Mongolia and India

The world is a kind place. In the past week I’ve traveled from Mongolia to India, from the Gobi Desert to Indian Jungle via busy Asian capital cities. I’ve traveled from snow to blistering heat on the same day, and amidst these contrasts met some of the kindest and most welcoming people I can remember. Perhaps these lands of extremes help to amplify people’s humanity. I’d like to share some things I’ve learned.

Mongolia and India are both huge! But Mongolia is among the most sparsely populated countries in the world with only 2.7 million people, and India is one of the most densely populated countries with nearly 1.3 billion people. Both have long histories. India reaches back thousands of years in its capital alone, and yesterday we stood inside Hindu temples that have been standing for over 1000 years. Mongolia traces its origins back to Chinnghis Khan who united the clans of the steppe almost 800 years ago. Flanking either side of the Himalaya mountains, they countries are close and united in several ways, and worlds apart in others.

Mongolia is cold. Three days ago we awoke to snow and icicles on the ground, as fall was coming. The winter would bring chills of -60 degrees c and nomads would weather the winter with their livestock as they have for generations. Meanwhile, In Delhi, we were greeted the next day to 34 degree weather, a temperate change from the 44 degree summer we missed. The temperature seems to impact everything from culture to population density to clothing and transport and city smells. Do you know cold kills the smells? And lots of people and humidity amplify them? Ulaan Baatar was cold but not so stinky, dominated primarily by the coal smoke. Delhi was dominated by…everything you have ever smelled before in your life, turned up to 11 all at once. Where the Mongolian Steppe demands shelter from the freezing and dust storms, the India Jungle demands shelter from the heat and sun.

Food is a big part of life in both places. Mongolia is a meat lover’s place. Five treasure animals keep people alive: camels, horses, cattle, sheep, and goats form the foundation of life there. In India, plants thrive. The country has the most fertile land on the planet, and with the large population, plants are the major sustenance. The Hindus, who don’t eat meat, have developed the best vegetarian food I’ve ever enjoyed, and we’ve been here only two days! I may eat myself into looking like a dosa!

But in both places hospitality thrives. The people are warm, inviting, and quite genuine. While both countries welcome western culture (and Americans like us who are interested to learn more), they have proud cultures and histories of their own which reign supreme. In both places people have greeted us with smiles, food, and handshakes, although the customs differ. In Mongolia, people shake your hand after bumping in to you, a quick “no offense meant.” In India, people shake your hand just for being there, “thank you for coming to my country, and welcome!”

Both countries are still developing, and are not super rich. But they have rich people and rich natural resources which are being used. Mongolia has the world’s larges gold and copper mines, and is a major source of other metals and minerals. India hosts the world’s largest diamond mine. Both are rich in agriculture and support their people with a high degree of autonomy. Their lands make both countries strong.

My hope is to get to know some people in both countries a bit better, over time. This may happen in days or years to come, but I am open. Both lands seem to brim with hospitality and possibility, and have so much to teach me.

how mongolia is different from India

  • populated / not populated
  • colorful / spare
  • humid / dry
  • people shake your hand to say hi / people shake your hand to say sorry
  • vegetables rule / meat rules
  • plant farmers / meat farmers
  • families live in the same home for 9 generations, or 400 years / families are nomadic and move around (although in fairness land rights are inherited so maybe that’s similar)
  • it is hot! / it is snowing!
  • south of the himalaya / north of the himalaya
  • celebrates diversity / celebrates unity (e.g. chingghis khan)
  • 2 seasons / 4 seasons
  • jungle / desert
  • dominantly religious (80% hindu) / 57% atheist
  • you have to look for the animals who are hiding / the animals fly to you
  • super strong smells / not so smelly, but rather quite dusty
  • very modernized / very traditional and not so developed

how India and Mongolia are the same

  • people are very welcoming and kind
  • we have had wonderful guides in both places
  • long histories
  • both have suffered multiple invasions and occupations due to the wealth of their lands (india: agriculture / mongolia: metals and trade routes)
  • smoggy capital cities
  • food is rich and diverse, but healthy and filling. both have strong culinary traditions and have not been overwhelmed by western tastes.
  • for both, the US is not the major cultural influence. India seems to have a very strong cultural identity of its own, as does mongolia.
  • both cultures seem strongly connected to their land
  • both are in asia
  • multiple languages and cultures thrive in both countries. there is an appreciation and tolerance for the diversity, amidst common goals to unify people around language and civic identity.
  • both capital cities are completely overloaded with people. there is smog, traffic, chaos at times, and people spend more time commuting than they wished. Did both cities’ urban planners ignore demographics? were demographics wrong?
  • in both places, natural resources are being actively used. mongolia has huge copper and gold mines. india has huge diamond mines and poaching of mega fauna like tigers (who we failed to spot today).

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