Around the World in 303 Days: A Report of Global Technology Use

This past year I traveled with my family to 25 countries across 6 continents. In each place we visited, we cooked, ate, shopped, attended school and spoke together about daily life. I talked to people about their technology use and learned how people really use our products around the world.

In this talk, I make bold claims like “No one uses Google in the developing world” and tell you why. Then I provide counterexamples, like why a Cambodian Tuk-Tuk driver streams YouTube to his customers in Siem Reap. I talk about what everyone was doing with their phones, and how infrastructure affected people’s lives in different places. I also talk about what it was like to travel at an insane pace with my family.

Things I learned this year

People have asked me things like “what were the big ‘ah-hah’s’?” Or, “any big take-aways?” As part of my reflections on the year, I wrote down some things which seem like “big learnings.” There were a lot of them so stay tuned for a few different posts about Politics, Empires, Infrastructure, Economics, Religion and Human Rights, Technology in Developing Countries, and some good Books. It will be interesting to look back on these later and see how many I still agree with. 🙂

I hope you enjoy!

Politics

Communism is dead. While some countries still claim to be communist (China, Vietnam, Cambodia) they have market economies, so it’s not clear what communism really means there. It seems to mean that they have a big, deep totalitarian government that is involved in all aspects of life.

The Khmer Rouge still runs Cambodia. It’s really hard to get rid of bad people.

Corruption is everywhere – it’s just a matter of degree. When the richest people are in government, you know the government is corrupt. When the cops demand bribes instead of enforcing laws, you know it’s bad.

Government really matters. When I was younger I used to ignore it and think it didn’t matter. I was wrong. Different kinds of governments can really make life easier or harder for people. Taxes are one thing, sure. So is corruption. But it’s different when people disappear and no one can say anything. People live with anxiety and fear in such places (Vietnam, Cambodia, South Africa, Egypt). It’s not a nice feeling to have all the time.

Democracy is hard work. In Egypt a few people independently told me they don’t think Egyptians are ready for democracy, because they don’t know what it is and how to vote intelligently. Their recent democratic elections led to radical islamists coming in to power and trying to change the government to be religious and totalitarian. They said Egyptians should be educated in democracy before they have the freedom to vote. \\ In South Africa someone told me that South Africans don’t know what freedom means, and that’s why things are so broken there. Many people think it means “I get things for free” like free houses and free welfare. They don’t understand that it means that people can choose their own (economic) path, but they are accountable for their own actions.

A secular government is really, really different than a religious one. Religious governments use religious mantras to justify anything they wish to do – and because of this, religion makes the leaders too powerful. Secular governments seem to control fewer aspects of life, whereas religious ones want to control all aspects of life. This becaume clear when we visited Turkey: We expected it to be similar to Egypt or the middle east, but instead it was much more similar to the US or Western Europe, with a secular democracy – even though they are 99.8% muslim. Granted, they have their problems with President Erdogan seizing power in the press and the courts, and eroding the checks and balances, but because they have a notion of checks and balances, and the culture seems much more European as a result.

Western democracies seem to struggle over a central tension between equality and liberty. Equality, at its most basic, means everyone has the same thing. Liberty, at its most basic, means everyone may choose their own path. In some ways they are contradictory, and this may underlie a lot of political disagreement in the West.

Empires

China is taking over SE Asia. China seems to be in control of Vietnam, and Vietnam seems to be in control of Cambodia. They have already claimed Tibet, Taiwan, Hong Kong, and are rapidly expanding into many islands of the South China sea, including ones that used to belong to Vietnam. (Vietnam is not even complaining – perhaps they owe favors from when the Chinese armed the Vietnamese communists during the civil war.) Bhutan is afraid of China, and has allied with India to have some protection.

Chinese tourism is completely taking off – it’s huge. There is a lot of middle-class disposable income in China now and people are traveling more. Chinese are not interested in supporting local economies – they want familiarity and home comforts. So they bring their own tour companies, their own cooks and restaurants, their own chinese-run hotels, etc. The locals make little money from this arrangement. This may be a sign of China as an upcoming economic superpower that wants to bring Chinese culture throughout the world.

India is big, disorganized, but powerful. They have a lot of food, and lot of people – 1.4 Billion right now! That’s a lot of “human capital.”

Language reveals history. Why do we speak English in the US? Because the British conquered our land. Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Kenya, and India also speak English because the British invaded those lands at one point and made people there learn English (and sometimes killed people who didn’t). Similarly, Brazilians and Uruguayan speak Portuguese because Portugal invaded them in the past and forced them to speak a new tongue, or die. Central and South Americans who speak Spanish do it because the Spaniards forced their ancestors to, or were Spaniards themselves.

I think the Spanish were the most brutal of the European conquerors. The Inquisition came to the Americas with the glory of God and proceeded to massacre millions of natives, stole their gold, their land, their food, and their history from them. They left the Spanish language behind though, and lots of churches. The British built their empire differently, using businesses and private capital to extend the empire (although the crown often chose to step in later). They were not always so nice either, for example in the opium wars the British navy attacked China in order to keep opium legal in China and keep British opium businesses alive – even though addiction was basically an epidemic there and the government really wanted to do the right thing for their people.

Genghis Khan, who I always knew as a brutal warlord, is celebrated as the hero and founder of Mongolia. He united the tribes in Mongolia, and then within 25 years he created an empire controlling half of Asia (it took Rome 350 years to get as big). In empire-building, expanding through fear seems to be faster than through influence.

Infrastructure

If a country can make enough food, they are OK. Everything else is secondary. (In part this is because having food requires having water.) In countries that were agriculturally rich, like Vietnam and India, people live with a certain ease and comfort, despite worries they may have about politics. People are worried about politics almost everywhere.

I used to think infrastructure was king of boring. Now that I see how many people live without things like water, toilets, electricity and internet, I appreciate it a lot more. It seemed to me that the priorities for infrastructure went something like this:

  1. Shelter and clothing.
  2. Food. If you have food, you are ok. If not, you may have a revolution.
  3. Water (need this to make food). If it’s not clean people survive but suffer. People with bad water will not revolt (they may be too weak to revolt).
  4. People. Friends, community.
  5. Jobs. People revolt over this too. We all need a purpose, what to contribute, and need money for the basics listed above. This is especially true in cities where people can’t live off the land (everything is imported into cities).
  6. Electricity
  7. Entertainment.
  8. Education. Low on the list because it really matters, but people are often sort of lazy and would rather watch TV than learn something useful.
  9. Internet. It’s still a novelty in the developing world.

When the power went off in Spain, I noticed that a modern city without electricity is quite similar to an East African village. Electricity brings light at night, a modern kitchen with things like refrigeration, time-saving devices like washer/dryers, and the internet. In rural Zimbabwe many people would have a solar panel for their cell phone and maybe a light bulb. It’s quite transformative.

Economics

Money is everywhere – it is almost like a global language. Everybody uses money, and everybody pretty much uses it in the same ways. Market economics have taken over even the few communist countries left.

The US Dollar is the king of currencies – everyone wants it and it works everywhere (some countries like Cambodia and Zimbabwe will even offer USD along with local currency in the ATM machines.)

English is “the language of trade,” as a Jordanian put it to me. It’s valuable to know English – more and better jobs are available.

In some countries money controls power. In other countries power controls money.

The central concept in modern economics is growth. This concept has enabled investment capital to give rise to startup companies, the stock markets, and the population explosion since the industrial revolution. Countries that prioritize growth are rewarded with foreign investment and trade.

Despite the global success of market economics, some older traditions still hold. In East Africa, most people measure wealth in cows. Dowries are paid in cows (and there are conversion rates for different kinds of cows to dollars). Cows have intrinsic value (milk, cheese, meat) and also can be moved to follow the changing landscapes. This has been important because weather changes demand migration. (Fun fact: the Maasai told us they own all the cows in the world – even the ones in California. Some day they will come claim them!)

Corporations are the second most powerful entities in the world, after governments. They both have the power to shape and change lots of people’s lives.

Capitalism, left unregulated, can lead to horrible outcomes such as the Atlantic slave trade. Slaves were brought to America because businesses were financing most of the European expansion and investors in Europe wanted larger profits. Free labor helps increase profits. So companies started importing lots of slaves. Africa was a big source because germs killed most of the American natives, and Africans already had an established trade of malaria-resistant slaves who survived in the tropics. This sort of thing happens because corporations’ only responsibility is to maximize profits, while human societies also value ethics and morals. The lesson is that capitalism needs some limits/regulation/balance or else some people can suffer horribly.

Religion and Human Rights

Religion is a really big organizing force all over the world. Nearly everyone seems to be religious. The Abrahamic religions (Judaism, Christianity, Islam) are all fairly similar, even though people fight over the details. Some religions, like Hinduism and Buddhism, are really different. Christianity and Islam, two “universal” religions (one god for everyone, everywhere) are competing, via proselytizing, to be the dominant religion in the world.

Lots of people mix old (often animistic) religions with newer ones: shinto + buddhism in Japan; Hinduism+old gods and spirit worship in India; Christianity and witch doctors in South Africa.

Some people, like my wife, are atheists – atheists I met either come from a liberal democratic foundation in which reason provides an ethical foundation and liberalism is the community, or from communist foundations where communism itself was viewed as the religion.

Hinduism and the caste system are alive and well in India. They support each other and they don’t seem to be going anywhere, because everyone seems to play along with the rules.

The UN has this concept that peace requires basic human rights to be fulfilled: food, clean water, jobs, education, community. When these things get disrupted, people will stop being peaceful.

People seem to be tribal everywhere. Sometimes this leads to racism. Racist governments are the worst because governments have the ability to make life horrible for certain people.

Women have few rights and little power in most of the world. They also do most of the work in most rural developing areas we visited (cook, clean, fetch water, birth and raise children, farming), and it was not uncommon to hear about husbands who were drunk or just lazy.

Human Rights, as a concept, is a liberal western invention from the enlightenment. But it’s helping the world be more peaceful, safer and healthier for a lot of people.

The Millennium Development Goals from the UN outline the basic needs everyone should have to enjoy a peaceful world. They are pretty awesome. Check them out if you haven’t.

 

Technology in Developing Countries

What people do with their phones

I asked people all over the developing world, what do you do with your phone? People everywhere use it to contact people. Phones are about people.

Every single person I spoke to mentioned Facebook, WhatsApp or Instagram as the first thing they do with their phone. Facebook owns all 3! Why these apps? They work. They work off the grid, with crappy networks, on crappy phones, and they are super pleasant to use, even when the network is unreliable.  In some places (like parts of India) Facebook is the whole technology experience. People use the Facebook Business pages for business, the friends features to support their communities. Google doesn’t matter in these places – it is more of a convenience than a necessity, and not something people think of when they think “my phone.”

I asked people, do you use Google? “Oh, yes, uncle Google!” People may use search and they probably use YouTube if they can afford the bandwidth. But in some places Google Search seemed more like a novelty, like the truth really needed to come from a human being, preferably someone you knew (and in these places sometimes YouTube was preferred to Google Search, because there was a person delivering the answer). Maps is sometimes used if there is local data (traffic is reliable many places). Many other Google products (hangouts, photos) are basically non-functional on unreliable networks. Gmail is reliable, but email is not popular compared to messaging apps like WhatsApp.

Learning with tech

When people teach “technology,” they are teaching Windows Office: MS Word, Excel, and Power Point. (I assume they are somehow getting this for free, but I’m not sure.) They may have the internet, but not know how to use it for learning. For example, most technology educators I met did not know there’s free education online with things like Khan Academy, nor do people know about or use Google Apps for Education.

Handsets + Mobile Infrastructure

People still do a lot of voice and SMS, in part because old Nokia infrastructure exists and works in rural places. Good 4G infrastructure will unlock a lot of latent markets in which people currently often own 2 phones. (Heard in Indonesia: “This is my Nokia for calls and texts – it works everywhere – and this is my Instagram phone.”)

People do business with their phones everywhere. Sending money around is part of this, and even in southeast Africa where smartphones are rare, people exchange money with GSM codes on networks like Ecocash. Most communication there is phone/SMS but I can imagine Facebook may take over as they are doing in places like India.

The prices of internet varies widely. In Cambodia, it’s $1 / month for unlimited 4G. In Kenya the prices are equivalent to the USA, so no one can afford it. (People have satellite TV for $20 / month in Africa, though.)

People don’t know about Android, and that Google made that. The phone comes from the hardware manufacturer: people never say I have an Android phone, they say things like, I have this cheap Chinese phone… someday I want an iPhone because they are more reliable.

No one seems to be making the “Honda of cell phones,” i.e. something targeting consumers that is reliable and well designed, which “just works” and which doesn’t need to be replaced after 3 years. I think there’s probably a big opportunity here, if a company can get the runway needed (probably 7-10 years to become profitable).

 

Good Books

I learned a few interesting things from these books this year. 

I read Sapiens: A Brief History of Humankind three times this year. It’s amazing. If you enjoyed reading these recent posts, read this book.

Guns, Germs, and Steel: The Fates of Human Societies is good too. A bit slow and academic, so skim it after the first chapter(s).

The Righteous Mind: Why Good People are Divided by Politics and Religion, is also good. Read the beginning and ending, and skim the middle.

Also, my daughters are both writing books this year. Paloma’s is about the experiences of children she met around the world this year. Anika’s is a series of bedtime stories and poems about animals of the world. I can’t wait for them to be published!

 

Brighter Than a Phone Booth


A neon yellow smock calls out, “make your calls here.” Peruvians who run out of credit on their prepaid cell phone plans can find help in the town square. This lady has two simple feature phones she rents out by the minute. Each phone carries two SIM cards, one for each major carrier here. If you make a 30 second call – “Hello dear. Yes dear. Yes dear. Goodbye dear. I love you.” – they charge you the standard rate of 0.50 sols (about $0.15) for 1 minute, and keep the extra 30 seconds as their profit. One hundred calls added up over a day don’t amount to much, but it’s better than nothing.

There are no unemployment benefits in Peru, so unemployed people create simple jobs to get by. Some people live on very thin margins.

Google Maps: As Good As God

We arrived in Istanbul and met a big, boisterous guide who welcomed us to this ancient metropolis with a big smile, good English, and clean teeth. I always like to understand what matters to people. For our guide, Met, what matters is God. He’s translated the Koran into a few different languages and ensured me that there were only two types of people in this world: Muslims, and bad people. A Muslim, in his definition, is anyone who believes in God, in any religion, or even who just “leads a good life.” I’m a Muslim, according to him, because I clearly lead a good life, evidenced by my wife and children with me. Never mind that I’m Jewish.

Given that Rachel is an atheist, I asked him, “what about atheists.” “There are no atheists,” he told me. Only good people and bad people. You either lead a good life, or you don’t. He gave me a metaphor: “when you open Google Maps to get directions, do you believe it? Of course you do! It’s right!”

While I use and appreciate Google Maps, I let him know that I only believe it sometimes, because it is in fact not always correct and makes all sorts of mistakes. I tried taking the conversation further, but I think it will be a long road to convince Met that I will never consider myself a Muslim, religious conviction only works sometimes, and that science exists because we believe that our ideas are only our current Best-Guesses, and not The Truth.

VR at the Finnish Amerikan School in Turkey

I was surprised and uplifted to see not only a VR headset at the school we visited in Bodrum, Turkey, but some pretty nice looking curriculum accompanying it. The “Amerikan Free” school here boasts 8:1 student:teacher ratios, an English-speaking co-teacher in every classroom, and the Free school model from Finland, home of the world’s top-rated education system. These guys are really trying hard.

So, I felt a bit uplifted to see VR in their toolkit. Every kid gets a cheap Chinese headset and a box of books that have accompanying VR content to bring the lessons to life. Kids use it at home, and the hope is that the tech makes the learning more engaging and helps kids care about and remember their lessons better. I have high hopes.

After a relatively tech-free year it’s so great to see some of the things I’ve been doing actually catching on.

Technology in South Africa

Johannesburg / Cape Town / Soweto

First, a bit of background that I think is helpful

A Zimbabwean explained to me that the US has a strategic interest in South Africa. I gather that it’s easier for the US Navy to sail aircraft carriers around Cape Town if there are not enemy missiles pointed from Cape Town out to sea. Given this strategic interest, I’m surprised to see that the entrepreneurs in South Africa are Indian and Chinese rather than American. Why don’t we do more business investment in South Africa? Maybe we are waiting for the government to get a bit more trustworthy, since President Zuma had been stealing all the money for many years now. If the government gets more trustworthy there, maybe this will change.

South African culture is vastly different from the US. It’s tribal. It’s still really, really racist, as black-white tensions have not disappeared since Apartheid was abolished over 25 years ago. The government is super corrupt at all levels, which has been really damaging for the people. It’s complicated, and too much (and too off-topic) to get into here. Just keep in mind: Johannesburg or Cape Town may look a bit like an American City, but it’s really quite different there.

I interviewed people as we traveled across South Africa. Here are a few things I have learned from them:

The iPhone is too expensive for most people here

Largely people are Android users.

Most villagers can’t afford cell data

They use SIM cards (call / text) only.

In Johannesburg many people own more than one phone

Why? Mistresses. One phone for each mistress — it is easier to keep affairs separated that way.

There are traditional affairs, and then there are the new ones enabled by the internet

Blesserfinder is an online “dating” site where middle-aged men pick up poor girls from the slums to be their “girlfriend” for a year or two or three until the girls are pregnant or their “blessers” are otherwise done with them. A young woman might just really want that iPhone, and that fancy bag, of that fancy dress. With unemployment for youth hovering over 50% it’s easy to imagine that people may see few ways to get out of poverty.

I heard a lot of stories about how hard it is for young women in South Africa, the country with the highest incidence of rape in the world and world’s 4th highest incidence of AIDS. Blessers are a uniquely sad example of how social media enables old-fashioned trades like prostitution to flourish online, and how widespread economic and education gaps here lead to the web supporting different (and more desperate) priorities and choices than we are used to at home.

There are very, very few black entrepreneurs in South Africa

Thabo, a middle-class black South African from a Johannesburg township explained it to me like this: black people don’t want to see other black people succeed in business. If there are two businesses, and one is run by a white person, all the black people will go to the white business. Why? They don’t like seeing a neighbor succeeding because it makes it obvious that they are failing; they would rather see them fail. The lack of black entrepreneurs has left a leadership vacuum that is being filled by Indian and Chinese immigrants. While these businesses are mostly involved in manufacturing, real estate, and trade right now, in the future we may see internet entrepreneurship in South Africa coming from Indian and Chinese business people.

Phone calls and mobile payments are key applications for mobile phone users

EcoCash is the most popular way to send money – it uses SMS dial codes for authentication and works without a data plan. Small business owners can become currency exchangers and take a small commission for converting EcoCash payments into hard currency. Ecocash was described to me as a rare success story of a black African entrepreneur (in this case, from Zimbabwe) making a positive difference in the community, and creating a successful business. Everyone uses it.

 

Technology in Zimbabwe


A traditional Zimbabwe villager’s kitchen has no technology in it.

Victoria Falls / Two rural villages outside vic falls

In the villages people lead simple lives, often with limited access to fuel, water, and food. People are subsistence farmers living largely on corn mash with occasional vegetables and meat a couple times a month, perhaps. Life is hard here. Even basic technologies like electricity and on-demand fuel do not exist here.


High tech for an African homestead: this bio-digester turns cow poop into methane for cooking, so that young girls don’t have to forage for wood 2 hours each day.

We installed a bio-digester in one family’s home so they could produce methane gas for cooking from decomposing cow dung. This is a lifestyle-changer for them, because the young women in the family will typically spend hours a day scavenging firewood to cook, and then have to breathe tons of dirty smoke while they cook. In contrast to the simple living in the rural areas, more successful villagers may have a solar cell or two on their homestead for electric lighting and to charge cell phones. A phone may be shared among family or village members.

EcoCash, an e-banking service that requires only a basic call/text plan is big here – actually it was invented here. People’s plans typically provide phone+text services only. People are using their phones for money transfers, crop harvest information, and business. Weather forecasts are not used.

Some wealthier people own a nokia for reliability in the bush, and a smartphone for being connected in the city. It is a familiar story for people with poor connectivity. People wondered why there was not better data service in the bush.

I wondered why data services are so expensive, after seeing such low prices in Cambodia. Could internet services be cheap and ubiquitous? Whomever figures this out first will make a lot of money, and change the economy permanently.

I spent a while speaking to a young Zim woman who had a 2012 Nokia Windows phone and she lamented that the new phones are less reliable and harder to use than the old Nokia s40 devices. She missed the old Hardware buttons, durability and battery life of the candybar s60 or s40 nokias. She owns a windows phone and loves the good camera on it, but none of the key apps like Instagram, WhatsApp and Facebook were updated, so she felt left out. She wanted Android just to have current apps (FB, whatsapp, instagram) but didn’t want the OS software to change every year.

I suspect a beautifully designed, ruggedized, affordable android phone with good OS would go a long way here. There are ruggedized phones out there, but they are ugly, and usability of affordable Android phones is reportedly awful. A business opportunity for one of the big tech companies, perhaps?

Technology in Kenya

Many Maasai warrior wear digital watches next to traditional beadwork. This man’s Nokia 810 and Android phone are tucked beneath his robes as he cleans his teeth with a traditional toothbrush tree.

Nairobi / Lewa – Maasai villages / Mara North – Maasai villages

Life in Africa revolves around community, with hierarchy in this order: family (starting with the eldest male), village, tribe. Everything is tribal. A tribe can be thousands of people, like the Zulu or Maasai. This underlies most societal structures from governments to families in schools.

This Nairobi shantytown houses over 300,00o Nigerians

Many people here are very poor – the shantytowns in Nairobi are huge, for example there are 300,000+ people in one shantytown. People choose to live there because it is very cheap, e.g. $50/month. TV dishes dot the roofs of these shantytowns, as this has become affordable enough to enable local businesses to install and support them. TV services are not cheap though – something like $20-30 / month for service, a cost equal to a month’s food budget. I wonder if the internet may enter many people’s homes via these TV providers, since infrastructure already exists.

Maasai live a really traditional life. Digital wrist watches are worn. Cell phones are carried (and shared) but used seldomly. To share phones, people swap SIM cards. Each person has their own SIM and they change it out, sometimes sharing a phone in a family or village. This requires taking out the battery, etc, so a simpler way to swap SIMs could be useful for them.

People use their phones to send money in Kenya. Some are still exchanging airtime minutes from carriers to send money, and many use M-Pesa for financial transactions. M-Pesa charges about 1% transaction fee, and the money exchanger (usually a small business entrepreneur at a local market) charges another 2% commission to do an exchange into a fiat currency. There is some interest in cryptocurrency here but no reported uptake yet.

Farmers use phone calls for crop/cow pricing. Weather reports are not important to the people I spoke to. Surprising.

Cameraphones are useful for staying connected to family who are far away. They are hard for the Maasai to get, since there is no handset distribution in rural areas. To get one, they have to give cash to a friend who will buy one in Nairobi (a 10 hour drive away) and bring it back.

Nokia phones such as the 810 are popular in the bush, but they don’t do internet. Popular android phones from Tecno, sell online for $75 for the handset and last 1-3 years. One local told me they can be found for as little as $10. However, utility is limited by the relatively expensive data plans here: data required to watch YouTube the way we do at home is $0.50 / day, about half of a daily food budget. So, people are very sparing with their data usage. WhatsApp may be cheaper than SMS plans, so people may get a prepaid plan for $2 and stretch it to last 2 weeks for WhatsApp messaging only. Unlike Cambodia which has very cheap data plans, the cost of data services in Nigeria do not match the local economics, so adoption and innovation of internet services are very limited. 

Technology in Egypt

Nile River (Luxor to Aswan) / Dahab, Sinai / Cairo

In most ways, Egyptians use technology like people from other modern and cosmopolitan developing countries such as India. Infrastructure is not great, but it exists. Prices are not great, but they are suitable for the middle class. So, people have smartphones and use the most popular apps like WhatsApp, Instagram and Facebook.

The country is famous for the “Facebook revolution” in 2012 when millions of young people organized on Facebook to protest then-president Mubarak. In response to the protests, Mubarak was forced by the Army to step down. Democratic elections led to the Muslim Brotherhood gaining power. MB is a right wing extreme Islamist organization that quickly tried to institute Islamic laws, change the constitution and grab power. The public protested, leading to the replacement of their leaders by senior members from the Egyptian Army, who currently hold power. People seem to both respect and fear President el-Sisi, a man who is both described as someone who is fighting corruption, and who is building prisons to lock up all his opponents. It was not clear to what extent Egyptians live under a military dictatorship right now, but comments from various people indicated that freedom of speech does not exist. This is an interesting contrast to comments that social media allows for the exchange of ideas, news, and information so that people can self-organize without the cooperation of traditional media channels. Activitsts seem to be skating on thin ice. 

Democracy does not come easily to a former dictatorship. Two people (one native Cairo, one long-term expat) independently told me that “Egypt is not ready for democracy” because Egyptians are not educated enough to vote sensibly. Of the two, it was the European-educated Cairo resident who explained to me that people don’t know what “freedom” means. According to her, people think it means “I get things for free” when in fact it means people have to all work towards collaborative self-governance. I noticed such a gap across Africa: democratic elections exist but people don’t know how to make democracy work. Governments are authoritarian and often corrupt.

Literacy is an endemic current issue which limits many aspects of life, not just government. Limits in literacy also affect technology adoption, since most modern technologies – and especially the most affordable ones – are based on reading and writing, and thus require basic literacy to be useful. Services like YouTube are widely popular because they can reach even illiterate people, but using them costs more, and with lack of education usually comes a lack of money to afford higher bandwidth services.

Technology in Cambodia

An elderly man sits on the ground on the side of a dirt road and types on a laptop. YouTube logos top the 4G plan ads along the roadsides, as if Google sponsored the major highways here. Cell networks are surprisingly decent here compared to other developing nations I’ve visited in Asia. People are starting new businesses and taking up new hobbies, but censorship runs deep and internet adoption is sporadic. Some observations of Cambodia:

At a computer lab at a foreign-funded after-school center, 400 children learn basic computing skills every 6 months. Due to lack of time, they don’t get much deeper than the basics of MS Word, Excel and Powerpoint, but I pointed the teacher to the Kahn Academy and explained that there is a lot of good free educational content online. We had a conversation about what should come first: “computing skills (MS suite)” or “internet skills (Chrome+Google).” I argued for the latter – my kids’ first computer was a Chromebook – but he had never looked at it that way and perhaps didn’t know how that would lead to marketable skills for his students. I pointed out that at least that way the ESL children could listen to more native English speakers on YouTube or khanacademy.org. He seemed unconvinced but interested to see if things were really free.

A YouTube power user nestled a tech rig among rural rice paddies. This twenty year old lives in a traditional stilted house in rural Cambodia. Like all farmers we met in the country here, his house is prepared for the annual floods by situating the floor a couple meters above ground, and they are surrounded by their family farm. Unlike some others, his house is on the electrical grid so he has enough electricity to power a laptop and speaker system. He proudly shows me a slick korean cell phone with HD cameras and his YouTube channel, replete with dozens of videos of him and his band playing traditional Cambodian music on xylophones. The family puts his cheap Singaporean laptop and speakers into service to play pop music, and he laments that the machine is too underpowered to do video editing very well.

On Christmas night, we bump into a tuk-tuk driver with a karaoke party coach. He pulls an android tablet off the handlebars, turns on the data connection, opens YouTube and tells us to pull up any song we like. After the six of us sit down in the two facing bench seats, he hands us microphones and we drive off with lights flashing and music blaring. I guess 4G is good enough here for the enterprising entrepreneur to drive tourists in style!

But be careful what you say online! The locals told me that if you criticize the government you can get your accounts shut down, or worse. One guide’s friends will travel to other countries like South Korea to speak up about the Cambodian government. While the internet may be lauded in the west as a fountainhead of democracy, it need not be all that. Fear tactics can go a long way, as every terrorist and totalitarian regime knows. Here, the internet is becoming a tool for commerce and education, with free speech and access to media easily put aside by a communist state.

Some ways people use (and don’t use) technology around the world

So far we’ve been in the United States, New Zealand, Mongolia, India, Bhutan, two islands of Indonesia (Bali and Flores), four regions of Australia, and countless airports. We have seen different people using technology and have spoken to that least one person in depth about it in each country. And you can learn something by looking at people. Let me tell you some of the things I’ve noticed.

First of all “first world” seems to apply to Internet as much as anything. I had sort of gotten used to the idea that people are glued to their phones all the time whether it is to socialize, to learn, to optimize their travel schedule, or to be entertained. Not so outside of the US, it seems.

Namaste.
An Indian builder greets us with his phone conveniently tucked between his palms, a sight I saw often seen in India where people hold their phones ready-at-hand.

Internet service does not exist everywhere, and it does not always work. And connectivity alone does not make a country internet-native. As the Kiwis say, they live 20 years in the past. So even though Google Maps works flawlessly, not that many people depend on the internet the way we do at home. In the other places I’ve been, the internet does not always work, or even exist in the same form as we have at home, because unreliable or horribly slow connections really change what you can use the internet for, and how you will end up using it.  

Some challenges

  1. The internet doesn’t work very well most places. Many of our web services don’t work when this is the case (e.g. many Google services like Photos and Hangouts). Personally, I have had to migrate to WhatsApp, SMS, and Instagram just to have tools that work reliably.
  2. The only place that people seem to have their eyes glued to their phones is the airport. Maybe this is because people have more time or more money or come from bigger cities, or perhaps they are bored or lonely being away from home (or all of the above).
  3. Phones started out as communication devices and seem to still be that for most people in most places. There are some additional utilities, such as in Mongolia where they rely on cell phones for weather forecast which are quite helpful to the farmers. But mostly they are about being connected to people.
  4. When I have asked people what they use their phones for, internet services are often not mentioned. For example, a man in India told me lots of things which were mostly about using Facebook (although he never mentioned Facebook by name). He didn’t mention any Google services, which surprised me (as a former Googler). So I asked specifically about Google and Google Maps and things like that. The man I was speaking to said, “oh yeah of course – Uncle Google! That’s what we call it – uncle Google knows everything and yes we know Google Maps to and use that a lot.” This attitude was pretty typical: people focus on what they are for, not what the tools or networks are called, or who provides them.
  5. Most of the places we have been to are not iPhone-heavy cultures. Attitudes about iPhone range from not caring, to wanting an iPhone and not being able to afford it, to assuming that we own iPhones even though they have handled our phones directly to take our photographs. They seem to largely be status symbols at this stage, since people can’t tell the difference between a Pixel and an iPhone.My guide in Flores had two phones: a Nokia candy bar phone for calls and SMS, and a Samsung S5 for WhatsApp. He also uses the S5 for Google photos (whose client-server model is much too complicated for him to understand), and FB messenger (which brings home new business) and occasional demos of Google maps, when he wants to “take his uncle to Europe,” or see where a client lives. He has no real idea that Google makes Android, and he uses email and Facebook too. But it’s basically his WhatsApp phone, in his thoughts. What’s the most important thing to people? Other people.

People are interested in other people

The rest of the world seems to have stronger sense of community than we have at home, at least in the old-fashioned sense of community where community means that you live with other people and you talk to them all the time. Community means you get in each others’ business, in each others’ ways, and rely on each other deeply. This is true in New Zealand (which is a little bit more affectionate than England), and it was also true in India where people are almost literally living on top of each other everywhere you go. It was true in Bhutan, in Indonesia, and in Australia. Because of this, in some places like Flores, people spend little or no time maintaining relationships with people who are far away.

Tools like Facebook and Instagram take on a different role when they are used more for coordination of the next face to face encounter, rather than relationship maintenance (as we do in the US). In a culture where families live together and people require face-to-face communication to make important decisions, technology is a way to (at best) arrange your next encounter with someone important, or (at worst) to get in touch with people who have made the unfortunate choice to move too far away talk to be part of your face to face community. In short, it’s all about the people.

Technology for a traveling family

I’ve been trying to notice how people use technology around the world. But before I talk about what other people do, l want to talk about our use of technology on this trip. We have been quite dependent upon it. Our books come in the form of four Kindles. Our vegertainment comes in the form of four cell phones loaded with games (mostly 1010!), music (all offline) and YouTube (downloaded sit com scenes, squishy slime videos, and cooking videos). The rest of our academics happens with three laptops which we share. I got tired of not having a keyboard so I bought a tiny Bluetooth keyboard in Mongolia to go with my phone, because I’m too stubborn to buy a fourth laptop and carry that much more weight with us around the world this year. We can share.

Doing academics in the Beijing airport. A good place to learn some math and catch up on writing.

Even though I’m often told by Anika that “Everyone has one,” we have been reluctant to get the girls phones for years now, promising them they can have one when they turn 25. We broke from tradition on this trip so they could have decent pocket cameras. It seems that today’s cell phones take pictures almost as well as a pocket digital camera, and they are a whole lot easier to use for saving and sharing the pictures. Plus, they come with YouTube, music, Google and various other things like video games and flash card apps. We’ve forbidden the kids from using social networks like Instagram despite many pleas and persuasive essays (which were actually quite persuasive) because I think these services are just too addictive. As a designer, I see a slot machine every time a social feed is down-swiped in search of an update, and as a parent I’m not ready to argue with my kids about the line between self-control and addiction. That said, Rachel and I got on the Instagram train for this trip, and I have to say that has been an easy way to quickly share a few photos and keep a minimal connection to friends back home. A two-sided coin.

We’re relying on lots of offline content this year, such as many books we photographed before leaving home, and a few android apps that work well without an internet connection. It’s a relief when the internet actually works reliably and quickly, and it’s taken me over a month to finish this post because I just have not had a reliable internet connection for that long. Who would have guessed that I would have to come to Hobart, Tasmania to find one – even major Australian cities like Melbourne only deliver the equivalent of a 56k baud connection most of the time. It’s like going back to 1998!

p.s. Speaking of Instagram, a quick aside to give credit to Facebook, whose folks seem to have figured out that the rest of the world doesn’t have a good internet connection and wants to stay connected anyway. Most Google services are woefully unreliable in the parts of the world where 3G comes and goes. So far this year we have come to expect that LTE may not exist. For everyone we have met, the internet is sort of like boiled water: it exists sometimes but you can’t count on it so you hope for the best and do what you can to get through the day. More about that later….