how completely spectacular the eclipse was: the enormity of it; how big the sun seemed with the corona; how much the sky seemed more alive during the sun’s partial death than it usually does in the bright, too-glaring-to-watch daytime that I love thoughtlessly each day.
If I could witness that every day, I would do it. I would stop everything I was doing and stare at the sun for those two minutes and try to drag them to eternity in my memory. Try to burn the details of the rapidly changing skyscape into my visual memory for my eternity.
There are no photos, no videos, no records that quite capture it. It was too much. Too dynamic. Too unique for human representation.

Totally Terrific Totality

It’s bright. Brighter than I’ve ever seen the sun before. So bright that you can’t look at the sun without protective glasses.

And then all of a sudden a bite is taken out of the sun. It’s a small bite, as if a young child is taking a bite out of the sun. Although it can’t have been made by teeth because soon the bite is making the sun look more and more like a crescent moon. Our glasses make it so all we can see is the sun and black surrounding it. Gazing up is the world around me, all looking at the same thing. The moon eating the sun.

It is now just sliver of the sun left to see. And then everything goes dark. We are now in total totality. The birds are all quiet. You can see a star in the sky, it’s that dark. We all take off our glasses and stare at the beauty of space and the universe around us. There is no sun visible. No moon. Just a blue sky and Venus.

After jumping up and down about a thousand times, the sun starts to creep back to its place and we one by one go inside, having seen a full solar eclipse.

 

Hawaii Paradise

Hawaii (n):

Definition: Palm trees, coconuts, ocean, sun, markets, health food.

Synonym-Paradise

 

As soon as I stepped foot off the plane, a blast of hot, sticky, and humid, yet comforting air hit me. I was greeted by my grandparents and two cousins in their dusty Toyota Highlander with the rainbow license plate by the gate.

Our first stop was the gas station. Even the gas station is perky in Hawaii! Next stop: Kukuliula Market and a salad. My salad had perfectly cooked purple sweet potatoes, fresh and crispy kale, quinoa, toasted almonds and a nice balsamic vinaigrette.

From the market we drove straight to Waimea plantation cottages and stayed in a cozy, authentic, Hawaiian home. By then, We were tired and went right to bed. We woke up to screaming roosters. Following breakfast, (sausage, eggs, and a pineapple smoothie) we went down to the Black sand beach and my cousin Leyla and I played in the waves. As soon as we got tired we started digging holes. We started with a little hole, then a bigger hole, then a bigger one, and finally when we thought it was huge, the ocean had huge in mind too, and sent a huge wave coming our way. We tried to block the hole with our bodies, but it was too late. Our crater had turned into a puddle. After our defeat, we went to the pool and swam for a couple of hours. By then, it was dinner time and we ate leftover soup from the night before. We were exhausted and went right to sleep.

Only one hour after we woke up we had to pack up all of our stuff and leave the Waimea Plantation Cottages. From the cottages, we went back to kukuliula market. This time I got the same salad I had gotten before, and a poke bowl.

From kukuliula market, we drove to the Hyatt Kauai. We were immediately greeted at the door with orchid lei’s. The next two days we spent completely in the pools, lagoons, and on the wonderful waterslide.

The last night, we went to my favorite restaurant in the whole world. The Eating House. For starters we had some edamame with toasted dark sesame seed oil. Yum. Then for appetizers we had some pork dumplings with a crispy exterior and soft, moist center. We also had light, delicate calamari with a creamy and fresh aioli. Mmmm. Then, for dinner came the butterfish. Its flaky, delicate, moist, and flavorful body complimented the bed of crispy rice, stuck to the hot and sizzling cast iron skillet, with fresh roasted veggies. Delish. Then, came the best part. The dessert. It was served to us on a sparkling clean, white plate with a raspberry drizzle. It was small, but had big bursting flavor in every bite you took. Gooey peanut butter chocolate lava cake. It had a crispy exterior and a soft, moist, gooey interior.

Then we drove to the hotel and went right to bed. As soon as we woke up, we went down to the pool just for a few hours. A little while later, we ordered lunch. I got fish tacos. They were crispy and fried, with avocado and lettuce. Then we drove to my grandparents house on the north side. On the drive there is a special tunnel made entirely out of naturally grown trees. When we go through that tunnel, we hold our breath all the way through and make a wish.

As soon as we got to their house, Leyla and I read in the hammock and set up the tent where we would sleep the following nights. Then we drove into town and went to the bakery for dinner. I had a salad and a small piece of meat pizza.

That night, we slept in the tent outside. When we woke up we walked down 280 steps to get to secret beach which is a beach connected to my grandparents house. We swam in the clear water and found many shells. The waves were very calm and it was a really nice swim. Then we walked back up the 280 steps to the house. Then Leyla and I made some for a few hours. We set up a slime table in the backyard with glue, tide, baking soda, contact lens solution, shaving cream and water. After we finished, we spent the rest of the day back down at secret beach for some birthdays. That trip was the shell jackpot. I found so many pretty ones. My uncle took many really amazing shots with his drone. We walked back up the 280 steps and made more slime.

Then came the feast. We had a delicious freshly grown salad, Thai coconut soup, basmati rice and freshly grilled eggplant. For dessert we had delicious macadamia nut pie and fresh homemade mango sorbet.

Then we went to bed. We slept in the tent and that night it poured. The water leaked into our tent a little bit, but overall, we were dry. The next morning we got up and went to this pool. We had French fries, shave ice and a lot more junk food. We played in the hotel pool and on that hotel water slide. Then we went to Hanalei beach again and body surfed some more waves. We also boogie board.

After we got home we ate leftover soup, made some slime, and went to bed. The next morning we had a delicious breakfast feast that contained sausage, eggs, eggplant, and a selection of freshly picked papaya, pineapple, and bananas.

We drove down to kalihiwai and figured out that the waves were huge. We swam for a little bit, but then it became too much and we got out of the ocean. When we got home and relaxed, made some slime, played in the hot tub and read. Then we went to sleep.

It was the first night that I was sleeping alone in the tent. It rained a little bit but the tent didn’t get wet on the inside. Then it was back to Hanalei and mini golf. Nobody got a hole in one but we got very close many times. Right before mini golfing, we went to a nice beach called Hanalei. I surfed and body surfed and caught a lot of waves. Adventure in Kauai and now it is off to Cayucos.

 

Just finished Stanford soccer camp.

From Friday to Tuesday I went to a Stanford soccer camp. There were a range of kids from nine to fifteen. The team names were based on countries, and I was in Mexico. We lost the first game, tied the second, and we won the last two. After the four games, Mexico got there’s place in the tournament, (there were a lot of teams. Like ten or something.) On Monday, we did a skit night with all of the teams including the older girls teams. Over all I had a great soccer camp.

xmas in s africa

A decision made!
My rationale, just sort of "thinking out loud": 
  • we'd never go there on a normal holiday break
  • our friends are super comfortable in Africa, so that will be a treat to be there with them
  • other friends we've traveled with told us we'd love cape town, and I believe them. ? 
  • I think it will be interesting and different from home, but easy too (speak english, things will be familiar enough) so we can relax
  • looks like great waves for the girls, and plenty of other things to do for the group. the girls can wear wetsuits.

east or west…

which way should we go? Here’s a link to an interactive map you can play with.
A main thing on my mind with the planning is, will we have breaks when we want them, so we don’t get too worn out? Here are the plans so far, with what I expect will be the harder parts in bold.

The original plan: head east

  1. Iceland. Hiking, crazy landscapes. Climate Change.
  2. Europe. Friends, show our kids Switzerland (honeymoon!), take a train, eat cheese and chocolate (make cheese and chocolate?). Learn western civ.
  3. Morocco. Start exploring more different cultures
  4. Israel, Jordan, Egypt. See friends, explore ancient and modern civilizations. Mid east politics past and present.
  5. South Africa for xmas. Colonialism, apartheid.
  6. India. Get out of our comfort zone, see a really different lifestyle
  7. Nepal, Bhutan. Mountains, landscapes, hiking, buddhism. Chinese culture, Mongolian history, geology.
  8. Australia. Friends.
  9. New Zealand. Hike, tour. Take a break.
  10. Tahiti. Surfing!
  11. Argentina, Guatemala, Mexico. Learn Spanish and learn about latin cultures before coming home.

 

A new plan: head West

This plan doesn’t really make much sense yet. Will we burn out before xmas? Will we be sad that we never learned Spanish in S/Central America? Here’s where it’s at:

  1. Australia. Soft start for the kids: English speaking, swimming, see friends.
  2. Mongolia. See the golden eagle festival. Indigenous culture, really different. Cold, barren landscapes.
  3. India. More different cultures
  4. Nepal. Visit Sophie. Mountains.
  5. Bhutan. Mountains, landscapes, buddhism
  6. More of E. Asia: Vietnam, Cambodia
  7. Sri Lanka. Slow down on some islands. Still cultural
  8. Maldives. beach vacation.
  9. UAE: modern mid east, oil & economics
  10. S Africa: xmas. apartheid, beach, safari
  11. Egypt, Jordan: ancient civ + modern ones
  12. Israel: take a break with friends. Zionism. Jewish history.
  13. Morocco: food, mixing of cultures
  14. Spain: into W. Europe
  15. Turkey
  16. W Europe and Iceland
  17. Vacation in Greece with Friends
  18. Home

Inline image 1

Plan #2 covers all the continents:

  1. Head S towards central America.
  2. Mexico, Guatemala. Learn Spanish
  3. Colombia, Chile, Brazil, Argentina: explore S America
  4. Antarctica: 2 weeks on a research vessel to learn about the wildlife and climate change
  5. S Africa for xmas. colonialism, apartheid, safari, surfing.
  6. Mid East: Egypt, Jordan, Israel. Cultures, past and present. Zionism.
  7. Morocco: mixing of cultures
  8. W Europe: Spain, France, Netherlands
  9. Iceland in the late winter. Waterfalls and northern lights.
  10. Turkey
  11. India
  12. Nepal, Bhutan
  13. Mongolia
  14. New Zealand: take a break, do some outdoors & hiking
  15. Indonesia & Papau New Guinea. See some very different cultures.
  16. Australia: take another break, hang out with friends
  17. Tahiti: vacation
  18. Home!

Inline image 2

from…the living room

all the ladies are out of town. Just me and Norah Jones here in the living room, trying to manage a whole lot of to-do’s and to-figure-outs. I put about 200 pictures on the walls so I can start thinking more visually about all the places we might go… it helps, sort of.

I noticed this weird thing where travel pictures don’t have people in them. Weird! It seems to me that the people are the major attraction. Sure, hiking, and surfing, and cycling, and waterfalls are all AMAZING, but…. So are the people. So I found pictures of people and food, but it wasn’t easy.

Maybe by tomorrow I’ll figure out the top two questions:
  • where to go for the xmas holiday, since Ella’s family will join us?
  • should we travel east or west?
I’ll keep you posted.
+hayes

The Pros and Cons of letting your parents talk you into walking the dish.

Pro: You could have a very good time running up and down the hills with your sister.

Con: Then you might get a cramp in your side and a pain in your left knee.
Pro: You get to spend time with your family.

Con: However you have to do that while swatting away bugs and wasps.

Pro: When you sprint down and up three hills you’re parents are very proud of you and may even suggest that you try out for cross-country.

Con: That statement doesn’t make you feel as good as it seems when you don’t want to do cross-country and just ran because you were being bombarded by bugs. (Have I mentioned that the bugs there particularly like me.)

Pro: You feel very good if you get a mile ahead of your parents.

Con: But then you don’t get so hyped if they catch up.

Pro: You may discover a secret shortcut.

Con: You may also find that it’s covered in pricks and that your sister doesn’t want to go, so you are forced not to discover the unknown.

Pro: You get to see many animals such as deer and wild turkeys.

Con: Have I mentioned that Mama turkeys don’t like people to mess with their babies.

Pro: You can share this experience with your friends.

Con: Well there really is no con for that.

Early Thanksgiving

The scenery of cacti and succulents everywhere greets you as you sit down at the straw and granite tables in matching chairs. The cool wind blows on your face pleasantly as you take your first bit of turkey. It lands on your mouth delicately as you chomp through the crispy skin, down to the tender spatchcocked meat, and finally into the polenta mushroom stuffing, which you can get all on its own delicately placed on your plate. As you move on from the turkey and stuffing, your eyes immediately fall on the green chards and carmelized sweet onions. As they touch your tongue, the soft greens veer you from everything else, and as soon as that pleasure begins, the sweet yet still sharp onions bring you back gradually into reality. They prepare you for the sweet, starchy yet creamy whitish golden sweet potatoes. In the same dish bright orange yams dissolve pleasantly on your tongue and as they go down. They end your whole meal perfectly, but as you decide you are happily full, a delectable pumpkin smell drifts through your body, and you change the status of your happily full belly. It now has just the right amount of room for a nice big slice of pumpkin pie with vanilla ice cream. As soon as the pumpkin pie hits your tongue, you are in a completely different atmosphere. The cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice and cloves complement the pumpkin custard very nicely. This pumpkin pie is the creamiest you can find. Rich with half and half and a touch of molasses it leaves just the right feeling in your mouth afterwards. 

Overall Rating – 4 stars

Sam I am

We picked a travel agent yesterday. I guess sometimes DIY is not the best plan. I guess the truth is that Rachel and I love to go on trips, but our favorite ones were planned by friends. We just don’t love planning them. So we found Sam. She’s done this before. A few times. Different every time. And people liked her. Hopefully, we will too. 

We still have to decide whether to travel east or west. Rachel leans towards a soft start in Australia. I’ve got to say, that sounds pleasant and easy. There’s something to that. So maybe that’s our new plan.

So many decisions to make. I spent days planning Iceland, and it seems we may just cancel it all. Sigh. I have “Northwest vacation” on my calendar dar every day now but I’m here at home thinking of the future. The death ride is in 6 days and I have not ridden in 5. I have to get off my bum and get in shape! At least I dressed for it. Just gotta get out of here and do some riding now. 

At least last night was fun. Impromptu trip to see a soccer game. Galaxy played the earthquakes at the Stanford stadium and quakes won it in the 94th minute, which was amazing. Tess and Tricia came to sit with us for a while. We went with Mark and Sonia and kids. They sat near us, not too close. But close enough to all feel a part of the crazy cheering fan section next to us that never stopped hooting and dancing for the entire game. 

A nice cherry on top was the never ending fireworks show after the game. It even topped the halftime show, which was pretty cool. A couple pictures to jog the memory…

Caramel chews

If you like sticky caramel
this is the caramel for you!
If you manage to get the caramel
off the caramel colored wax paper,
the clove flavor will immediately
coat your mouth in a spicy, pleasant taste.

Although the caramel sticks
to the paper it does not
stick to your mouth
at all.

It is very smooth and silky,
which contrasts well with the sweetness,
although the sweetness overpowers
everything else on your palate.
A little bit too much.

Overall rating- 2.5 stars

busy thursday

I didn’t go on the bike ride. I guess I was a bit hung over and woke up late. And I was afraid of the heat. Lame excuses though – I needed the long ride. No long rides yet this year, and the death ride is in less than a month. Sigh. And I’m a bit – how do I say – not at my race weight.

But I think the real excuse was the 8:30 am call to Karine. Wow, we have not talked in a long time! It was nice to reconnect with her. Such a familiar face, from soooo long ago. I’m looking forward to seeing her in southern France. We won’t stay with her, but perhaps will stay nearby. She was excited to have my Mom visiting us there at the same time. She loves my mom.

We were a bit rushed after 45 minutes on skype. We did do morning math again. 2 for 2, but it was less fun today. I have to make them more fun, or we’re not going to want to do them for very long. That’s my job. Fun dad.

Anyhow, I got a lot done today, at least. Long to do list. Crossed off a few of the smaller simpler things that have to be done in advance. Ordered a new passport, so I don’t run out of pages. Called the VW dealerships in WA and CA to see about returning the car. And then filled out more of their paperwork to advance the return process. Made a doctor’s appointment. Made a dentist appointment. Did a writing assignment left over from earlier this week.

Anika tried to get ebooks of the Fred books. Stan said no, in the most polite way imaginable. So…we made our own. YOU CAN’T STOP US, STAN! Rigged up the camera and flash on the tripod, set up a jig, and started flipping pages. 2 hours later we had all the books beautifully scanned, cropped, compressed and bound into nice ebooks. So that’s a good 15 lbs we won’t be schlepping around the world. Thank god.

Picking out backpacks.

After trying on almost too many backpacks I came up with a writing piece of how I spent most of my day.

“Come on Anika, the store opens in thirty minutes,”  I hear my mom call.

“Okay, I’m coming,” I assure her.  After sitting down on the scorching hot  seat, I think otherwise.  But my mom was already backing out of the drive way, so I had no choice.

Ten minutes later, we’re pulling up in front of REI. Without hesitation, I slip out of the car, and sprint to the front doors. In one motion,  I pull open the front doors – or I imagine to at least. In reality, I just keep pulling, and pulling until I finally surrender and ask my mom, “What time is it?”

“10:45,” she replies. I groan, and wait in the 104 degree heat for fifteen more minutes. At 11:00 I push open the double doors I am overcome by relief. Cool air conditioning blows into my face, and I stroll right up to the air vent and stick my face in front of it.

A minute or two pass, and a kind man brings my mom and I to the back packs.

After trying on, looking through, and weighing down what seemed like a hundred back packs I finally decided on a big teal one. I ran it up and down the stairs, fit it to my back, and finally put it down. My back aching like crazy, I non regretfully put the backpack back in the cart. With an assortment of toiletry kits, money pouches, and other trinkets laying alongside my back pack, I leave the store, not planing to come back any time soon.

The Idea

Here I sit in my warm, cozy home where the wood framing around the floor to ceiling windows appears to have been hand cut by Eichler’s crew in the early 1950s. Eichler intended to create diverse and inclusive dwellings for middle-class people. Now this land is populated mostly by technologists, venture capitalists, and academics, people with exceptional educations and above average incomes. In many ways, this community is like Lake Wobegon from Prairie Home Companion. “All the women are strong, all the men are good looking, and all the children are above average.” It is like living in Pleasantville where the weather is 70 degrees year round, and so many people are fair-minded, hard working, and family-focused. There are some downsides to this town. The amount of success, intensity and drive can be overbearing. Some drive too fast, become self-focused and pressure themselves to achieve unhealthy levels of achievement. For the most part though, my family of four enjoys many of the benefits of the area and hasn’t had many direct confrontations with the negatives.

For this reason, I wonder why we are planning to bid ado to our sweet life and traverse the planet for a year. I think credit can partially be given to Cristina Spencer and James Currier, two wonderful friends who think big and feel deeply. Several weeks ago, Hayes and I were at Cristina’s house sipping her husband’s spectacular mixed drinks when Cristina told Hayes about her recently aborted plan to travel the world with her family for a year. I could tell that Hayes was engaged in their conversation but I was busy lamenting the confusing and disgraceful political drama of the day with Tim, Irene and Graham.

A week later in the midst of soccer tournaments, visiting cousins, and last days of school, James Currier joined Hayes for tea on a weekend afternoon. Hayes explained to him that while he liked all of his colleagues and was engaged with his work, a part of him felt discontented. James asked him what he cared most about. Without missing a beat, Hayes explained that his family was what mattered most to him. Our girls, 10 and 12, would soon be adolescents and he felt like our most impactful time with them was slipping away. James, not one to mince words, suggested that Hayes take a year and focus on family.

At this point, I returned home to the 12 year old and her cousin making chocolate guacamole, fudgsicles, and fruit roll ups and the guys asked me what I thought about traveling the world for a year. “The hundred days of May” when a mom of elementary school age children is challenged with fitting 100 days worth of activities into thirty is a “special period”. My basic MO is to say yes whenever possible, so… I said, “Sure,” thinking it may be a passing dream that could add some joy to the afternoon and eventually dissipate. I should know better. Hayes is a man who can turn an idea into action in a nanosecond, and this was not the first time that James had suggested an idea that significantly changed the direction of our family life.

Years earlier, James and his fabulous wife, Trina, had invited us and several other families to Costa Rica with their family. I thanked them and declined, saying that we tended to be frugal with our travel plans. He then told Hayes and me about a friend of his who spent three months traveling with her family and returned home to discover that she had cancer and a short life expectancy. He reported that the family had been so grateful to have had that intensive time together. The combination of the story and the storytelling had an enormous impact on Hayes and me. We joined the jubilant 2010 “Verde Como Lechuga” trip and have traveled several times a year ever since.

 

Hello world!

Looking forward to getting to know you a bit better, big wide world out there.

A few people asked me why we’re going on this trip. Well, here are my main goals:

  1. Be with my family, and get to know them better
  2. Slower and deeper lifestyle. bonding. learning
  3. Visit friends
  4. get our of our bubble. get some context of our place in the world
  5. stay health and safe